gerg

Cheers Ando that doesn't sound that bad actually. A pair of 2vs would be less than 50 kg.

Cheers mate that's mighty fine of you to offer, will call them and get a price and if it's something i can stretch to then it's on. Might be a couple of months though.

Wow you really are the go-to guy for crossy bits

Sounds good Ando, just out of curiosity, what did it cost you to ship the bits off to Brissy from your neck of the woods?

Ok cheers for that Thom... Might keep looking around. These are Sydney prices and if the difference is that much i might freight them interstate to your guy or whoever. This too is a budget build and although there's nothing wrong with the performance of the current heads, the oil consumption and smoke is shitting me. I'll happily pay an extra $200 if that stops the problem.

Hey anyone had a set of heads done up recently? Just wondering if what I was quoted is in the ballpark of reasonable. Basic head service $475 (Incl. 3-angle seat, face skim, hot tank, valve grind, etc) Machine for press-on seals $130 Seals x 16 $60 Needs press-on seals as he reckons the umbrella type ones are shit and crack in no time from unleaded fuel. So that's a $665 baseline Then if it needs guides and valves, then it's more on top of that. Worst case scenario, would be looking at probably $1100 if all guides and valves needed replacing, but he seemed to think that they probably wouldn't. Reckon that sounds right?

Deleted... Found a more appropriate thread

Yeah seems like an easy job at a glance but the problem is that the cam bearing "cap" doesn't touch the cam at all, just acts as a brace for the valve gear. The valve spring pressure and hydraulic lifters are what push on the cam followers, which hold the cam down into the half-tunnel. Without a full circle (top and bottom halves) it is impossible to line-bore it oversize. It could possibly be reamed using a pilot centred on the next cam bore but that may require a custom-made pilot. Another approach could be to install a speedy-sleeve onto the cam (if they exist in that size) and lap it in to the head somehow. Or stake a bronze half-bush in there and mount the head vertically in a mill and machine to suit. This is all theoretical however, and unless there's someone around who actually has a method of fixing this, a head replacement is on the cards.

Speaking of horsepower... Any guesses as to final number? I'm calling 190 at the wheels

Looks like we all think alike. I do that with lots of different bolts as an internal thread chaser. Doesn't cut any more thread out but rather burnishes the surface and makes the thread smoother. I use a chainsaw sharpening wheel to get the right shape scallop at the tip of the bolt.

Sorry... Thought I'd try and be funny. The joke is actually "needs more cowbell". Had to be there i spose

Needs more cow-pump

So excited you fogged up your camera lens

There will be a time when they'll be worth a bit. I like em anyway

Here's my thread on restoring a set of snowies using water sand blasting and painting the spokes gold. Scroll down to the pics to see: http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/1600-K%27archer-Wet-Sand-Blasting%3A-a-review-%28sort-of%29

Paint stripper will get the majority of that silver off, should be a nice shiny machined surface underneath. Good score!

This is exactly what we need Ando, and glad you have the time and patience to put it all together just because. Great thread and great idea!

Yeah fair enough i'd be a happy camper with that too, but stock 2Vs and CHI 2Vs are two very different animals. The CHIs have the benefit of 40 years of advancement plus computer modeling. I guess at this point Stumper could chime in and elaborate on just how much better they might be compared to factory ones.

I love finding out this stuff. Is cast iron hard on the surface due to a reaction with the sand ie becomes a silicone alloy or somehow turns into a carbon steel? I heard they swapped sides with the clutch fork on S2 XF to get the clutch cable and boot away from the cat that runs down that side

Excellent work Jimini, makes mine look like, well.... A backyard job! Love the metal spray weld process you described. You're some sort of a fitter/fabricator/boilermaker right? I would love to have those tools you have there, and the skills to use them. You obviously don't have an issue with the top bolt holes being so close to the old ones... No failures yet so maybe me filling them in on my one is a bit of overkill? Do you find that the Ford iron is bloody rock-hard? My brother once milled out my stock inlet manifold plenum and carby face and reckoned the mill really didn't like it, had to take very small bites otherwise the tool just wouldn't cut.

Nah not having a go, just had a thought about the initial question (about power dropping after 6k) that's all, and wanted to show that the possibility of the camshaft timing being out pertains to that original question, not the heads. All good advice on here, everyone has their own experiences so collectively we should be able to come to some sort of an answer.

Anyway back on topic for a second... Olive XM do you reckon retarding the cam would help your combo produce the goods past 6000? I should imagine that CHI 190s wouldn't be running out of breath by then, at the power level you're seeing.

Two separate issues there xd393. The rockers not sitting right were due to bolt holes drilled/tapped in the wrong spot in relation to the mounting pad, and not perpendicular to the surface. So bolting down the rocker would have the tip in the wrong spot and the fulcrum touching one side of the pad but having 0.020" gap on the other. If the valve is machined in one spot and the rocker pivot is in another, that's where the rocker will sit. Moving the guide plate will do nothing to correct this. Clearancing the pushrods was another issue, where going far enough into the outside of the port runner to clear the pushrod had you well inside the port wall. Their fix (pictured on that thread i linked to) was to epoxy up the port wall after the clearancing was done. This was on a brand new set of heads. I'd say there was some casting/core shift problems. I don't know how to make it any clearer than that. I don't want to rubbish any company without good cause for it. Without the kind of scrutiny like what we're applying here, imagine what sort of shit companies would get away with. One famous company springs to mind...

I found the Quickfuel one to be ok, some bits lacking in quality, like replacement idle screws with dodgy threads. They come with all kinds of base gaskets for all sizes of carby but you need to specify spread or square bore. Holley kits are model-specific i believe. Vac diaphragms come in 3 types (length of pushrods varies). Hume performance sells every nut, bolt, gasket, washer you can think of for Holley carbies as well as some Rochester bits. They do online order and delivery too.

Good to hear that side of it too. I heard their cast iron versions also had trouble with cracking on the head face, due to them using the same thicker casting moulds as the ally one instead of your typical thin-wall iron casting. A thick head face supposedly creates cooling problems with iron.