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Hats off to folks like that who can really get inside a carby and know exactly what's going on. Me? I just fumble around and look at forums to get a basic idea and run with that. The challenge is sifting through the 95% of misinformation and bullshit to get to the real info. I've got a Holley book and that helped heaps. I'd highly recommend it. As a bit of a photographer, I'd say those shots are rubbish (done with phone) but ok sure thanks

Ok pics for those still interested... The victim: The Donk: Chunky annular boosters in the primary side and stock type in rear. I call it the Mullet Holley... Business up front and party out back: The Frankencarby: My awesome booster install tool: Glued and re-drilled idle air bleeds: Mad duallies:

Nah mate on the opposite side to the throttle cable, where the choke cable connects, there should be series of cams and linkages that work to open the throttle a bit when the lever is pulled. Here's a picture: Choke on: Another view with choke off: Choke on: Short of taking a video that's about the best I can explain it. I'm sorry I can't circle the area concerned with just a phone (no computer). Hope it helps.

Yeah don't give up and get an electric choke, they come on even when the motor's warm! They can be a bitch to set up correctly too. Nothing can beat your own ability to sense if it needs choke or not. Who needs that auto shit anyway? You need to adjust that screw so it almost touches the cam when the choke is off, so the moment any choke is applied, the throttle opens too.

Just ran it in yesterday, so far all is well. I'm pretty chuffed at this new cam, 2-3000 rpm is lovely and effortless. It feels like a stock 351 for torque, it's that good. Anyone who rubbishes a 302 Clevo should drive one with a bit of cam and carby. Mine pulls cleanly from idle to 5500, feels like it's EFI, possibly due to the carby setup, but perfect for me. Sounds great with duallies and no crossover. I dropped the oil today and it looked much better than the first run-in. Certainly not like silver paint! I've thrown in Penrite 15W50 Diesel with a high Zinc level and spun on a Ryco High Efficiency filter just in case. My combo is as basic as you can get. Stock heads, stock valve gear, factory 4 barrel 2v iron manifold with the throats milled out, stock silver air cleaner with snorkel attached, Hypatec pistons and Bosch (copy) dizzy. Pissed off the engine fan and am running EF thermos at half speed. The essence of this combo is the modest cam and carby. The 600 vac Holley is just an $80 clapped-out eBay unit but I've done a few "gergifications" to it. It was a bit of an orphan to start with, being emissions type it has an air bleed adjustment for idle and transfer together. Turned out too lean no matter what i did. Also you can't get to the idle feed restrictors to drill them out either (inside the meter block). No biggie, in the end I epoxied up the air bleeds and drilled them smaller, then tuned the mixture around it. That fattened up the transfer a lot. By far the most radical thing I've done to the poor old carby is install annular boosters in the primaries. I even bodgied up my own press tool to install them. Looks like a mongrelised g-clamp. Whole job took about half an hour to do and cost 40 bucks total. Man what a difference! I'd highly recommend these boosters on any street-driven car. They come in earlier and atomise the fuel heaps better, giving awesome torque and throttle response. Another advantage is that less choke is needed in the cold. I've settled on 64 jets, as 61s would stumble just before coming in. Might try 62s for economy and see what happens. In summary, this cam and annular boosters are what makes this engine. Everything else is just run-of the mill stuff. My brother's highly tuned arse-dyno measures about a 15 sec quarter, not bad considering factory was about 17, and mine's a wagon too. I'd guess around 150 kW at the wheels to be about right.

If you can confirm that the choke plate is opening and closing, your idle-up adjustment needs some tweaking. The choke mechanism has a cam that acts on an adjustable bolt on the throttle shaft under the choke assembly. This bolt needs to be wound out so the throttle opens slightly when you pull the choke lever. On Holleys, I find that an increase in rpm when you pull the lever is more important than totally choking the carby to start nicely. My 302/600 Holley starts on half choke, one pump on accelerator and 1500 rpm in the middle of winter. Full choke is generally too much most of the time.

