bear351c

Not sure about the position / location of the bolts.  

Vice grips on the bolt head

Weld an old bolt/nut onto the existing one

Hacksaw/grinding disc

Leave overnight with some penetrating fluid on it (best found is 50/50 Acetone and ATF)

HEAT is always your friend

Do it up a little, undo, do it up, undo slightly more this time, do it up, undo it more again.......

Looks like a Brinnel hardness test gone wrong, as Thom said, and someone didn't use sleeves over the rod bolts when installing the pistons. (Small chatter marks). The crank should be OK if it was in a running engine, it would have failed by now for sure. Just need to make sure there are no sharp edges around the dents, use a 5 or 6 mm drill bit BY HAND, and slower chamfer the 'holes' then linish the journals with some emery tape etc. 

10 hours ago, Crebe said:

Have measured with a electronic ang ll e level and looks to me like the motor points downhill towards the ground to far. Dont have the angles with me but can dig tgem out. Mainly want to know if the XR have a smaller tunnel than XW XY

Normally around 3 degrees as Sparky Dave suggested. Honestly, it can be 2 -5* as long as your diff angle is the same, but opposite direction. stick angle gauge on manifold with carby off, engine fully installed, or transmission shaft hanging out the back of trans, should be angled 3* down, so make sure the diff is 3* up. 

Yes, the holes do land outside the reinforcing on some Falcons. Weld a small tab of steel on so the bolt sits flat, or as @SPArKy_Dave suggested, there are other options available. 

7 hours ago, Panko said:

No I haven’t covered the back of the seat yet. Not entirely sure how I’ll do that yet. But yeah eventually i will make something to tidy the back of the boot up a little.  

Guess you buy one for an XB, and cut it down.?  They are masonite with a bit of foam, or hessian on them, I think.

Looks like the weight of the engine is pushing the 2 mounts in towards each other. When they're bolted in they tend to "hang" spreading apart. As Chestnut said, the aftermarket Clevo sumps can be a bad fit, I've fitted a couple, and had to trim, grind, elongate holes etc.  It's just symptom of the non genuine market. Got an old original sump you can slide in, just to see if it fits better.??

WOW..........   One of the best looking small Fords, built the way YOU wanted it.  The retro seat cover material on the Recaros looks ace.  Did you end up with something to cover the rear of the back seat, form inside the boot.?? Just so you can't see the frame.  Credit to you, mate. Excellent results. 

Would be way cool, and friggin' expensive, if you had 2 big ar$e flat screens on the sides, playing vast amount of stars moving sideways. Give you the feeling that your'e travelling through space. LMAO.

Great work, mate. Should be proud of your achievements.  

Could be points bounce, could be coil, could be vacuum leak, could be timing, could be old fuel, could be spark leads, could be i got no idea what I'm talking about.

Let us know what ya find.....  Love this little Esky.

...........and this one too.!

All depends on what you want the car for.....  3.45 is a good all round ratio for economy and sprint off the line, most Clevo Automatics are 3 speed, (FMX, C4 etc) in XA, XD and similar vehicles. If you plan on going on 1200 kms trips, then you need more of a lower ratio, say 3.00 or even 2.92. The Clevo will be happy at 110km/h with a 3.45, but the revs will be slightly higher, so more fuel used and possibly a lot more noise in the cabin. I'm running 3.55 in my XB, with an FMX, and absolutely love it. But I wouldn;t drive from Perth to Sydney in it. 

Yeah, not convinced.   I did mine last year on the XA, absolute bitch to get the rubber seal in place, while holding the timing cover, lining up the dowel pins, etc..  I sanded off the small lip on the outside of the rubber, (made it thinner) and it went in easier. VERY clean is the key.!  Paint thinners or acetone to remove all oil residue. Silastics/sealants wont stick to oil. Also, aftermarket sumps don't fit the best, prefer old originals.

