Mixalis

That's ridiculous, i remember when you first posted it up on FAForums a while back when you were getting the standard motor together and planning on building up the proper one later on, you weren't kidding aye hahaha thats insane

Cheers mate that sounds like a plan then, will get on to it next weekend i reckon. Weird this problem just comes up now after all these years, bloody datto gearbox!

Well, quickly got the car up with a mate and tightened the bolts, as suspected car was back to normal. Dropped him off home, gave some RPM, rattled loose again.... So going to put some loctite on for round 2, any suggestions as to what would be the best for this application? cheers boys

wow hows that for budget, very cool mate!

Looking at it from this perspective it's primarily a street car and I reckon a 6 series would be better suited/reliable for long drives and the such, but I'll do a bit more research with the 7al2 if it can be set up for street reliably then I can definitely save a bit of money there Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hahaha rob mate they're from some older combos, the 7al2 was from his XY from memory back in the early 90's, all the msd were from old drag setups that he's held onto. You would be surprised tho they are not worth much second hand and I would happily sort one out on the corty if it was street able but apparently the 7al's need good circulation and proper choice in coil or else you start killing things The digitals are unusable tho apparently because it required the use of one type of coil that is not intended for extended use ie street driving. But yeh that's how old school this 7al2 is from way back then, chip rev limiters etc Even brand new if you compared the 6al2 to the 7al2 I don't think there is a huge difference in price tho especially if you buy from usa The way it is now if the 60's could be sorted with a proper gearbox, c4 with around 2500 cobverter, I think it should have mid high 14's in it But yeh still stock suspension got a bit to sort out over the holidays Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edit: said stumper instead of rob

Well that's 3 that have said that so looks like I got to get up and finish taking off that plate and fix it. Cheers Dave legend mate! Hahaha mate in a dilemma it's either c4 and go fast at the track or single rail for some good cruising Got to sort out ignition as well, got a couple of dads old msd's, on digital 7 that needs a coil that's unusable on the street... Then there's the non programmable 7al2 but apparently that ones not recommended either so thinking of selling both and getting 6al2 programmable, will be working it out closer to the day Anyway ended up going 15.0 with this combo it can't launch for shit tho 60 footers still about 2.35 which is what it was doing when it was running 17.3's... Dave come up with a nos kit so we an grenade this box hahaha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Was thinking this too, started taking off the inspection plate and ran out of time yesterday, thanks for the response tho

What a weapon looks clean as!

Cheers Jason, reason i asked is cause it sounds remarkably similar to the crossflow cause yours always had a different tone to it, should be good to see it run some numbers

Ey Jase still using the same exhaust system from the crossflow setup? I know the extractors are the same but what about the rest; 3" with hooker aerochamber from memory?? Cheers

You got it running with the Barra Tim?? Pics and vids!

I only run mine for the track, from memory I just went and bought wheel nuts from SuperCheap, forgot the size but was a while ago. They seem to have worked fine both times. Forgot the price tho i think aroun $20, can't remember if that was for one or both sides tho sorry mate hope that helps, was a while ago

Here you go, from the FB page [/url] And not 100% where this was from but ill throw it here anyway

This is going to be spastic! Very interested to see how you end up going on the tune side of things. Have heard a few people make (very) general statements calling E85 a street able methanol fuel; having similar properties when it comes to octane, cooling etc. Point I'm trying to make is it will be awesome to see how you get this all to work on what is a pretty hi comp motor for a boost build. Something like this would be a good gauge for people wanting to do hi comp E85 turbo builds for street engines for example. So you decided against running that water injection you were saying much earlier? Just going to use the methanol to cool the charge? Keep it up mate really good build!

Oh wow! This is going to be off chops! Cant wait

Hahahaha! In all honesty tho can't wait to see how this goes, what cam were you running in this motor again? Got to have a look thru your old thread

What engine mounts and did it clear the crossmember?

Same here, cable wasn't opening carby completely, unfortunately happened at the drags and was leaning out, blew the head gasket. Had to bend the pedal to get it all working properly now, no adjustment in the cable allowed me to get full throttle without it tugging on the throttle at idle

Good info here as usual!

I remember when i had the stock very low comp crossy, one of the best things i did was bumping the base timing from 6 to 12 degrees, always filled with 98 as well. Ass dyno said big hp gains. $0 as i was filling up with 98 anyway. Obviously works for everyone but a great move for those just starting to muck around with a crossy Definitely seeing the benefits on a dyno now with the new setup recently.

I haven't done it but pretty sure having spoken to a few people that the benefits are all definitely all there. You won't see the same huge advantages in boosted applications but nat asp it would still be all positives. The much higher octane rating alone and the huge knock resistance will allow you to dial in a lot more timing which crossflows respond very well too. There are heaps of benefits, there will probably be others than can give you a much more in depth explanation but yeah. Mines pretty high comp (around 12:1) and i run on 98 + octane boosted to 100 (wish i didn't go flat tops but oh well all done now) which means i have always struggled with pinging and timing, but last week managed to get it on a dyno to check all the A/F ratios and all. Moved the base timing from around 7-8 degrees (hard to tell exactly) to 10 degrees, so around a 2-3 degree shift. It picked up 4rwhp peak and shifted it slightly earlier in the rev range, but more importantantly it picked up an average of around 26rwhp throughout the good part of rev range before tapering off. This was the only movement in timing i did and stopped there because it was the first time the car had actually been working in like 2 years so i left with a smile haha! (Definitely a lot more in it just wasn't up for exploring it on that day, 10 minutes on and off the dyno) So with E85, on a high comp motor like yours as well, i reckon the extra head room from the higher octane rating alone would allow you to muck around with the timing in small increments and see pretty noticeable gains i would think. Just from my experience tho hope some of the others can add as well should be a good thread! Michael

That's insane next ones a 10! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is insane Jason top stuff

Got a similar set up on mine, flat top hypertechs on an iron head crossy, if you punch the numbers into a compression calculator you'll see that we are running pretty big compression. I have already gone thru one head gasket running base timing at around 12 degrees from memory on 98 in hot weather. And I've got a mild cam in it as well so same recipe for disaster, unfortunately engine is together and way too late to change so have to make do with what i have. At the moment I'm trying to solve the pinging issue what i have found is the locking the timing at 8 degrees (removing vacuum advance) really makes it work well up till around 4000-4500rpm. I haven't tried bumping the timing up to fill the gap up top but I'm sure there is room for it as the timing is set really low now. Also just bought the wynns version of the nylon octane booster, i.e. same 70 point booster that should bump 98 octane to 100 and hopefully that will solve some of my problems for now. Need to get it on a dyno tho to get proper indications but from what you've said so far definitely bin the 95 it will not work, 98 minimum octane booster if needed. Also removing the vacuum advance leaving the timing to naturally advance as the engine revs seems to have made it behave much better, but yeh i think thats all a debatable topic until you try a few things out. Let us know how you go and what you test out!