Mr Polson
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Last visited
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Posts posted by Mr Polson
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On the top of the battery is there a small square sticker with a recycle symbol and four numbers?
Sticker could be purple, white, orange, green, yellow or possibly other colour. -
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XF had return from pump, XE had return from carby.
is that the XF one? with return line in it? i thought My last XF didn't have a return line in the pump.. so [mention=38603]marcus[/mention] should check his to make sure.. see how many hoses are on it
This is the XE style
https://www.repco.com.au/en/parts-service/fuel-ignition-exhaust/fuel-pumps/fuelmiser-fuel-pump-external-mechanical-noglassbowl-fpm-000a/p/A7718853
deankxf reacted to this -
This one should do the job - may need to swap the fittings to the one from your current pump.[mention=291]deankdx[/mention]do you know what exact pump i need to buy?
https://www.repco.com.au/en/parts-service/fuel-ignition-exhaust/fuel-pumps/fuelmiser-fuel-pump-external-mechanical-fpm-008/p/A7063628deankxf reacted to this -
I'll just leave this here.......
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Trip to Tassie may be on the cards,
https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/penguin/engine-engine-parts-transmission/ford-400ci-block/1253956894
you'd have to go through Melbourne to get on the Spirit of Tasmania.. [mention=21]Mr Polson[/mention] goes to Burnie (not far from Penguin) every now and then..
If anyone ever needs anything from Tassie they're more than welcome to try and sort it via me, I don't always have a lot of spare time but I'll do my best. And more than happy to travel statewide, only takes a day to go anywhere in Tassie and back.I need a map of Tasmania ,with camel toe
Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk
Going to Devonport after work tonight to buy a car, and still have to be at work tomorrow
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Nope, they're different, but you can easily use an auto one for a manual, might just have to enlarge the hole a little.Hi all are the auto and manual humps the same I am going from bw to t5.
Thanks
I've got an auto shifter hump in my XF with a T5. -
Can't fit power steer to a three speed manual unfortunately. The shift linkages will foul on the bigger power steering box. You'll have to stay manual steer or convert to a 4 or 5 speed on the floor.Hi, thanks for letting me join, I have an xf ute (pic to be posted soon) that I'm hoping to put power steering on. Have everything but the mounting bracket for the pump and the pulley wheel, but I'm a bit confused about the previous steering column messages. My xf has three on the tree manual, the donor has a steering column from a column mounted auto. Apart from the obvious tits and tyres analogy...am I gonna have trouble?
Ute didn't (and still doesn't) have power steer, but I did fit a ZL column to it, had to extend the length to suit the manual steer box.[mention=21]Mr Polson[/mention] i can't remember if you had it or fitted it or didn't?deankxf reacted to this -
Pretty sure it's on the shelf at all Repcos. If not all, definitely the vast majority.Buy some Soft-Seal from your local industrial suppliers, or even Repco/Bursons may stock it?
The stuff I bought, is made by CRC.
It's basically a non-drying wax/grease substance, in a spray can - designed specifically for rust protection, of metal machinery parts in storage.
https://www.repco.com.au/en/oils-fluids/greases-lubricants/lubricants/crc-heavy-film-soft-seal-300g/p/A7681836JackFrost and SPArKy_Dave reacted to this -
Simply should bolt on but your dipstick will be in the wrong spot and FG motors don't have a spot to have BA dipstick drilled.
Oil pickup will also be different.
Wiring and PCM will be different, there's quite a few differences between BA and FG, such as locked dual variable cam vs independent variable cam. FG PCM will be designed to run a 5 or 6 speed auto not 4 speed. Not sure how you'll get around that.gerg reacted to this -
Have fun with trying to flatten out the gasket in the Ryco kit. For some stupid reason they roll them up and put them in a box.I'll go out and get a picture in the morning, but yeah, it definitely split.
I've ordered a Ryco one off fleabay and I went down to Supercheap and grabbed another Transgold one in the meantime.
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What gearbox?deankxf reacted to this -
Oh yeah, I'd stay electronic if you can get decent branded stuff.
I agree. However, when they work, these engines benefit big time from electronic ignition.
I have a complete points setup, but after having issues with getting the points dizzy to be reliable when i first got the car, and no issues until recently with the electronic dizzy, i think i just need to bite the bullet a buy a scorcher for it.
If I was keeping the Cruiser motor I'd have gotten a Pertronix electronic ignition, but once it's Barra'd it'll obviously be distributor-less so I could make do with points for a few months.Panko reacted to this -
Based on my experience with cheap electronic dizzy conversions, either ditch it and go back to points, or get something decent.haha nooo
its an AccuSpark. cheap chinese.
