adrianphu123

i always thought XD-E-F-G are more or less the same. They're a bit longer and you need to trim to fit anyway.

I got a set of Lucas ones off a member here and the glass has the ford part number on them so they're just as good i think. Get a set of good reflectors, Philips X-Treme vision globes and you'll never turn back. I just recently did a trip from Sydney to Coffs harbour via Tamworth which involved a bit of night driving and never felt like I lacked lighting even at 100km/h on a country road

maybe move them out a bit and see if it fills the gap more, it looks like they're recessed a bit too much

How even is the flow in the EFI manifold? I moved from carby to EFI manifolds on LPG only and it felt a lot better. I got a few tips: Remove the power steering Merge collector makes a big difference over standard formed collectors, seems to have quietened it down at idle. T5 gearbox and 3.23/3.27 differential puts you in a better rev range compared to the standard 2.92

oh and loctite the bolts, as they will come loose when you least want them to.

one of the simpliest mods i accidentally stumbled upon is to replace the stock shifter stick with an aftermarket one. The factory shifter stick mounts with a rubber isolator which introduces a bit of play but when using an aftermarket one and mounting it metal to metal onto the shifter, eliminates that play.

I think i got an XB manual box from another forum member a while back and slipped in fine.

I just dug up my ABS invoice, part number is MF121-10-03. You only need one as its for body - diff hose

yeah i think the clutch does sit higher than the brake, although 3 inches is a lot

you might have the wrong cable, did you route it through the crossmember? the 4 and 5 speed single rail had the fork coming out the drivers side so the cable would be much shorter, you might have the cable for that application

I believe they can be reused

if you have the dash out, you've done most of the heavy lifting. From what i remember, you have to go to the engine side and undo the nuts that hold the studs for the heater box/air con/fan assembly to the firewall. The whole box should then slide off the firewall in the cabin.

Hey guys, Just wanted to know if XF and XG brake vacuum boosters are the same? thanks, adrian

Hey guys, Has anyone replaced the bearings in an XF alternator? If so, what part numbers were they and how hard is it to replace? Sounds like I have a bad bearing somewhere as its starting to sound like a few loose marbles in there. thanks, adrian

disconnect the cable from the carby, then you can isolate the problem to either the carby linkage/shaft or the cable itself.

right next to the throttle body on the plenum is the EGR valve. Just block it off with a plate.

Hey guys, My crossmember is buckling up and backwards when i jack it up, im looking to replace the bottom plate, as well as beat the side of the crossmember forward so its perpendicular to the ground. Just wondering if i can replace the bottom of the crossmember with the crossmember plate designed for an XW and XY. The link below is what im looking to replace with. http://www.fordmuscleparts.com.au/shop/products/show/id/4988 thanks adrian

Hey guys, I need a bit of advice as to the best way to deal with this rust section i have. Its on the inside lip of the rear wheel arch. Pics are included: Although it looks like it, theres no rust inside, its just all dirt. the full extent of the rust And the red arrow shows the rough location of the rust. I can just get the grinder in there, but im having trouble getting the welding gun into some spots. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, adrian

I've noticed the tip of my welder is recessed about 3mm to the nozzle tip so im going to cut about 5mm off the back of the nozzle to get the tip to stick out more which should help me get in there a bit better. With the downward gun angle required and how closed off the welding area is trapping the gas, i should be able to get away with a bit more tip exposure. Im having trouble picturing how i can cut downwards perpendicular to the wheel arch without cutting through the outer panel. Any tips? i have an electric die grinder but no cutting discs for it yet. As for the rear axle, yeah it does get in the way but i think if i support the car via the rails, it'll allow the diff to lower to its lowest setting and give me enough room.

The OCD in me wouldnt let me do that!

is there room on the front timing cover to tap a hole for a fitting?

I dont think an oil drain to the sump plug is a good idea. That port would feel the full weight of all the oil in the sump and prevent oil from freely returning to the sump. What about tapping the fuel block off plate if you're not running a mechanical fuel pump? plus you can remove it to drill.

i had that problem a while ago, it was an issue with the cluster. I took it to a VDO specialist and he knew what the problem was right away. Got the whole cluster reconditioned so they fixed the broken odo while they were at it.

I out one out of an DC LTD apparently. I was under the impression that i would have to change the lower rear trailing arm bushes too, but I didnt have to? Just compare the spacing on the E series differential you are using to your old one. Upper bushes should be exactly the same. The tailshaft is different to the XF one, as the XF one has a yoke style pinion while the E series one I used had a flange style attachment on the pinion. The E series tailshaft I used slipped straight in to the T5, not sure about other transmissions or whather you need a specific one for auto or manual. Use the rear section of the handbrake cable out of an E series (which is a 2 piece) and use the current XF front section with the adjuster. You need an adapter to attach the E series body-differential brake hose to the current XF hard line on the body. Brake calipers rotors and pads are different from the XF so you cant transfer them over. The watts link will fit straight back on.

i've seen them on the wall in some engineering supply shops