nah mate, was sitting on a stand in a garage, never been fired (thank goodness). I settled on a Crow 270/280, as it's a daily driver and I wanted to keep it Aussie. The one you suggested might be real nice in a 351, but mine's a 302 so might be a bit hairy. Good advice on the springs though, a lot of us just accept that the "kits" that they sell you are always perfectly matched. Sometimes they aren't, as you can attest. I'll definitely consider my options with the Coupe motor, as I'll be going roller for sure. I've got a virgin 4MA sitting in the shed and if the original 302 block is ok I'll be going that way (well maybe not, it's already 0.030" over). If I do need another block, I'll consider a Dart Windsor 4.125" with CHI 3Vs bolted on. Sounds expensive but add up machining costs for the old bits and you're halfway there anyway. I could do a decent street motor for maybe 8 grand if I screw it together myself. And why is it that it's getting so hard these days to find a decent body shop? I'm so sick of these stories coming out about people not getting what they asked for but coughing up stupid amounts of dough anyway. It really shits me.

There are lots of scenarios that can cause this problem: Blocked radiator core Water pump impeller corroded Cavitation in water pump (higher rpm) A/c operation Stop/start driving Visco fan operation Ignition timing/advance All these need to be checked. That said, if the temp never goes over half, I wouldn't worry about it.

Yep, agree with Wes. If the air is forced to go diagonally across the core, as in the first type, then more even flow will occur. The second one with the inlet/outlet at the top of the tanks will promote flow only between them, and the air down the bottom will, to an extent, stagnate. It's all to do with the momentum of the air coming in from the pipe. It wants to continue in a straight path, not have to turn corners to get through the core. It's the same argument for a cat converter. Often the restriction in them is not so much from the "core" but from too small an inlet, forcing the stream of gas to shoot through the middle instead of fanning out and utilising all of the core.

Nah mate long story short, bought it for $800 as a reco that some bloke had slapped together with a "mechanic mate" to go into his F100, but he changed his mind. When I got it, pulled it down just in case. Ok fair enough, it had a dead stock (brand new) cam, reco'd heads and 10/10 ground crank, 0.030" bore and all usual new bits. No surprises there. On further inspection though, I found a whole world of poo inside. The pistons had been put back in like it was a Chev, 1-3-5-7 down one side and 2-4-6-8 down the other. As you know Clevos go 1-2-3-4 on right bank and 5-6-7-8 on left. So this meant that half the rods were on the crank backwards. The engine would have lasted 10 min if lucky. Once assembled properly, I found #8 piston was pressed onto the rod backwards. Had to get that fixed too. Apart from all this wrong assembly, the "new" engine was filthy inside, like it had been put together in someone's garden shed. The crank had been bruised and scratched from the rod bolts hitting it, which needed rubbing down with an oil stone and some fine emery. Everything required thorough cleaning and re-assembly The engine came with no balancer or flywheel, and some bits were procomp (dizzy, leads and fuel pump) and the lifters were of an unknown brand. I'm guessing now that they too may have been rubbish. Also, the rockers were very worn in the pivot area, replaced them too. So my "cheap" eBay donk turned out to be nearly double the cost and many hours/days taken up fixing other people's fuckups. I'm still fixing them now, with the cam and lifters being replaced after 2000km. A lesson learned indeed. I hope others can learn from my mistake.

Update: old cam is out, lobes not pretty. All lifters stuffed after 2000 km. I don't think the Dynotec cam is at fault, as I can see some hardening still on some lobes. Others are either rounded off or have strange swirl marks running up and down the ramp, like the lifter face has had poor contact or was the wrong shape. One thing is for sure, the lifters definitely have been concaved and mushroomed. I couldn't pull them up through the bores, so I followed a great little tip I got off the net. I pulled all the lifters up as far as they would go and used clothes pegs around the body to hold them up off the cam. I cut a piece of 40mm PVC pipe in half lengthways, and slid it down the cam tunnel to catch each lifter as it was pushed down in its bore. I got them out one by one so I wouldn't lose any down into the engine. Pics of the failed parts to come soon. I've no idea why it happened as I did everything the way it was supposed to be done. As I have no idea what brand the lifters were, it now makes me suspicious about their quality. Has anyone had any bad experiences with cheap lifters? I know that when I bought this supposedly "reco" engine, several parts were of a particular brand... Well let's just say that this brand is famous for all the wrong reasons.

