Mr Polson
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Content Count
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Last visited
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Everything posted by Mr Polson
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Coil lead is too long if it's sitting on top of fuel pump. I've always just gone with a standard replacement, not the modern transformer type. Being a electronic dizzy, GT40 (and equivalent) are not the same as the OEM ones, Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
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I'd be thinking it has to be related to the ECU or the AFM. The XF EFI system needs info from the AFM to run properly, and definitely to drive. From memory they will idle with AFM unplugged but not drive with load. Could be a wiring issue between the AFM and ECU? Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
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Sideways movement could be bad. My ute when I first got it went through two dizzy gears - fixed it by swapping the motor. Have heard rumours that late xflow blocks had poor casting causing alignment issues with the dizzy gear on the cam. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
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Shouldn't be too hard to bolt the coil to the shock tower area on the passenger side. I think Ford's logic of having it on the motor was to eliminate vibration from the road. Have you checked the timing? And when setting it there is a plug that needs two pins shorted out to tell the EST computer not to adjust the timing. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
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Ford ditched the drain plug on the 3spd autos in the 70's, my old man remembers the service bulletin - it saved them 8c per transmission pan to build them with no drain plug. So yeah, undo the bolts and make a nice mess. I keep meaning to add a drain plug into a spare pan for my auto in the wagon. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
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Handy hints, Penrite Wheel Bearing Grease is just as water safe as their Marine Grease, whereas Castrol and Valvoline Wheel Bearing Grease is NOT marine rated at all. I've and to convince a few customers to use Penrite WBG or another form of marine safe grease for their boat trailers, after seeing them buy marine wheel bearing kits but getting a tube/tub of Castrol HTB. So even if your wheel bearings (particularly on a boat trailer) may have been done recently, there's no guarantee it was a marine rated grease. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
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I've tried stripping them - Ford used damn good clear coat back then. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
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Is your Bowden's Polish red or blue? They changed it recently and the blue one is much better, and I believe a compound type - it's super fine abrasive according to their website. Below is what it done on the hose clamps for the air intake on the wagon. Although it hasn't been able to do much to the snowies on the wagon. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
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^Thom is the guy to ask about detailed questions for a 4.0L, I know some basics, as do plenty others on here, but Thom is the 4L wizard Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
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Yeah, I was nowhere near that rough with it. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
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I could've been missing something. Or not been patient enough. I've also heard XF have smaller trans tunnels than earlier models - no idea if it's true - but if it is and stopped the motor lifting as high as other models maybe? Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
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Sorry but I disagree. Tried this on my wagon when it had a dented sump. Had the sway bar links undone, engine mounts undone, fan off, couldn't get the motor high enough to remove sump for two reasons. 1. Transmission didn't have anymore room to lift higher in the tunnel with how far up the motor was lifting. 2. The radiator/front cross member stops the sump sliding forward enough to angle down to be removed. I will point out I did have enough room to change the oil pump with motor in place, but to actually remove the sump I had to disconnect the trans and fully lift the motor. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
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NGK leads are normally blue Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
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Yes and no. Penrite say it's really good for less used cars as the oil stays on the internal surfaces a lot longer, reducing corrosion, and metal on metal friction on start up after longer non running intervals. If it's a car driven more than once a week I'd go HPR30, the crossflow in my ute loved it before I started using the Classic Light. You might even get away with HPR15 (which is a Full Synthetic 15W-60) depending on the internal condition of the motor. Last time I had a 15W oil in my ute it rattled on cold starts though Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
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Non-pwr steering box, educate me
Mr Polson replied to Defective's topic in Steering, Suspension and Brakes
Can be done in car - I done mine out of car as I swapped from column manual to floor shift anyway. Just make sure you get the steering coupling dead flat. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk -
No need for fuel additive as it's alloy head which come with hardened valve seats. Plus the heads are cast by Honda - who were using unleaded fuel long before Ford Aus. I run Penrite Classic Light in mine - a 20W-60 specially designed for use in infrequently driven cars. If yours is a daily driver I'd go Penrite HPR30 (still 20W-60). Both my xflows run Champion plugs. One has Repco plug leads (made by Bosch) and the other has Champion leads. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
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Definitely still available, we've got 10 in the Repco warehouses. Pricey though, $291 is retail. Comes under the part name "Idle Speed Motor". Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
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Or JL - utes/vans on the secondary line got that. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
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Sump design is reversed - drops down at the back rather than front. Pickup is different to suit. Most blocks have two casts for dipstick, one drilled for Falcons if used in Falcon, other used for Cortina. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
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Yeah, without the Ford logo obviously. If I remember tomorrow at work I'll see if they're still avaliable. Weren't cheap though. Yeah it's basically a choke for cold starts, also bumps the idle up when A/C is on, and ensures the engine stays running under decellaration. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
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I run Penrite Classic Light in my xflows (it's a 20W-60). They both love it. Repco can get brand new ISC for XF EFI. Or at least could last year. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
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Was it running fine with them plugged in before? And am I reading that right - it runs fine with the ISC and AFM UNPLUGGED but is running poorly with them plugged in? Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
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Disconnect the fuel pump relay, and give the key quick flicks to wind the motor over via the starter. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
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Dean has said what I was thinking. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
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Is the motor set on top dead centre for cylinder 1? Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
