SPArKy_Dave

They look silly on XY's. But they look pretty awesome on XD's.

Sounds just like a head gasket to me, unfortunately. Had that very thing, and those very symptoms happen to me twice, both with XG's funnily enough. One was due to substandard materials being used. The other time, was due to dodgy workmanship when replacing a head gasket - a soft cylinder head, from previously overheating. The fire rings and gasket material, often corrode away, between the water passages and cylinders at no.1 and no.6.

Definitely worth checking. If it's auto, also check the transmission engine braking is working properly. The C4 clutch can sometimes drag in the transmisson - causing slight issues/slugishness etc. The main effect, is loss of engine braking when going down hills and such.

Copy and paste the IMG photobucket link, into the page on here wherever you want the pic to appear.

XG's are 10degrees BTDC, but I know EL's (and possibly XH's) are 0degrees BTDC base timing.

My Apollo Blue XB GS 6cyl Panel van, still had mostly original paint, and I could see above the 'Falcon 500' badge on the fender, the outline of a large '4.1' sticker - same font, as the '351' stickers on the GT guards. Ford did some interesting things, so I too am keen to see the sticker.

What about the IAT sensor? Also, I would be picky about what O2 sensor I used. NTK is supposed to be the most accurate for the OHC falcons. Some of the others have been known to have poor tolerances out of the box. I would also suss out the Fuel Pressure Reg.

Dodgy ignition module or hall effect sensor throwing the timing out, and/or a faulty IAT sensor causing the same. EFI Windsors are bad for it. (assuming of course it's an EFI Windsor) In my experience, they'll get up to 110degrees, but won't actually overheat. Just run very hot.

I only know of a place in Moorabbin somewhere. Prolly too far for you.

Just realised those ebay ones are sec/hand mirrors too. Wow.

Look on RS components. Almost everything generic is available on there mail order. Ford specific plugs are usually available from the USA - if you can work out the plug part number.

Not anymore it seems no. Just look around for old stock of aftermarket ones - at wreckers and similar parts places. The last aftermarket ones were a bit poorly moulded, and they never did another batch. Same with the aftermarket XF sedan tail lights.

Just grind off the 'H', and the 'P'.

Blocked bleed nipples. E-series are bad for it, especially if the dust caps have been missing for ages.

You could start with a brand new Arrow or Buttermore Cleveland block, and avoid the risk of wasting $$ on another un-rebuildable engine.

Will he do a sample? People might be more keen, if they saw pic's of one actually out of the mould maybe?

The haltech dude needs to get with the times LOL! My pro'sKit crimp tool, has selectable dies. It crimps both parts of those things in one go. Productivity FTW! My nesco crimper, does phone plugs, RJ45 data plugs, F-connector aerial sockets, and everything in between. and I have one of those rotatable dies crimping tools, for 10mm to 240mm cable - The ones which stand about knee height.

Check that your tank breather solenoid is working, and that the one way valve is installed the correct way round. Many of this era falcon, came from the factory with the valve back to front - causing pressurisation of the tank. I proved the theory (and solved the issue) with my EL wagon. There was actually a factory recall/TSB, for the 5ltr EB/ED falcons, to fix that very problem. XH's have a vented cap from factory.

New pistons were used. I wasn't going to re-use those pitted things. The wheel bearing pre-tension was set without the brake calipers even on the car. Also, it was doing the thing, before I did any work to the braking system.

Done and done! I reckon we need to make you an OzFalcon official..... keeping me on my toes and all. Vote1 - Gerg for admin.

Got a weird one with the EF Fairmont wags. At really low speeds, coming to a stop when parking and turning the wheels, it occasionally feels like the ABS is applying. The brake pedal pulses slightly, and you get a groaning noise, with a sound like a gate spring extending/contracting. Was hoping the brake caliper rebuild and fluid flush, would fix the issue... but it hasn't. Anyone experienced that phenomenon before?

Our F250, has a C6 behind the 302 Windsor from factory. Mmmm...... 1000hp F-truck...

XG's (and a few really late XF's), are the only ones which had torx screws on the hinges... (XH went back to the 13mm bolts like XD-XF.) XG's and XH's, have removable hinge pin's from factory. The XD-XF hinge pins had the peined over edge, unless they've been rebushed - using the later XG-XH hinge pins. To avoid stripping the torx screws, remove the inner fender plastic shield, then use an impact driver/rattle gun with the correct torx bit in it. That will loosen them, without damaging the screws.

Being an original matching numbers 6cyl, I would assume yeah, it's a BW35. A pic of it, will soon tell the tale, in any case.

Ahhh, the good old italian tuneup. Blew those cobwebs right out of there........