gregaust

You'd still have the added weight of the drums . But I will say the rollers make them spin over very freely . I've done quite a few roller C6's and definitely worthwhile IMO Have seen mention of 2/10's saving from rollerising a C6

All that C4 roller stuff best off machining up yourself . Saves heaps bucks . 6 clutches in top gear holds a lot . I've not had the need for a 7 YET Requires new snap ring groove cut in the drum

Yes C6 is good , I've done many. Best for BigBlocks though IMO.

Yes , C10 is a fictitious name for a Pan fill C4 lol . Don't get me started . The T400 is a definite good option for all round IMO. As mentioned the C4 will take lots power but does need good gear in it .

I'm chasing one of the Scott Drake painted deep pans if anyone has one

Depends on the exact case you have . Some are 1/4 if an 80's trans known as a C5 , looks same as C4 though. If a normal C4 they are 1/8 NPS . There is only one company I know of that does the exact fitting . Fragola 481671BL or FRA481671BL depending on who has them and how they number their parts . Failing that 1/8NPT and recut the tread to a straight thread and machine for the o'ring is how I've done many Ian Boetcher at Ipswich I believe is a Fragola dealer

On the street most , go a 3 speed . C4 built right will do it ok . A T400 if you wanted options for more in the future

If that is right about CRS using BA caliper on stock disc? , That is BAD . The BA calipers are designed for a 28mm rotor , the earlier rotors are too thin. Might be ok while the pads are new .

Those screw out , anti clockwise from memory

I called Motospecs few weeks ago and they no longer do the 3201 kit or the roller top . The Newcom link doesn't;t seem to work unfortunately , might chase up pedders see what the deal is there .. Otherwise will be following the instructions here and machining. The roller tops used to have a washer that went between the bearing and sector shaft , you guys do that ? From memory the roller bearings in the top cover are the same as the two lower sector shaft bearings ?

I'd need to see ,ore proof , but YES I think so

No, XB mast won't fit XC booster . Way different bolt pattern. An XC booster and master complete will bolt up to XB though

Yeah have a look at some of the commodore pulleys are smaller diameter could be a goer

Be careful, the FG has a different flange

Yep 3/8 UNF . Use a normal nut and shake proof washer. I say normal nut because a nyloc can sometimes be too high and hits block plate. Same reason for shake proof washer they are thin. Some converters do use 7/16 but IMO not necessary. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Nice info Gerg. Thee are some differences in the gearsets but hard to find all the variations

Yes 10-24 or 3/16 UNC . all same

Sure I read somewhere someone did the T700 setup.

But are they really needed on a Falcon? I've never used them. Only ever seen on Corty's and Escorts. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Since the clips have self tapping type bottoms. What about drilling the holes bit bigger. Use the type of plastic clips that push into a hole and spread as the screw goes in to retain the clip. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yep , watched Ken's Corty run last night, tough as We were there racing a friends 393 ZG I've been involved with , it picked up nice with some traction, 11.3 @ 120.9 and drove home is always good

Why not forged . These day they work fine if set up with correct clearances As for Hypers the same , correct ring caps and clearance all good . BUT to the 6500-6800 I'd be using forged

When I said right I meant right side of car or drivers side. Adjacent to water pump bolt is a flat area possibly there ? Behind alternator.

Front right near w/pump?

That would be pretty tough setup on the street. Pretty good power for the setup IMO. The smaller 2V heads, dual plane and even that cam with 393 cubes is encouraging it to make power down a bit lower. Sure hope that air filter was removed for the Dyno. I can see at least 15 HP there. So that intake and carb picked up 17 RWKW. Not a bad gain but the dual plane would be nicer I'd think drivability wise?particularly with a manual to get it going. Looking at the original. graph looks as if power is just starting to nose over at the top is why the Dyno guy took it to 6k . Use the Dyno for what it is, a tuning tool. Hard to calculate exact drive line losses but the 416 to 520 is a very conservative estimate at best. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk