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I understand XC the reason behind the dramas but the fact still stands that he used a less than second rate manufacturer and passed their work off as his own. From some anecdotal accounts of how some customers were treated and a distinct lack of transparency at the time on the part of AFD has me thinking hard about choosing this product over another. One of those said instances of bad treatment is when the Clevo rockers wouldn't line up with the valve tips. Apparently the advice given by the company was to use windsor-type rockers and then it would be right. Not my personal account but when there is more than just one rumour circulating, you can bet there is some truth to it. If you're a member of Ford Forums you can see an entire thread devoted to this issue. It's from 2009, but has pictures of said problems as well as personal accounts.: http://www.fordforums.com.au/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=11269345&page=2 I really hope you're right XC, and that these heads are now of the quality that they profess them to be. If so, they've lifted their game to where they should be, but it's hard to erase that stain of poor quality and denial of such (at the time).

I stripped a set of EA S-pack snowies and they're the same wheel under the silver paint. Same machined surface on the lip and spokes but the paint is so thick that in stock form it looks as-cast. Centre cap changes the look too. Early ones had a continuation of the spoke pattern (ie ESP) but later Ghia and S-pack ones had the "hub nut" looking one. I have them on my XE and looks fine. The rims look very chunky and solid, but I did a little trick and softened the chunkiness of the rim a tad. With the car on stands and running in gear, I got a flapper wheel on my grinder and put a 5 mm chamfer between the rim face and the internal circumference. Visually softens the wheel and makes it look slightly bigger.

Rumour has it that they were sourced from NZ which means China. Similar issues to P--C--p gear so you could almost say that they were one and the same. AFD wouldn't replace the faulty parts, only return and "repair". Some had to go back 4 times and in the end, looked rather 2nd hand. Things like ports ground through and epoxied back up to clear pushrods, chambers cast out of whack past the head gasket, rocker bolt holes not square to pedestal, rocker geometry incorrect (by admission from the company), list goes on. Sounds like déjà vu to me The price does sound attractive but do a bit of homework first. If it's the same people running it now, then I'd be reluctant to do business with them.

Actually scratch that idea... Too many bad stories going around about them. Just been reading up and it's not pretty.

AFDs are cast in Australia yeah? If so, the price is much more attractive now considering that their best 2Vs are a bolt-on with any manifold whereas CHIs best ones need their own manifold to work. Of course, CHI make 2V-compatible ones too but they cost just as much as their 3V gun version. Reading between the lines, you can surmise that the two companies are catering for different markets. CHI is well-known in the States. They make stuff to suit Windsor blocks as well, 302 and 351 and (i believe) 351M/400. AFD makes Clevo bits only. HP for HP, CHI seem to be more run-ready than AFD, but on the flip side, the AFDs leave a bit more headroom to do what you want. For the level of horsepower we're talking here, i don't know if there's much between them. Looking at prices, a set of bare CHIs are getting up around what a complete street set of AFDs are. My 2c: best deal would be to grab a bare set of AFDs and fill them with quality bits from Precision International. Then it's your choice on what springs, valves, seals, etc you want to run. Best price and your own preference of bits.

My brother's Supra got a similar upgrade recently and the Walbro was slightly smaller than the stock (Denso i think) pump and needed a bit of packing out. Denso often use licence-built Bosch stuff so although I've never done your exact swap, this might be a bit of a guide.

What do you mean by a correction kit Jack? I know stock ride height Falcs have a tendency to go severely neg camber on turns on the inside wheel, which might account for the inside scrubbing.

On a mild crossy, i reckon perfect. As long as they don't leak or aren't too rusty. Might want to think about swapping the starter for one with the solenoid 90 deg down and away from the pipes. The Bakelite cap on the solenoid cracks from the heat and then kaput. Later gear reduction ones are smaller too.

