Demmo

so my claim to fame is I shouldn't play with cars period. I undone the clips that held the wire harness and the two missing screws (not mine the cars)were there behind the wiring harness for the electric trailer brakes. so know I have replaced the dash panel which works and removed the wire and hardware for trailer brakes and some switch gear. now i can get my fat hand up under the dash ya!. thanks 4 your help dean cheers demmo

thanks mate I will have another look just wondering if they are the screws that are holding the small wire harness below the speedo unit even though they don't appear to be near the cover guess I will be brave an remove one to see what happens then cheers demmo

yes you are correct with xf xg but xh I can only find 2 screws on top and 2 midway under light switch an opposite side but across the base is all smooth it feels that its attached directly below and inline with the top screws but I cannot feel or see any attachment points the 9 kg gimpy has crossed my mind to make it unattached I rang the local wrecker an he has no wrecks of that vintage they have all gone to scrap so I guess I will wait for someone to post answer it will be simple and I will be in the dog house lol

have to agree with deano if the wires are 1 black and the other is yellow with red trace they are low coolant sensor as on my zl wreck they are connected to radiator if you want a pic of lets know cheers demmo

ok i need some advise from the knowledgeable re auto 4 speeds i may have sourced an auto box from an el 4ltr falcon as a replacement for my xg 4ltr auto can someone tell me if it is a straight swap or is there modification needed sorry for limited details as i haven't laid eyes on the transmission so i am in the dark a bit its typical demmo style need fast decision if i want it the driver can grab it tomorrow arvo as he has room to squeeze it on the backload so any advise would be appreciated cheers demmo

o sorry jack just re read all posts and the ute in question is an xg that I use for a run a round the red xh outback is retired to the hayshed maybe I should of posted a few pics of xg when I saved it from tip but its not in same league as all the flash xg s on here and its not red don't want to embarrass anyone cough cough haha cheers demmo

thanks guys for reply's yes the van is complete but I would need to be best friends with someone like 2redrovers who can turn pig shit into strawberry jam (for those who don't have a weird sense of humor its rusted) thanks for the offer jack at this stage I still not sure what to do. its a case of having to many toys, the war office complaining about too many spare parts in backyard, the usual empty pocket syndrome, and what spare time? the tranny only seems to go straight to second then third and when at speed you back off pedal and it seems its in neutral a bit like the first old holden hydramatics even when you lock selector in 1 it will rev out to about 75 shift to 2 and you can hit 110 hit 3 and 4 no change reverse works fine so I guess the tranny is destined for scrap cheers demmo

Just found this thread as my auto has just died. So am thinking to do same conversion too. So binary_fuel did you go ahead with this swap any problems etc? Q. I have an xh 5 speed manual van that I can acquire would pedal box transfer to the earlier body and would there be any other problems can anyone advise or. am I better off finding another auto box thanks. Demmo

I think it was several failures at around same time being failing fuel pump, possible blockage in the lines an filter, and dizzy cap wearing out causing erratic spark and of course a old impatient buggar with nil mechanical knowledge jumping to the wrong conclusions so hopefully she will give me another few years of daily travel of 200 kls a day thanks for your help along the way cheers demmo

hope someone can help before I put a match to it ok over the last week or so the xg would hesitate /not respond on quick acceleration and has slowly got worse. yesterday it started coughing missing and would not build up revs it would cut out then crank over fire and stall as if out of petrol it had half a tank at the time now it wont start at all. ok have checked all plugs leads ect and have spark at all cylinders put pressure gauge in fuel line an this seem to be hit an miss pressure nill to about 10 psi so put new fuel pump (only) and inline filter on still no fuel to rail tried a second pump complete from the outback that works same thing when you turn key on both the pumps whine an then stop now if the fuel line is removed at the tank I only get a small amount of fuel out each time so do these fuel pumps need some sought of back pressure to function or would it be possible that the computer lowers the voltage so pump speed is reduced /or increases voltage and I have f rked 2 fuel pumps so is it possible to hotwire the pump to see if it increases the amount of fuel any suggestions/ideas what it could be will be appreciated thanks Demmo

ya ho we are now in celebration mode all back to normal well nearly goes like the clappers except for the noise from thy holly exhaust o well it can wait a big thankyou to the guys who took the time to help and advise a big thankyou to the valve bouncer for pics now off to the pub for a wee dram or 3 and a counter lunch for the war office cheers demmo

reply to daves questions I purchased 2 fuel pumps a few years ago from "dirt racer" in qld I only replaced one on outback the other left in cupboard when it appeared to be faulty I purchased another which so far seems to be ok the oxy sensor was purchased about same time from repco but never installed distributor is bosc motor craft the sensor on the side has no brand this was sourced from local engine builder yes I have a code reader from murray but get a little lost with terminology the idle control valve may be faulty as I did clean it in thinners and I have since read this may be a no no so I may have to find replacement quick question are the icv the same on xh as the wires go into the solenoid on opposite side the map sensor was swapped from outback so it was running so can only assume it in working condition with regards to the old dist. it appears to have been filled with water as there was corrosion on the inside walls ect. so I guess this was also part of problem anyhow tomorrows another day thanks for everybody's input so far cheers demmo

