roKWiz

Thanks so much everyone with your information. I'll check around those yellow wires from the alternator, (they were a bit frayed looking) before I grab the battery and report back. I'm in one of those towns where the local mechanic / battery seller / Feed lot store is only open Monday to Friday. Battery looked pretty old and might have suffered from overcharging as the water levels were below the plates. My fault for not checking early.

Yeah thanks deankdx, I did have a check of the wiring around the starter and battery terminals, under the dash, relays and fuses but can not place the charge wire your referring to. Alternator to battery wire ?

These plastic centres I painted with chrome ish paint, bought some small stainless bolt covers (trucking supply places) and painted a red centre for contrast. Would be great to find a 3D Ford badge to glue over the centre middle. XF shown.

Thanks to all, I'll check it out.

I must check this out on mine as I loose power when I flash the high beam when my lights are on. Luckily I don't do much night driving. ketspano, which circuit breaker do you refer to, (under the dash) next to the blinker can ?

Yes, guy reckon most over tighten the carb down, bending the base plate. Full kit was 88 bucks, rebuild 200 including fitting a good SH auto choke. That vacuum advance might be right for yours if you are not using a EST dizzy.

Two more pics. Hope it helps. FYI. Had it rebuilt by Carburettor Services Burwood, Sydney and bought the kit from MLP Carburettors Reservoir, Melbourne.

This thing run so much better now too. here some pics. below....rebuilt below...rebuilt installed Below....EGR side before rebuild Below.. Can't remember where I found this guide.

Deankdx, I just had my 34 adm rebuilt by a place In Sydney, I took some close up pics of it while I had it off and back on the car, I'll get some pics loaded here later today. Usual suspects of bad idling, (vacuum leak, excess fuelled jet) flat spots on acceleration (accel. pump) 6 pumps to start (auto choke replace) also carb overtightening on the manifold causing vacuum leaks at the base.

Thanks Mr Polson, leads not to long, I changed all the old rubbish leads with a standard black Bosch replacement set. I don't think the OEM Ford coils are available anymore Is there a good coil replacement for an electronic dizzy which now doesn't use the EST which I'm about to unplug as I bought the new one listed above off ebay. Not sure where I will plug the vacuum advance to either yet as the old ADM Weber has got so many ports.

Looking at it today I reckon I'll move that crap coil from its heat source, not happy with the coil lead running along side the block resting on top of the fuel pump. What do you guys recommend for a standard basic coil replacement something like GT40, HEC716 ??

Whats the chances of finding two widened to 7 inches steel S pac wheels.

Yeah, nasty, fortunately just the shaft within the dizzy, not dizzy within the block.

I can feel sideways movement in the dizzy shaft. So I haven't done any timing yet until carby has a new kit through it first. Two strange things which happens are when the fan blower is on and I accelerate, blower goes off until reaching cruising speed and if i flash headlights at highway speed it momentarily lacks power. Coil ?? earthing ??

Thanks deankdk, Much appreciated advice. Yeah, probably doesn't help knowing the carby is in need of a rebuild (I will do that first as I just got the kit for it) When I bought the van I replaced the cap and rotor, plugs, leads and checked for vacuum leaks, thinking this was its only problem but I've traced most of the problems back to the coil and EST. After I did all this I thought I had a blocked cat causing the lack of power.