I had quite a few issues with my Cruiser when I got it, running rough, missing, hesitation under load, backfiring, stalling, all disappeared once I went back to an original points distributor.Panko reacted to this -
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Does anyone have a diagram on which heater hose goes where, where the tap thing needs to go and where the vacuum line run to? I'm bypassing the manifold, as it won't be there anymore, and I have a mental blank on where the hoses went.
You'll have to block one of the hose outlets from the head, and run the other one to the heater core, and then one from the water pump to heater.
Heater tap should be in hose from head, and that should go to the centre most heater pipe according to the workshop manual.
These are the diagrams from the Ford workshop manual, I've included both carby and EFI because really you're running the EFI style heater hose now
deankxf and motoSycho reacted to this -
Where did you get the lifting brackets your using from?, seem much better then the factory ford ones.They came on some crossflow motors I picked up.
They look like the normal xflow ones. Normally they bolt on the lower manifold holes not top ones, and I think they normally face the other way around. -
We have one on the shelf, but the Repco ones use M8x1.25 bolts so no idea on what yours will be.I've got a Protec water pump and be fucked if I can find bolts to fit to bolt the pulley on with! The originals don't fit, so I grabbed some M8x1.25, which should have been the metric equivalent, and they don't fit either! So now another 60k round trip into town to try again!
Fuck me!! Just make the bloody things the same as the originals!
In better news. This arrived today.
bear351c and motoSycho reacted to this -
I've got a Protec water pump and be fucked if I can find bolts to fit to bolt the pulley on with! The originals don't fit, so I grabbed some M8x1.25, which should have been the metric equivalent, and they don't fit either! So now another 60k round trip into town to try again!
Fuck me!! Just make the bloody things the same as the originals!
In better news. This arrived today.
I don't think we keep xflow water pumps on the shelf anymore, but if we do and I remember at work tomorrow, I'll check what size the replacement pulley bolts are.5/16 UNF remember?
Replacement pump would have metric thread machined into the hub.motoSycho reacted to this -
Put the new waterpump on last night and it looks like it has different sized bolt holes to bolt the pulley to! The bolts off the old one don't fit!
Yeah, most come with new bolts included, converts them from imperial to metric.
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DB1075GCT for fronts (if Girlock caliper), in standard Bendix. Swap GCT for HD for heavy duty.
DB1045GCT if it's got the PBR calipers.
DB1078GCT for the rears. Bendix only do the rears in GCT option.
I ran HD Bendix pads on the front of my FG when I got it, and found them to be rather dusty. Both my XFs have GCTs and pull up pretty comparably (minus the 30 years difference). GCTs are definitely less dusty than the HDs, and are also cheaper.ESPSIX reacted to this -
DBA slotted T2s are probably the best rotor for the street.
I wouldn't recommend Bendix ultimate for the street, they need to be warm and used hard to be effective.
Normal Bendix pads should be fine, of Heavy Duty if you don't mind some dust.Crazy2287 and XEghia reacted to this -
Thats either expensive or mine were cheap, at $250/wheel.Those wheels are looking good mate!
Yeah the original diamond finish, is created on a CNC lathe - costs about $400/wheel from memory, to have snowflakes done as per factory.
I'm always a fan of restored/polished/mint condition factory alloys.
The LTD should look really nice with those fitted.
Free.51 reacted to this -
PCV valve popped straight into the rubber grommet on the rear of the alloy cover. Can I just pop a filter breather type thingy onto the hose protrusion just behind the filler cap? Or run a hose from there to a catch can?
Either or.
I think emissions rules mean it should be recirculated into the engine, but that's only a minor detail.
Wouldn't think you'd need a catch can on a recently built stockish motor
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If you have a close look on the original it may have the amperage engraved on it. Alternatively@SPArKy_Dave probably knows it off the top of his head too.
It's the one circuit breaker for both in mine. The second circuit breaker (in the wiring diagrams) and the blank spot in the fusebox under the dash is for the power windows.
I'll check out the link to the part and see if I can make it fit in, I put a 25A glass fuse in there for testing/troubleshooting purposes and it can stay there at the moment so the lights all work for pink slip, but i'd like to put it back the way it is supposed to be.
Make sure if you get a new one that it's auto reset not manual. Otherwise if it goes off again for any reason you'd have to stop and reset it to get the lights working as opposed to it cooling down and working again by itself.
How to find manufacture date of battery
in Auto Electrics
Posted
There will also be a stamp there that can decoded into the actual manufacture date, is 4 or 5 digits, with both letters and numbers but I'd have to actually check with Century how to decode them.
We just go off the stickers normally, batteries don't sit on the shelf for anymore than 2 months max before Century take them back, recharge them and resticker them.