bear351c

Could use Flat tops, closed chamber heads, and 3 head gaskets. LMAO.......

Seriuously, solid copper head gaskets ain't cheap, but, offset that to all the other work you might need. Could get a 0.100" gasket made to adjust compression ratio. (Will prob alter your rocker geometry as well.)

GoOd poInT....... 

Git after it, bruther.....

If you're using any old parts, make sure you flush out all the mineral oil, first, Then add the Synthetic. I've heard they dont play well together.

May be wrong,

have been before,

many times,

another beer? ,

yeah, Cheers mate...... 

......and a small block.!  LOL.  Ever tried to pick one up.!

You can get one to fit out of a JEEP, but the pitch is slightly different, and it'll need changing every 6 months. Cant remember where I read that... 

Most power steer fluid is just ATF.  Maybe check on a HOLDEN site for Astra specification list. ?

Let us know how you get on, thinking about the same for a future project.

Could cut the torsion springs off, and use gas struts out of an NF Fairlane boot..??  

GT shops, Rare Spare, etc   have the FMX driven gears for your diff ratio, but, I got the "right" coloured one for my 3.5 gears, but speedo was still out by 20 kays, so had the speedo recalibrated. All good. 

Part # SDG2 and SG17, 18, 19   at GT Ford Performance.

Yep, always do the same..... the weight of the 'box, helps get the right angle into the engine bay. LMAO........

Yup, had one for years. Still chirps the tyres. 

Heavy as all hell though.! 

$880 bucks...!!!!   FFS.  I've seen Scat cranks for a grand.!  

........waiting for a bite from @gerg 

Cool.

302's aren't very economical (in my humble opinion) as they are basically a de-stroked 351. The Yanks have never even heard of a 302 Cleveland. Mind you, they only had the Clevo for a few years, 71-73 Mustangs, F -trucks, etc... We had them from XW to XE, basically 1970-1984 ish.  

Let us know what you decide, do a little research, and add up some dollars.  Keen to see the old girl, if you have any pics.?

PC314 Dynotec cam.?  Very standard.  

Budget, ....hmmm....   302 rods in a 351, needs special pistons. ACL used to make them, not sure anymore.  Been a while since I've seen anyone use them, nowadays if you're after a torque monster, stroker kits are the way to go. $$$$

With a high compression ratio, you may have to run 98 Premium to stop it pinging. Up to $1.80 a litre..! 

New cam means new lifters, more money.

Rings are cheap and easy.  Buy a good standard volume oil pump, and double row timing chain.

Not trying to put you off, just think about where you want to spend your limited budget. A fresh, slightly warm cam in a 351 with stock crank and rods, will give you thousands of trouble free kays, with flat tops, and 302 heads. Spend some money on the heads, EG: valve guides, stellite seats, double springs etc..... 

Welcome on board, by the way. Good to see you have interest in an old Effie. 

3 hours ago, gregaust said:

No , not at all .. With aluminium heads weight is basically same as an all iron clevo.. 400HP lol , not hard to make 6-700.

Really all you need is a block , by time you get a good set of rods , might as well get a crank as well , Hello 500+ cubes   

 

I use the factory bells and C4's   The factory bells are for Pan fill type cases 

Totally agree, mate. Just saying 400 with iron heads, intake etc, and heavy. 

Hell if I could afford it, I'd drop some ally heads on the Clevo. 

Yeah, always wanted a 429/460. Drop in some 10:1 pistons, and 400 lazy HP.  

Big, heavy old lump over the front wheels, though. 

Maybe.  I'd say it just 'landed' somewhere between the hub and the caliper, stayed there for 15 years, then fell out when you took it apart.

Each way works fine. Personally, I always use them.  But, when I do an engine build, the very last thing I do at night is run RTV on the "wall" and stick the gasket on there, then leave the manifold sitting on there overnight. Next day, pull the manifold off, make sure you put a dob of goo on the ends/corners where the gasket meets the head, smear along the entire length, and bolt intake on. Never had a leak. 

The RTV just replaces the gasket, so make sure the bead you run is higher than the original cork would be. As Gregaust has said, and Clevo king has demonstrated.

Squirt a bit of oil in the cylinder and retest the compression, if it goes up, it's the rings.

Yeah................ what he said.

Once all the clips are removed, it should come apart. Possibly stuck with age, or some numpty has put Silastic on there to seal them.  If memory serves, Clark rubber has something similar. 

Try and save a small section, if you can, cut it with a blade at 90 degrees to the glass, then take that in and see if they can match the profile., (think its just soft, square foam.) Doubt you'll  ever find a N.O.S seal, or headlight for that matter...... not even made aftermarket anymore, I reckon.

Interesting read, Dave.  So, for all us non-sparky types, what would you recommend for spark plug boots, ignition modules, points cam in a dizzy, internals of an old headlight switch etc etc..

8 hours ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

Silicone grease was also used directly on high voltage CRT anode connectors to prevent or reduce corona.

Dont let Trump know about this.....

If you're after new extractors, be mindful of what you buy. All ebay adverts say "will fit from XY - XE" But, there are some differences, many wont fit without a BFH on one of the tubes.

Some wont fit a C6 or FMX, some interfere with manual steering etc, etc, ..

As James said, the port sizes are way different, so make sure you get the correct 2V or 4V.  Do you have an inlet manifold? should have 4V stamped on it, if it is a 4V. 98% of Clevo's were only 2V. 

The 4V inlet port has roughly the same width of material on top and bottom of the "hole", the 2v on the right, has almost double the thickness on the top of the "hole"

Freakin awesome..!