bear351c

Very nice, indeed. Lots of work, and money, I'm guessing. Question was whether a Clevo would be cheaper, all up? Reckon it still would be. BTW, (colin0933) got a build thread on your XF, would like to have a look, if ya do. Looks sweet.

Castrol Palmolive - 100% detergent.

Agreed +2, on the Magnatec. Total crap. Gerg, you mentioned the oil wasn't diluted, your carby all good.? Haven't got fuel leaking into the sump? Love the Penrite. Change every 5,000 kms, it gets a bit skinny at 10,000.

Leave them on for month, before looking at changing them out. They will sag a little. (See how it rides with 3 chicks in the back and 70 litres of petrol.) Looks like your tyres will get cut by the guards.

Excellent news.

If you drill it, find an old drill bit that's worn. A new bit may grab in the alloy and dig a bigger hole than expected.

Sweet stuff, mate. If you can't find an orifice plate, cut the guts out of an old thermostat, and use that as a temporary fix.

Good idea. If the valve seals and/or guides are worn, the oil will drip down during the day and sit on the piston, only burning on start up. Rings generally burn oil all the time, or under load. I've used the rubber umbrellas before without issue, although my engine head guy, suggested I machine the valve guides to accept the Chev ones, (metal cap with a rubber seal and a small spring around them). Just couldn't put anything with a "C" in it on my Ford..

12 gauge with solids................get both sides done.

My guess would be worn valve guides. Are your plugs oily.?

Ha Ha Ha Ha..^^^^^

Mine has ball bearings in all the lines.......... Have heard that if your car was fitted with emission control stuff, it has to have it, or Defect Centre. SA - The Granny State.

It's to reduce Oxides of Nitrogen, basically "Smog".

Agreed +1. I made a tool out of round stock, 600mm long with 2x 50mm prongs welded to it, at 90*. Worked a treat. Just needed a quarter turn more, to stop fuel weeping out.

Yeah, if there not down tight, next time you fill your tank, petrol will leak out. ------then the attendant gets the shits on, ........then the Fire truck came, .....then the swear words started.

Bah ha ha ha ha ha.............."it's on the Internet, it must be true"

Yeah, agreed. In the sump. If it gets hot, run a small thermo fan behind your oil cooler. Bigger sump might help to, Hi-Energy or a " Phase IV " winged sump. Think the Hi-Energy run about 10 litres of oil.

You running a dry sump, or an oil cooler, Trev ??

Race ya...........

Here's a link to an American site who fitted a B&M to an FMX. Shift lever on the trans must be pointing DOWN. (On a column shift tranny, the lever points UP) http://therooseveltexperiment.com/blog/2011/06/21/using-a-bm-cable-shifter-with-a-ford-fmx-transmission/

Geez, now you're pushing my memory cells.......did i mention I drink a lot.!!? Not 100%, but I reckon one of the pan bolts is used as a drain, don't think I remember a fill plug. Got a big blue workshop manual, or a Gregorys? They will tell you the amount from dry. I think with an empty stall converter, the FMX holds 8-10 litres.

Reset my laptop, here ya go........Name of paint in alphabetical order. http://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/colour_codes_ford_motor_company_M-Z.htm

Aww....man.! I just put all the shit back on the bonnet.!!! I'll have a guess that it was an extra 70-80mm from the mark, to the end, so that sounds about the same length. Shouldn't matter about the overall length, as long as it touches the fluid. Cut 10mm off at a time, until it stops hitting the pan. They are quite hard to push in the last 6 inches or so, just twist it a little.

Brake booster diaphragm works on vacuum, so wont do much without engine running. Should be able to pump fluid through, but, if line is completely empty EG: all the way from master cyl to rear brakes, then you will probably empty the reservoir, before the pedal gets firm. Remember to only crack open the bleed screw a couple of mm, or air will be dragged back in. Always keep an eye on the reservoir level. Use a air operated break bleeder if you can scrounge one up. Not sure how talented you are, but, this is usually a 2 man job, and a 6 pack. 3 pumps up and down, hold to the floor. Crack open bleed nipple for a second or two. Lock it back up. Release pedal. Repeat. Not suggesting you don't know this, just unsure how much experience you have. Let us know how ya get on, matey. Ha ha ha ha hah.......I wrote "nipple". That's so rude.

OK, 595mm from underneath the cap, on the dipstick. is normal. 610mm is the ADD mark. Check when HOT in PARK.