Thanks for the heads-up folks. I'll keep that one in the bank for when I build my gun engine for my coupe.

It's all relative, as in what cam and fuel you're running but for a mild-medium cammed streeter running shitty 91 fuel I wouldn't go above 10.5:1 with cast pistons. That's just me, as I like my engine to hang together for 300,000 k's and not do any surgery. I think i'm getting old. Some are happy freshening up an engine every 50,000 so and don't mind running on the ragged edge when it comes to cams and compression, etc. Horses for courses really.

I personally think there will be stuff-all. I reckon you're still in the danger zone for cast pistons, that is if you're not running a lumpy enough cam to bleed off some compression. I'm guessing though that you don't have such a problem with detonation as you would have mentioned it.

I'm posting this to my brother. He's building a boosted 200 Crossy in an XP ute, and needs inspiration.

My knockoff Bosch dizzy has a "speed hole" in the vac advance diaphragm, only took 500 k's of driving to get this awesome feature working. I didnt buy the dizzy, It already came with the engine... Bonus! Thanks P--C--p!

Even if you do get approval for physically shoving it in there, after a certain date of manufacture you'll need a feedback type gas system that uses O2 sensors, etc to keep emissions down. Cats need to be fitted, EGR, etc. Very much a grey area as far as I can see it.

Celica 5-speeds have the same shift pattern, but looking at the box, are different in that they have a steel sandwich plate between the alloy casing and extension housing, t5s have just the casing and extension. Toyotas use metric bolts, T5s imperial.

Silicone spray the shit out of it, can't hurt at all.

Yep Slydog is spot-on. The early non-crossflows had some goofy 2-branch exhaust manifolds, where there would be uneven pulses between them, giving that V-8 gurgle you hear. Not great for horsepower but sound tits. Here's an example where 1-5-3 and 2-4-6 are grouped to give that rumble: http://m260.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/VanillaEscalona/GetAttachment.jpg.html?o=139

Oops double post

Here's an idea: go bigger in the bore to get cubes. Swinging a crank and rods past 4 inches is asking a lot. Why not start over with a nice Dart 4.125" block? Here's one here in Aus: http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com.au/viewitem?itemId=160505733928 Sounds expensive but try and find a worthwhile Clevo block that hasn't been punched out or suffered water jacket rust or core shift... Not easy. By the time you do find one and prep it for all that horsepower, you're getting close to the same cost anyway. 4V heads are getting cheap as alloys get more popular. They can deliver the goods if given the right treatment. With 4.125 bores, you can fit some serious valves in too. The heads can be modded to fit the Windsor quite easily. There are plenty of manifolds around as well that fit Windsor block/Clevo heads. Stroker kits are very affordable nowadays. Aiming for say 428 cubes, you'll need 4" of stroke, surely there's a crank out there to suit.

Try some auto transmission conditioner. It makes your hard seals go all gooey again. Just don't expect to get it back together if you dismantle the box, as the seals swell up that much that you can't get the pistons back in. Also, how often do you give your tranny a flush/oil change/filter? The fluid makes a massive difference to the way an auto shifts.

They obviously make those profiles for a reason... I'd say it's to do with better scavenging by starting the exhaust pulse earlier in the cycle to pull it through at the right time as the inlet opens. Works mostly with extractors. For me it's just a guess but Crow have been doing it for years so I trust their experience. It's the cam that they recommended after I gave all the required info.

That name might have been his own description of the type of cam it was. Sounds pretty much like the cam I ordered anyway. Even the stuffed cam I have now, with the annular boosters in my carby make it drive like it's got EFI. Fuel economy is not like an EFI though! Pulls in 4th gear from 1000 rpm no sweat. The cam is spot-on for my car, an XE wagon manual with dual stock exhausts that is built for getting to work and carting my kiddies around with all the crap that goes with them. It's just a really cool family car. Gets plenty of attention too.