Mr Polson

Fuelmiser is just a box, they don't make anything. They buy other companies parts and put them in a Fuelmiser box, so you could end up with a cheaper no name part, or something made by someone like VDO

Vacuum leak would be my prime suspect Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

No vac advance on EFI. All plug leads are on in right order (153624)? Vac leaks from gaskets/hoses/dipstick/oil cap cause big issues with the xflows injection so worth checking that too Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

AU onwards boxes are longer aren't they? Might be something to be wary of. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Carb or injected? I'd check cap, rotor, leads and plugs first Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

It is on my XF wagon, assume XE would be same. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

XF utes and vans all had drum, right to the end of production. Wasnt until XG they swapped over to disc, and as Dean said they're solid disc. XF had vented on the rear, with similar (maybe same) calipers as XG/early E series. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

I also agree with this. Had it happen to me before. This is the part in question - metal box next to relay

Wish more people knew this. I've had multiple customers want us to order in a new gasket for them because their MLS gaskets has "seperated" before they installed it Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

If you're not going to change the filter, don't bother changing the oil. Once the filter is dirty, it cant hold anymore contaminants, and will either clog up and cause low oil pressure or allow the contaminants back through the motor, meaning its not doing its job. $7.79 for a Silverline version of a Z9 from Repco - https://www.repco.com.au/en/brands/silverline/silverline-oil-filter-spin-on/p/A8356645

You've got glass headlights, so the toothpaste or sanding won't work, that's for more modern cars with the plastic headlight lenses Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

The ISC (Idle Speed Control) governs the idle by allowing certain amounts of air to bypass the throttle butterfly - like when AC is engaged or for fast idle on cold starts, but base idle is still set by winding a screw on the throttle body. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

I sure do, I'll have a look when I get home from work Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Good to hear it's sorted mate! Added the photo you shared on Facebook to your post for you Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Probably got to rev it to at least 5k to start making any power though, if it's like most other Japanese engines Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Should've bought something Barra powered... Two bolts for me to change the thermostat on the FG [emoji14] Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Because if they did, when new pads are fitted the handbrake would barely have to be on to engage, but by the time the pads got to 50-75% wear you'd nearly have to get in the back seat to pull it far enough on. At least I think that's how they work. Ford "fixed" the handbrake issues by going to the Banksia style (drum shoes inside the disc rotor) in late Eseries, problem with those is they need adjusting pretty much every service. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

It's a fiddly job but not overly hard - I swapped my red wagon from carb to EFI. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

The computers are the same between Auto/Manual but different between leaded/unleaded, are you 100% they've been the right computers? It is normal for them to idle without the AFM connected - or least mine does, from memory. Not as smooth as with it plugged in. I'd be checking earth's and wiring. Has the dash been out before? The ECU wiring runs behind the dash, maybe it's been damaged somewhere out of sight? Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Later model cars they are different as the autos became electronic, but in a XF they were still completely hydraulic operated. The gearbox knows how much throttle is open by the kickdown cable, and the engine doesn't care what gear the box is in. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Doesn't matter what gearbox for the computer. @Panko swapped his XF Ghia from auto to manual years ago and still has the original auto computer. I'm not even sure there was a different computer for gearbox for EFI. There is for EST but that's completely different But, there ARE different computers for leaded fuel (pre 86, black lid airbox), and unleaded (post 86, blue lid airbox) Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Stupidly expensive calipers to get, if you can even get them these days. I got a pair of exchange ones for my wagon through work, and even on our staff prices they were still pricey. Worth it though for a non sticking, smooth operating caliper. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

This is how mine is setup on my ute. Runs well enough. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

I have a work van, I can't decide if I like it or dislike it [emoji23] Mechanically it's reliable, 210xxxkms of delivery driving and it's never had a mechanical failure. Electrics play up occasionally, and parts can be tricky to come by - even for Repco. It's an oddly comfortable vehicle too, although you sit on the seat in the car instead of in the seat in the car - if that makes sense. It's probably a common van seating position. Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Maybe have a read of this? http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/7027-Ford-Registered-Technician-Bulletin---EEC-IV-(XF) Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk