n00bus m@x1mus

If you have dodged it somehow and that butterfly doesnt seal 100% around the orrifice then thats ur problem right there. Or if youve left out a shaft seal and its sucking air in thru the side then thats just as bad. U will be surprised at how small of an opening will feed a 4.1L engine at idle. When fiddling with the tps arrangement on my megasquirt xflow with no isc i treid shutting the butterfly completely air tight and drilling a 1/8th hole in the butterfly same as a race carb has to help with idle mixtures and the thing idled at 950rpm. I needed a smaller hole to get it down to 800rpm so i used a 3.0mm bit and that worked well.

What now?

What??? U have a working EGR???

Ok so wtf.. gots me beat. Are u sure your tacho isnt out lol. If u block the isc circuit so the only air it is getting is past the butterfly, and then blocking the intake air up snuffs it then that means it has to be too much gap in the throttle body at idle. Can u remove the intake hose akd check that its sealing up shut when at idle?? Its not the kickdown cable holding it open slightly is it?

Yeah spout wire is the green plug near dizzy, if u unplug it it will run at base timing (10degs) and not get ignition advance from the ECU. This will eliminate any fault from the ECU regarding ignition, it will only control injector pulse. If it is running lean a idle it may increase idle a bit but it would have a horrible time starting and running when cold.

Disconnect the SPout wire and that should eliminate ecu/tfi fault. Asside from idling high how does it drive? Is it underpowered at all?

Different all round mate. The firewall shape is different, the bolt pattern for the booster is different the bolt pattern for the master cylinder, different length shafts and all. Its a no go mate.

Ok road test... what happens if you block the opening on the airbox with something? Jamb a bit if rag in there or something to try and snuff it. If it comes to a hault then u know there is no air leaks feeding it.

And to add to to that list... check your brakes are all releasing as they should and wheel bearings are smooth and tyre are alligned.

Check to see if anything is jambed in the throttle plate? Also go right over iy for leaks... dipstick, oil cap, no perished hoses anywhere?

Get some vice grips and crimp the hose to the ISC shut, it should die right off if your ISC is jambed open. If it is then just disconnect all the hoses and plug them in the manifold and throttle body and set your idle manually to 850ish in D when warm. It will drop to around 600rpm in R when cold so u need a little up your sleeve for cold mornings but not too high that its fighting your brakes at the lights.

Yeah i know. I went ages chasing my tail with ignition advance and injector flow trying to aleviate a horrible drop in power at 4200rpm.. it was like a rev limiter, back off to 4000rpm and it would spring into life again. Someone suggested i get new valve springs and hello 6k no probs.

Much of a muchness, they do rattle around a lot less, but look a bit uglier You will need an EB-ED handbrake cable to suit sedan if u use them brakes... or like me go pfftt!!! I stop with my feet not me hands!

He doesnt have the brakes... though ive got a couple sets floating around in the shed. If u want i can box a set up and your away.

Ive done rough tests using a set of household scales under my press and when squashed to the installed height i got around the 60lb mark for stock springs and around 90lbs for an old set of 110lb double crow springs. You could try a similar test to compare your digital unit.... is there any calibration instructions to follow?

Yes will fit the diff housing but the au rotor is smaller and runs a different caliper, if u keep the same brake package then it should all align. The handbreak cable is longer but.

You will also need to fit a metric end on the flexi line to the T block on the housing to the body, then u will need the wider lower rear control arm bushes in your bottom arms. And yes a tailshaft.

Oh and u will need ur rotors to suit ur calipers obviously

Yes but with mods.. i did the same thing fitting an eb diff but kept my xf disc brakes. You will need to redrill the pcd on the backing plates as the tube ends are rotated about 90 degs. Then u will need to grind away a bit of the caliper slide pin boss as the allingment is different and with fresh pad they rub the pad on one side a cant remember which. Just needs a couple mm filed off it to allow it to slide further on the pin and free up the pad. The xf hard line fits the housing but the flexy uses a different mounting setup. I just zip tied mine to the backing plate. Or im sure u could fit new ends onto you flexy hose as they are metric.

Good job mate, one question though... why didnt you build that extension out to the same size as the shed and build a permanent blast room in one end? Could double as a storage room when not in use.

So yes i need to know if its the cast iron singlerail bell that you use to fit a toploader onto a 250 xflow. A mates trying to track one down.

Cheers, i thought that was the case. And the holes would be just holes right... dont need a thread tapped in them cos it bolts in thru to the box?

Just cut them off and solder new ones on mate, if you talking the earth terminal that comes loose and breaks contact you could probs clean them right up and fuse some solder in there.

Hahaha... why bother with that, just wire up an old telecom operator panel and screw it down where the passanger seat used to be and keep a headset in the glovebox..... learn to read the pips and your set who needs guages. i reckon if you made up some patch cables and kept them in the glovebox you could be creative and even tune on the fly too

I just want to pop my phone into the cradle and hit the MSdroid app and have the dash board in HUD. plus if anyhting a miss you can just hit the datalog button and log all the way home. Then open up tunerstudio and see what was going on from there. Means you can find out whats going on or even tune at any time as long as you have your phone in your pocket. For $65 its worth having imo.