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Anyone know what size/type the pressure port takes on top of the steering box? It looks like a 3/4 thread on an SAE flare and 3/8" tube, but need to confirm. Cheers

The fulcrum seems to sit still while the rocker wiggles, that tells me it's all tight up top. Could be a collapsed lifter, which is (sort of) reparable, just need a way of getting it out through the pushrod gallery. If it's burred over on the face, you're in a world of poo. Also could well be a wiped lobe and/or stuffed lifter. My Clevo did this exact same thing early on and I had to do cam and lifters.

Yep that's spot-on, thanks for that. It's actually 11/16" x18 SAE inverted taper, and that thread is exclusive to that size fitting, nothing else uses it. Just so happens that i found an adaptor that goes to -7 JIC which i also have a 3/8" synflex crimp tail for. I'm going with synflex so i can go around corners a bit tighter and also because it might be quieter. I'll just run it away from the heat over the tower like Ando reckons. We have the crimper here at work, so all i need now is the 16mm to 3/8" (-6) JIC.

Had a work colleague have that happen with his lumpy Comp-cammed LS2, same setup. Fucked the lobe and sent metal through the engine. Plastic engine parts.... What a joke.

The exhaust is the big winner there, very impressive!

Is it an upright type with the solenoid on top next to the exh manifold? If so, the heat causes the solenoid cap to split and then no go. If you manually bridged it out and still no go then I'm afraid she's cactus. AUs will fit i believe but maybe need drilling out from metric to imperial?

Hey thanks heaps for the pic. The pump one would be easy but unfortunately the nut on the box end I dont have. So that bottom one can be a -7 JIC or UN-O to -6 JIC nipple with the male taper machined to a 45 female? I can do that easily but I might have to b-b-b-buy (hate saying that word) the M16/JIC pump end one. I understand the cooling effect of having steel line, that's why i'm going flexible from the pump to maybe under the engine then hard line along the x-member then up over the tower just like you said Ando. We have JIC tubeweld nuts and nipples to suit. I had a thought of using synflex for the hose section but i've seen that stuff blister in high heat conditions. At work we have both synflex and screw-on tails and hose for both. Whaddya reckon? Really appreciate you all sharing this knowledge by the way

Any particular place you can get them from in Aus? Are they available in 90 deg?

Thinking of going with a 16mm banjo to -6 JIC at the pump end. Saves looking around for something to adapt that funny o-ring fitting that fits nothing else but the Saginaw pumps.

Thanks mate no rush, just dicking around with some ideas for making up some lines. Trying to go to JIC (AN) each end to make it easy to make up hose/pipe ends.

The only way to correctly take that measurement is to have the whole diff stripped down on a bench and measure the bearing drag without a seal installed. Mark where the nut sits in relation to the pinion shaft so that when it's all back together, you line it back up to get your preload. Measuring the bearing drag with everything else installed means you're measuring the drag of all moving parts combined. If you've got it stripped already then disregard what I just said. Holding the flange can be done many ways, some make up a bar with bolts welded to it that line up with two of the holes in the flange. Your method might be ok but not the easiest. I've wedged a piece of wood or ally bar into the pinion while rattling it up with a gun. I don't know anybody who has bothered to measure the bearing drag to the extent you're talking of. I've just rattled it up and felt it purely by hand and it's never been an issue.

Thoroughly excellent article mate thanks for posting. This is a perfect snapshot of why the Japs took over the world. They invest in an idea that they know will work, and follow it through till it's not just successful, but bulletproof. In contrast, the Yanks are always Nickel-and Dime with every single aspect of their work. That engine, as the article says, would have been a gem if they allowed the things that Pontiac wanted. Instead, GM knocked it all on the head because it was all too easy to keep knocking out big dumb lumps of iron (like the 301) and they paid dearly for it later. They made a dog's breakfast in marketing it too. Typical corporate short-sightedness that carried through till just a few years ago when GM went bust. Ford wasn't much better. I reckon that OHC six could have been brilliant in a Pontiac version of the Corvette. The yanks were mad on British sports cars during the 60s and that would have been a worthy rival.

Did a mad one today if that counts

Yep I saw a pic of that V6 lump and thought "what the fuck? One exhaust port for 3 cylinders". Apparently it's to do with engine warm-up time (water jacket absorbs more heat) and it's only on the direct injection engines. Your useless bit of info for the day... You're welcome!

... From Blammo!

Stays pretty neutral really, nice diff hat by the way. I love this car

Gas needs more cam and manifold to make the same power as petrol so Impco 425/aussiespeed would be perfect. I've heard they're good for 180 RWkW but that would be the absolute max. A Ford 6 making that much would be off its tits, which I assume yours won't be. High performance V8s can use two of them. A GRA will be harder to tune and the CFI manifold will run out of puff over 4000. Would have nice torque though. Impcos, being a CD - type carby (like an SU) are a bolt-on proposition that should need no adjustment. The engine sucks x amount of air so it provides y amount of fuel. Beautifully simple!

I thought all Falcs up to but not including AU were the same offset (not including hub centre diameter). I've got EA snowies on my XE and they seem right. I reckon they're AU-onwards

Make sure you're not drawing too much from that circuit, might not fire up if volts are too low, or you could blow an ignition fuse.

There's a 470 as well, that might be the old 465 but they all appear to have 1.5" throttle bores. The difference in CFM might be in the venturi and booster design. It comes down to whether you want mech or vac secondaries too. The smallest mechanical is a 600 HP I believe. The goal here was to fill out the lower end of the torque curve and make the thing more driveable so mashing the pedal at low rpm with mechanical secondaries is just going to lose velocity and give soggy response. I say go to a good vac secondary unit. One that's set up correctly will have torque down low and seamless opening of secondaries.

So it was a TE with TF rear end? Sorry just realised it's all TF

All this talk about hot crossies is making me want to build one. Even if I've got nowhere to put it, I'll just shove it on a stand and look at it with a beer in my hand.

Fuck that's pretty good power from a warmed up tractor engine. I'd have been very impressed. I don't even think my 302 would make that!

You'll find that your ignition is wired that way anyway (constant 12v to starter switch) so don't be too worried about it. Your starter solenoid normally draws 8 amps initial and 4 amps constant, so a 20 amp switch would be fine. No need to fuck around with relays, ect.

Yeah nice gentle transition from runner to throat but the port opening seems smaller than the valve pocket. Call me stupid but is that less than ideal? I always thought the biggest restriction should be at the valve, or has that line of thinking changed now? Not much meat in the port roof but you could take a bit out of the floor I guess (if you wanted to open it up)