Ok just put timing light on and it is now showing the pulley market as about 1&1/2 cm pasts the marker when idles which was about same place before we changed distributor So do you think that it's too advanced or ? Think I better go have a beer or 3 and play with Google an not the redhead Cheers demmo Sent from my HUAWEI LYO-L02 using Tapatalk

No we just set tdc to marks on bottom pulley. And the rotor pointing to notch at no.1. How do I find out which pins as on my old xf. there was a plug under bonnet. Nothing on xg or my xh.. looks like I gonna have to Google it Thanks Sent from my HUAWEI LYO-L02 using Tapatalk

Just a quick update we have now replaced the distributor Starts fine runs smooth very slow on revs build up Now there is no miss idles steady great If I goose throttle it's ow to build up revs During a diagnostic reader KOEO 11. 10- 11. 11. End KOER 12. 22. 52. 12 22. 52. End Can someone tell me in layman terms these mean ie high idle fail ect. Meaning what is broken? Smart comments I have already heard thanks O an thanks for suggestions already Cheers Demmo Sent from my HUAWEI LYO-L02 using Tapatalk

Ok we can now remove pump out of equation New pump in. primed pump up to 200 kpa. Started run till motor warmed up Then it starts missing again grr line pressure stayed at about 210 kpa after shutdown So the last New ebay pump faulty so 3rd time lucky So now on hunt for a dizzy Have New leads coil a t.p.s and oxy sensor ordered So the elimination continues Thanks people for your input so far Cheers demmo Sent from my HUAWEI LYO-L02 using Tapatalk

Ok Will buy another pump while I am in perth today an I will grab a couple of metres of hose for vac just in case it split. It won't go astray as I still working on outback . Vaccume hose be 1/8 ? Hope repco know Sent from my HUAWEI LYO-L02 using Tapatalk

Yes Dave the pressure drops to zero but when engine runs it's steady at 200. Do you reckon it be a fuel prob or combination of electrical as well it now runs fine when it's cold but goes to shite once motor warms up Sent from my HUAWEI LYO-L02 using Tapatalk

Is the module replaceable or is it part of the dizzy. The dizzy tps an coil are the only things I haven't swapped/ replaced so far and the computer box on pillar does the wires go from module into the harness to com box an from there back to each injector As I can't see any junction in the wire harness. Thanks for your input too Cheers demmo Sent from my HUAWEI LYO-L02 using Tapatalk

Cheers mate. Ok update Pulled fuel rail off done what sparky Dave suggested turn key on off no fuel evident .Repeated couple times. Crank motor an fuel pumped through. Cranked about half minute check levels in jars ok Started it ran good after 4 or 5 mins started missing again Left it over night started let it idle for about 5 mins. And started missing again could this now be a electrical fault? Or have 1 several problems all at same time Cheers demmo Sent from my HUAWEI LYO-L02 using Tapatalk

Thanks guys. Will follow your suggestions. So I am right in assuming that the fuel rail should hold pressure same as the xh when motor off Cheers Demmo Sent from my HUAWEI LYO-L02 using Tapatalk

the fn saga continues pulled fuel lines out found dirt in lines so have blown all lines out have put another rail complete from the spares vehicle on another fuel filter on managed to start it running on 5 pump pressure shows 200 kpa has spark to all 6 cylinders so pull injector wires off start at no 6 no difference to running next pull no5 off an motor dies pulled injector rail off swapped injectors around put back on started but does not idle misses and wants to die manage to get revs up around 2000 and it seems fine turn off to restart turns over try's to start and when its turning over faster than starter motor then dies after 5 6 attempts it starts missing badly then it starts same sequence again ok at high revs refuses to run at lower revs and cuts out as now it wont idle long enough to pull wires off six injector pump pressure stays at 200 kpa when running but falls to 0 when motor stops if I blank return line off crank motor an as it fires an runs for the 20 secs or so fuel pressure reads around 400kpa motor stops running the pressure drops to 0 on the xh the fuel rail had a pressure of around 380kpa and maintained that pressure even when not running so have I somehow missed a non return valve between tank an pressure regulator or is the xh xg fuel systems the same ? o an dave you say "Dont over think it... XG Electrical systems are very simple.? ark me think you meant to say the operator is...........simple so can someone tell me where this idiot is going wrong an maybe some further suggestions to try before this white haired old fart relives guy fox night

thanks for reply I have 2 grey relays next to the booster so will try swapping them around. I think someone has played there before as the wires have push on spades connected straight to each relay an not into a black Bakelite holder like the relays next to battery anyway will go an re read your posts on your ute thanks again cheers Demmo

what was the outcome to problem as my xg is now doing similar so I have to start looking for ideas besides a box of matchers other suggestions welcomed

totally agree with you on that point ando 81 perhaps i should have added a bit more info as the cars alt. was upgraded it had a larger battery fitted with cradle extended also these mods were done in mid 70's . with today's advanced products i am just using led's and have the largest battery that fits without mods and wired through relays and separate switch to keep the fuzz happy cheers demmo