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Yep wagoon I found that exact effect myself with the shifting of the torque curve lower when on gas, with all else being equal of course. This is due to the already mentioned extra volume that the gas takes up in the intake, which tames the characteristics of the ports/camshaft. If you flip that concept around, you need bigger breathing to take the equivalent amount of fuel in.

Sorry Ando props to you, i didn't read through it all properly. If anyone knows about that subject it would be you with your speedway experience... and yes you are a crossy freak (I'd be proud of that).

All great advice from the usual crossy freaks on here but I'll add a bit more on the LPG thing. Stumper is 100% on manifold balance. My dad's XF was a warm 4.1 EFI and was a smooth revver all the way to 5500. That exact same donk in my LPG Corty with a Redline 2-barrel manifold was shitty above 4000 and felt like it was going to shake itself to bits. Bad cylinder balance from poor manifold design. Now the LPG. You'll need some decent plenum volume and a manifold that will give even flow for each runner. Although EFI manifolds are more even than carby ones, they have small plenums and runners and still favour the two middle cylinders, as they are right in front of the throttle. The factory rating for the EFI donk was 120 kW. Not bad for its day considering the 5.0 Dunnydoor made about that much. But the EFI manifold might only handle 150 kW before maxing out, and seeing as LPG takes up more volume in the intake than just plain air or air/petrol, that power potential becomes even less. The throttle drawing air from the hot side of the engine adds to the problem. So your choice in manifolds may not be the best to reach your goal, which is to match the performance of a modern V6 (around 180 kW). Ditto for the mixer. 225 is woefully small for any kind of performance engine. Go at least the next size up or a GRA single. Aussiespeed manifolds are not perfect but miles ahead of anything else, so I'd go with one of them in 4-barrel (for the plenum volume). So go bigger with everything... Manifold, mixer, ports, valves, cam, exhaust... all will work together to give you what you're after. No point in having one weak link in the chain.

It's shouldn't be too bad then. Mine's really like a 4-speed overdrive with "bog cog".

Depends on what kind of driving you do and how often, but that's a bit high for cruising. Is it a V8 box or 6 cyl?

At 100, 4th gear gave me 2600, bit high for highway cruising with a Clevo. I'd prefer to keep the rpm closer to 2000 to allow oil to drain back from the top end. If the oil gets stuck up top, you'll start to lose it a lot more through the valves.

Box in, clutch bedded in, all going well touch wood. Made some scary noises early on with some ticking and rattling but sorted itself over time. Prefer the shift action of my old Single Rail over my cut-down T5 but hey, gearing is good. Gets 2000 rpm at 100ks with 3.27 diff. Nice spread of ratios except 1st is short, maxed out at 55ks. Good for towing with a heavy car though.

After spurring my interest in this and looking it up myself, those 38 DGAS carbs are simultaneous-opening, ie no primary/secondary action. With two idles and both throats opening together, it could be a bit of a pain to drive sedately and get good economy compared to the 34 ADM. I don't think it would be much better than a well set up Holley. If there was a way of modding one to open progressively like on a 34 ADM, that would give you the best of both worlds. Dunno about the specifics of that though, looks like you're going to be the pioneer!

Not an expert, but i believe the standard manifold would be the biggest restriction. I'd upgrade that before anything else. Seems like a no-brainer otherwise, 38mm is bigger than 34 so not hard to see which is better. Do the ones you refer to open progressively or simultaneously?

So there you have it... Stumps and Stumper in the same thread

Fair enough, makes perfect sense.

Cheers guys I'll put that in the bank for later

That mob is called "parts cloner" Not sure about Fords as they do XU1 stuff. Rare Spares uses the same gear i think. Apparently this mob in Thailand re-made a lot of the dies so the panels should be spot-on.

Anyone know what it should cost to get a set of 2Vs done up with hardened seats, full guides and press-on seals? Hoping to re-use valves if possible. Stock-ish application.

