SPArKy_Dave

It's a vacuum power valve - opens up another passage, when low engine vacuum - ie WOT.

They often go bad and stop holding a vacuum.

Test by removing and sucking on it (or use portable vacuum tool), to check it holds a vacuum.

Replacements are available on ebay for about $70 I believe?

The plastic is orange coloured on the ebay ones.

Fuelmiser used to be the only replacement option for the vacuum valve (aftermarket), but not sure if they still do them?

Fuelmiser also were the only (aftermarket) gasket kits available, but there's a few others now.

'Engineered' aftermarket suspension arm failure - for an F-truck chassis in QLD -

https://www.facebook.com/SouthernChassisWorks/posts/934191238502847

@deankxf -

Biggest issue will be the missing sheet-metal floor hump, in ur XF.

They're weld in/part of the floor, with the later XE's and XF onwards.

Digital dash is the easiest swap - just need the correct oil pressure sensor, and ur good.

Chambered (super turbo) mufflers are a nice happy medium, IMO.

5 hours ago, XF EDDIE said:

@SPArKy_DaveI pulled the EGR and she fkin ran! I'll disconnect the rest of the system and let you know how it goes

 

Nice work, easy fix!

Yeah, low vacuum would've been the giveaway.

Undoing the EGR gave it an exhaust... granted it'd be breathing through a straw,

but fine for idling.

If it's on LPG, blockage could be from lean/backfire's, etc. Thoughts, @deankxf?

@XF EDDIE if ur in Victoria, OzFalcon has club rego accreditation also.

Send me a PM, if u want to do that.

15 hours ago, XF EDDIE said:

Just wondering can a hall effect out of a tfi dizzy be put in a est one?

Yes I believe they all use the same sensor.

Only the metal chopper wheel is different, so re-use ur carby one.

Somewhere on the forum is an EST tutorial, showing captures of the EST timing maps, diagnostic codes, etc

8 hours ago, XF EDDIE said:

Hey fellas. I've got several snags with the biggest being the engine not running. It's an unleaded 250 xflow with est. The closest I can get it to running is when I hold it at wide open throttle and even then it barely gets to idle rpm and spits out of the carby.

If it won't run at all unless held at WOT, suggests either massive over-fuelling, exhaust blockage, or timing related.

A temp gravity-fed fuel supply will work fine.

Put a vacuum gauge on it, check ur firing order, from cyl no.1 at TDC (153624).

If a suspected exhaust blockage - undo the EGR pipe/s into the manifold, and see if anything improves?

Wild-card -

a lazy/failing hall effect sensor in the distributor can still give a strong spark, but with incorrect timing.

What's the vehicle history - did u buy it non-running?

11 hours ago, Nato of Falcons said:

Guys,

So the thermostat goes this way yeah?

Ignore the 'MotoRad' wording... that's just the brand name of thermostat, which Tridon re-box's from India.

The spring part, goes into the cyl head.

The dome shape, faces the radiator as-per @deankxf's helpful picture.

What I would recommend though, is test the new thermostat in a pot of boiling water first,

using a thermometer to check it opens/closes correctly.

I never quite trust aftermarket parts these days - especially suspension components (see @deankxf).

@Crebe, the engine/gearbox should be angled downhill to the rear of the vehicle, by around 3 degrees.

Check the angle, with a carpenters degree wheel from Bunnings.

Aussie PBR or Chinese Protex... the master cyl fluid pressure/volume ratio's need to be correct,

or they won't provide correct application at the wheels.

Drum rear vs Disc rear master cylinders have different internal ratio's.

When working correctly, XF brakes (incl drum rears) will almost stand the car on it's nose.

I've experienced both good AND bad XF brakes back to back.

There are tubular upper arms available I think, which give a Shelby drop, without drilling new holes.

Wow, what a pain!
 

I've had gasket failure happen, mostly with 3spd BW Auto trans pans.

I usually spray cork gaskets with Hylomar sealant,

but found if I coat it too much without drying properly first, the gasket goes soft and breaks

My factory XB service manual says 7-9ftlb for the smaller pan bolts,

and 11-13ftlb for the larger ones at the end.

Tough part is, those tan interiors (an EA colour) were only used in 88-90 XF commercials.

As most commercials had a hard life, there's not many good parts around anymore.

It took me almost 2yrs, to locate a non-cracked tan dash pad for my XF SVO project ute,

costing around $300 from memory!

Big difference between the old (transgold?) and new (Pioneer?) mounts!

Do u still have a factory Ford mount, to compare metal thickness?

4 hours ago, Crebe said:

How the hell do brake parts that are new be crap? How do they make it into the country. Dont buy Protex would be my recomendation! 

Buy from china/india for 0.50c each, put in shipping container.

Ship to Australia.

Unload shipping container, sell to plebs for 10,000% markup?

To my knowledge, there's no real regulation of suspension/brake/general auto parts here in Aus, so they don't much care...

Even a 50% failure rate = still making money, it's very much buyer beware IMO.

(case-in-point - see @deankxf's experience with suspension components)

Choices seem to be the following -

Mackay - A1140

Kelpro - MT8095

Pioneer - 602257

Transgold - MNT836

I've also read, u can get new rubber vulcanised to the old metal pieces.

Those new mounts look pretty bad, in comparison to ur originals.

The angle of the upper tabs, is way different!

What brand are they?

ie - Mackay, Kelpro etc

The top pressed metal part of those engine mounts, looks a bit thin tbh.

Do you have any original mounts to compare with?

2 hours ago, deankxf said:

never seen it, in at least 50 cars i've poked around with(including at wreckers)

The USA Mustang saddles had rubber pads from factory I think.

It's a thing for some recent aftermarket spring saddles - suppliers source Chinese repro mustang parts probably?

13 hours ago, iamaelephant said:

 looks like the spring has popped partly out of the spring seat.

Can u post a picture of the spring, and height that the vehicle is sitting at?

Also the bump-stop clearance.

That will let us help u more.

TTS010, is XD/XE Cleveland - (XD/XE gauges use lower resistance senders)

U need to run an XF temp sender, for the XF dash cluster

I think around 60ohms, = mid-way on XF temp gauges, and 35ohms = Max/Hot

Tridon TTS037 should be the one u need. (thread/post terminal)

OR

VDO 320.093 (OEM)

OR

FuelMiser CTS144

Undo the thread adaptor from ur old sensor, and re-use it (Crossflow 1/8 - 27NPT to Cleveland 3/8 - 18NPT)

2 hours ago, deankxf said:

could also be POINT BOUNCE,

https://mooregoodink.com/minimizing-spark-scatter-in-the-vintage-race-engine/

There's only two brands I've seen -

Loctite (my preferred one)

and Permatex, which I've not had much success with.

If it's a chinese knockoff 'PBR' master cyl made by Protex,

I've read numerous people advising not to use them, as they can be problematic.

Better to re-seal/sleeve the original PBR unit IMO.

If it's an aftermarket one, it could be leaking?

Watch it doesn't leak onto the engine bay paint!

It's the little things, that make all the difference!