Dont worry too much about the fitting/terminal, just cut off the spade or whatever on your wiring, and solder on the correct terminal for the sender. Clevo temp sender usually goes in the front of the block, left hand side of the water pump. Sounds like you just need the sender to operate in a different range. @SPArKy_Dave Do you know what Ohms etc might suit..?

FC LTD and other Fairlanes had a "variable rate" power steering box, easy in the carparks, but got firmer as speed increased. Got one in the shed, was thinking about shoving it in my XA. 

The Fc (XD) power steering pumps are different, so none of the bracketry/pulleys fit on my Clevo, so i shelved it for another day....... Or year......

Don't skimp on the cost, buy the Loctite product called literally "Rear view mirror glue" or whatever, It works every time.... Scrape the glass clean, use the primer in the pack, and clean the Ford plate thingy, put your sunvisors down and make sure they don't hit (make it central in other words).  Place the metal plate on the inside of the windscreen, get a mate/wife/girlfriend to mark the outside of the windscreen with a texta or marker. Prime both surfaces, dab on the glue, stick on, Robert's ya Fathers brother. 

Don't heaps of these over the years, never fall off.

Could well be. As Sparky Dave said, you need the Resistor coil, for anything with contact points. Doesn't matter if it's a "coke can" or a T -coil, as long as it has the R after the GT40. 

Progress is still going forward, not backwards, mate.  Will be interested to hear how you get on with the Car Builders underlay, could you put up some pics/info when you get around to it.?  Thinking of getting some for the XA, (which is going real slow too.!)  Sorry to hear the bumpers have crapped out.!  Chinesium chrome plating I'm guessing....

From memory, the shims I used in the Clevo were 0.20" and 0.35"..?   Same rockers.

Nah,  ............. something ain't right. As Dean said, prob uncalibrated tacho. My XB has 3.50 gears, does around 2800 from memory.  Easiest way to tell is download an App to your phone with a HUD (head-up display) uses GPS to give a fairly accurate speed. Could follow a mate in another car at 100 km/h. If you get the speedo recalibrated, take a reading at 60, 80, 100, 120 with your mate on cruise control (or the App) on a straight flat road. Give the numbers to the instrument guy. 

Seen this fella, Ozzy knows a bit about these things.

Definitely a good starting point for extra HP Clevo build. Extra thick casting "pillows" , Solid oil pan rails, etc. To be honest, a little bit over rated IMHO.  You can now make great numbers with a stock block. Balancing is very important for the rotating assembly, (reduces vibration/harmonics) with todays tech,  H beam rods, Ally heads etc... 500 HP Clevos can be built.

Few years ago, I would have jumped at the opportunity to buy a Boss block, Pillow, 4 bolt, but, aftermarket blocks from TMeyer, Arrow, and AFR or CHI heads, can all put out more "bang for buck" Just my opinion, and I drink a lot.....

Keen to see the build, though. Very cool engine to have.

Cool. 

See if you can find a second hand filter sock at a wreckers, any one will doo, as long as it can be secured to the pick up tube tightly. Wire/hose clamp etc....

Hi mate, "general" rule is 3/4 to 1 thousandths of an inch per inch of shaft diameter. 0.0075" - 0.001" So, a 2 inch journal can have 0.002" of clearance. 

As I said, this is a "general rule", as things like race engines, boost, revlimit can come into play. Stick with a well known brand like ACL, Clevite, Federal Mogul etc.....they aren't that expensive considering what they do. 

Good to hear you found the issue.  As Sparky Dave suggested, could you get some thinners/kero/whatever and some Gun barrel brushes or pipe cleaners in there and clean it out or is it rusted out.?

Yeah, OK.  Then maybe try Brakecleen or Aerostart down the carby, and see if it fires. If it runs on Ether, it must be the fuel system.

Hi mate, is it carby or EFI.?   

Carby might be blocked filter, EFI might be ignition module, fuel pump relay, or the pump itself (in the tank)