Just did this to my 302 last weekend. Mine's a manual, so has said spacer. I used a later gear-reduction 6-cyl starter that puts the solenoid at about 8 o'clock instead of 11 o'clock from the front of the engine. You have to be careful when running it in an X-series as it comes close to the pitman arm. Mods needed are easy and quick. Drill out mounting holes from 5/16" to 3/8, one of them may need to be through-bolted depending on what bellhousing you're running. Take off about 10mm from the lower edge of the snout to clear the ring gear. This often works out to be to the next rib on the snout. I used a hacksaw the first one i did. Easy peasy. If you cant picture what I'm describing, try mounting the 6-cyl one and see where it hits. It's pretty obvious. Sorry no pics for you

You might have had air in the system all along, so when you went and bled it up it took the sponginess out, which before you took as being normal. Or do you have to push harder to achieve the same stopping power? If that's the case, you may have booster problems.

Mate if your neck of the woods is anything like this, i feel for you. NZXD I'd much prefer your kiwi weather but you can keep your lovely South Island climate thanks

I'll find out for you on Monday. I think they're made to order.

Was driving my Wags the other day towing a fucking trailer of course and something went clunk underneath and the clutch went really heavy, and barely worked. Got it home and had a look, clutch fork pivot had snapped its rivets off and was sitting there flopping around still clipped to the fork. Found that my slave is now fucked too. This is after i replaced the master about a month ago after it let go in traffic on a 36 degree day, mrs and kids in the car on the way to the beach. Fuck. Anyway so my T5 conversion has been fast-tracked cause i need the wags for family duties, getting to work, waking up the neighbours, etc. Made up a bolt-on bracket to mount the slave onto (my bellhousing is an a ancient mechanical type with no slave mount holes) Been slowly getting bits together lately: New slave $50 Sunbury 11" diaphragm clutch kit $299 Chucked the flywheel on the lathe and shaved it down to 10.5 kg from 13.1 Got it skimmed $40 New pilot $22 Bolted the pivot in where the rivets broke Ok so today it all went in... It was a conga-line of fuckups.... First, had to get my little bloke from school after just 45 min because he was playing up. Tried to do the grease behind the pilot bearing trick, trying to knock it out, couldn't find a good sized drift to put in, used a bolt and some electrical tape, ended up just spraying grease all over my face. Then tried to slide-hammer it out of the crank and the needle roller bit came out and left the outer casing in there. Fuck. Had to drill out each side of it to collapse it and pull out the pieces. They're soft as shit, must be grey iron or something. Even dinged the new one knocking it in with a copper hammer. Couldn't get the petrol compressor running right, had to fuck around with the carby. Needed it to run the rattle gun to do up the flywheel bolts. Another 1/2 hour gone. Had to cut the floor a bit to clear the T5 shifter. Rough as guts job, done with a 9" cutter disc. Haven't built my shed yet, so working out in the open in 40 degree heat, rolling around on a concrete slab with leaves and twigs everywhere, grease and shit in my hair, tools all over the place not organised, all too hot to touch in the sun. Stripped a crossmember bolt Snapped the grease nipple off the throw-out bearing, eventually found another one. Another 1/2 hour wasted. Little bloke decided while i was under the car, that he wanted hugs with daddy. Thanks mate, perfect timing. And no matter how much you drain a manual box, you always get that bit of oil spill out the back when you tip it up. On you, of course. Did i mention it was fucking hot? Anyway phone camera isn't working so no pics for future reference (yet).

I was thinking of the hand-beaten ones. I think they go for $600 a piece.

Dunno anything in the engine that has washers, maybe it's the retainer clip on oil pump drive shaft?

Bloke at work who's in the Sydney XU1 club says that they've come a long way in quality, nowadays mostly spot-on. Might be a bit of a lucky dip.

Good to hear you're fighting fit mate. Australia needs you!

Shit that's no good mate. Hope it all goes smoothly for you. Looks like an exact carbon copy of my own shit fight after my first cam and lifters got totaled. Mine had rubbish lifters from the start. The gerotor oil pumps that Fords use are very efficient but any chunks of metal going through will destroy them quickly.

You mean you've got oil pump probs or just the bit about sump removal?