Genies are too thin in the wall on my experience. Those ones you show there are 6-2-1s, and without seeing the Pacies I'll assume they're the same. Pacies can be had in 6-3-1s as well, which are better. The ones in the pic seem to have decent radius bends (albeit press-bent) unlike others I've seen with really tight turns out of the end cylinders. Can't see the merge collectors very well but they they look like they're pipe-in-cone at the merge (good) but where the cone meets the secondary looks like a bit of a step. Could well be Hurricanes.

Funny, I've run BP6FS and now run 5s, both projected tip, without drama at all. Got a solid 30,000 out of the 1st set, if a bit oil fouled (not their fault). Mine are closed chamber heads but mines a little 302 with std (9.4) compression. Running stock iron intake with exhaust jacket. Having thermo fans helps a lot with regulating temps i think, but i run E10 most of the time so if running on was going to be a drama it would definitely show up when using it. I guess what we can take away from all this is if you up the comp on iron heads and have run-on and pre-ignition issues, going to a non-projected tip plug may fix it. Must say though, 11.2 is a bit much for iron heads on a street car, regardless of cam.

I'd be surprised if they do... F-series aren't exactly thick on the ground like Hyundais.

The fluid leaking out would be one possible cause. The fluid can change the friction characteristics of the drum/shoes. I'd change the cylinder quick smart. Brakes are something you need to rely on at all times.

I love this J3 chip thing... I think i might marry one

With the price that Aussiespeed like to charge for everything, you'd think they could afford it all

The hose going "to" the air cleaner is actually a feed from there to your engine. The idea is that the PCV sucks the crankcase gases out, creating a slight vacuum inside the crankcase and clean air gets sucked in through that hose from the air cleaner. The upshot of this is that your seals leak less with a lower pressure inside the engine than outside. Depending on how worn your engine is, it might not need too much ventilation for now. The PCV is an emissions thing, to stop crankcase gases and oil vapour floating around and polluting the place. Your air cleaner might also get dirty more quickly with oil vapour contaminating it. That redline manifold seems to have a blank boss between where it says "redline" and "torker". Why not drill and tap it out and put an elbow fitting there? Looks to be about 3/8" hose yeah? That boss would take a 3/8" BSPT elbow no probs. You'll still have a working PCV and it will look neat.

I dunno, never owned a rota, they seem peaky but in a ridiculous kind of way, i reckon they might be fun... maybe only for a while.

Or any Honda car ever made... VTEC or not. Dead and characterless unless they're screaming their tits off.

Revs to 10 grand... Pfffft only if it's 1.5 litres and built by Yamaha. Who would pay 65 Gs for an extremely rare engine then try and rev it to 10 grand anyway?

Yeah shift firming is one thing and is a win-win for driving and clutch life but the planetary problem is related to the gear design, not clutch engagement.

My brother-in-law's BA XR6T had the auto gearbox drop its shit only months after buying it (second hand). The gearbox bloke who rebuilt it afterwards reckons AU and series 1 BA had big problems with 1st gear planetary. BTR went to a sharper helical cut on the gears to cut down the noise in 1st and 2nd but this increased the end thrust which shagged out the planetary hub and bearings. He reckoned some BA turbos wouldn't last 6 months before coming back with the same problem. Series 2 BA went back to the old noisier EL planetary and no more problems. So what I'm getting at is don't go leaning on it too much in the lower gears, particularly behind a V8.

Pretty sure it's a truck SROD, (single rail overdrive) as Thom says found in f-series and also Jeeps i believe. May be worth something to a jeep restorer.

Love that philosophy... Ford did the same with 4Vs back in the day. Good flowing heads need less cam for the same horsepower and that means you don't need all the big name valve gear to keep it all together. You can't cam it up too much anyway otherwise you go backwards, especially down low.

Making me want to whip my 2Vs off and give them a tickle... Damn you Ando!

It's not about needing to be rich, rather the extra fuel injected stabilises combustion and keeps it on the "safe side" of detonation. You could substitute the extra fuel with water if you wanted (ie water injection... What a great idea)

I'd be aiming at something a bit richer than 12.8 Ando, it's a turbo after all. Agreed on the gearbox, it's torque that kills them, not power.