Crazy2287

Well first we need to find out operating requirements for the circuit. So you want to turn off the car. Shut off the headlights switch but have them on a delay, get out of the car, and lock it, and have the headlights stay on for a predetermined time before shutting off automatically. You only want this to happen when the vehicle is NOT running. and you only want it to happen at night. I would recommend the easiest way to do this would be have a parallel circuit controlling the headlight relay, that operates off a momentary switch. So, all the cars systems operate normally. You turn off the headlights, and they turn off. Before you get out of the car, you push the momentary switch which activates the delay circuit, turning the headlights on for the predetermined time. Alternatively, if you push the switch before you turn the headlights turn off, the headlights will remain on, as the parallel circuit keeps the relay energized regardless of the position of the headlight switch. Ill just regurgitate something out of randomly chosen components. This would need to be bread boarded (prototyped) to ensure it works before building it and fitting to the car. You'll need to switch the relay to be negative triggered. Or use a separate relay in parallel with the factory headlight relay. A 10kohm potientiometer and a 1kohm 1/4w resister in series, and both paralleled with a 10uf electrolytic capacitor, this makes the delay circuit, varying the pot will vary the delay. One end is hooked to ground. the other is hooked to both the base of a bc555 NPN transistor, and a momentary switch. The other end of the momentary switch is to VCC (12v) to trigger the circuit. The collector is connected to the relay negative, via a diode (may be omitted depending on the final circuit) and the emitter is connected to earth. here is some more info. i just did a google search. https://www.homemade-circuits.com/simple-delay-timer-circuits-explained/

Could be done with about 1dollarydoo worth of electronic components if you were really keen.

Keep it up cuzzy!

Its a setup like new cars use. The slave is part of the thrust bearing, gets rid of the clutch fork all together

Could fk that fork pff and go a csc/htb instead of push type slave...

Hmm, I hear the best way is to freez it. Source yourself some dry ice, cover the tar in the dryice, and wait a minute or 2 for it to get really fkn cold. Then give it a few taps with a hammer and it should smash to bits. Never done this, but this is the general method people use so im told.

I'll do some R+D on this shortly and come up with a solution for everyone. Will be sure to make a DIY whenever it happens.

Yes, Fuck yes. good stuff, I love when people upload this stuff. Bloody awesome! Thank you for sharing!

I got a price from mal wood ages ago before i did the hyd clutch conversion on my t5 and just remember that the conversion was gonna cost far more than id ever pay. I just chucked the 5k number there as a placeholder but if anyone has a current cost on t56 conversion for crossy im ibteresred to hear what it is. I think ya can get dogshift gearsets to convert t5's for 2-3k and id be more likely to do that, add an oil cooler And keep the lightweight t5 box.

Fk yeah mate, Unless your worried about weight those t56's are a superior box. I'd be running one on my crossy if it was not like a 5k conversion.

If you dont want to take my word for it. Dont mind if dogs get kicked, And dont care what the gearbox oem says. Here is some more good info from the "otherside" just to help solidify the wc t5 oil debacle https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/how-to-i-d-your-t5-and-choose-the-correct-fluid.130888/

Everything you need is in here

Not too worried about that, Could verobord one. Just interested in the schematic and theory of operation for the final design. Did it work and allow you full sweep of the instrument cluster? stuff like that.

Thread mine. Yes, that's right. I'm slow, lazy and I procrastinate. I got this sorted. And here is a walkthrough: http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=65858

Hello there, Making this as sort of a news spot for Megasquirt ECU related things. Try to keep the off topic questions out of here, If you need help with your megasquirt or choosing a setup make a new thread and i'll come over there and help, if you don't get a reply withing a day PM me with the link to make sure i find it. I'll start with: I'm interested in very soon purchasing a RS232 to bluetooth adapter. For those in the loop it's been about for a while, but the big thing on this front at the moment is there is finally some reliable dashboard software to interface the Megasquirt with an android powered Tablet (slate PC) or mobile phone (such as galaxy S3) Wireless, 100m range and awesome. The hardware required can be purchased pre-configured so it's basically plug and play. and im interested in purchasing some of these units asap. After expressions of interest. Organize a bulk buy right here for people interested. it will work out between $60 and $70 bucks inc postage for the RS232-bluetooth adapter. the software is +$10 from the android play store (but there is a free trial) I'll be between Brisbane, Canberra and Sydney over the next few weeks so logistics for those areas is sorted. More info: http://tunerstudio.com/index.php/shadowloggerms http://tunerstudio.com/index.php/shadowdashmsmenu

Im also interested to see what the final design was to get a resistor sender to talk to the factory capacitive signal input.

You said... Take the gear oil out of the T5 Open the bottle of DexIII And put it in the T5.

Rawdeal. If you intend on putting transmax z in your tremec t5, then i will be forced to extend my dog kicking clause to inc any dogs in your possession for a maximum penalty of 10 kicks per year for 20 years.

You could try a sail switch. It's a micro switch with a large surface area attached to its actuating lever. Air blowing against it actuates the switch. If you inserted this into the oncomming airstream, and did a little R+D you could make this act as a sensor to turn the fans on, when AC is enabled, Whenever there is insufficient forward airflow. I'd recommend using a delay circuit though, so as not to cause constant false triggering of the fans. And ensure you dontt put it in the path of the airflow created by the thermo fans, as this would create a latching circuit.

First, Just use a good quality DEXIII. I say again. IF YOU HAVE A NON-World-Class series T5 TRANSMISSION, USE DEXIII OIL! Tremec stipulate this in their service manual and info packs on the transmission and this info is available online, on the tremec website. Whats that, you just arrived in this thread and you've got gear oil in your world class T5???? TAKE IT OUT AND FILL WITH DEXIII, OR I WILL COME TO YOUR HOUSE AND KICK YOUR DOG, AND IF YOU DON'T HAVE A DOG, I WILL BUY YOU ONE ON YOUR BIRTHDAY, WAIT TILL IT GROWS UP, THEN COME TO YOUR HOUSE AND KICK IT. If you mechanic friend tells you to put gear oil in. They are WRONG. If your local transmission "specialist" fills it with gear oil, You have my permission to leave them a scathing review on Google(tm) Here: http://www.tremec.com/anexos/TRSM-T5-0510-R1_173.pdf Section 2, Para 2-4 2-4. APPROVED LUBRICANT. Most T5 transmission models use DexronÒ II automatic transmission fluid. Refer the vehicle owner’s manual or service manual for lubricant specifications. CAUTION Do not mix different bands or types of transmission lubricant. DO NOT USE GEAR OIL IN THE T5 TRANSMISSION SINCE THIS MAY DAMAGE THE BLOCKING RING MATERIAL. Step 1, Pick up a bottle of DexIII Step 2, Turn it over and read "suitable where DEX1,2,3 is specified" Step 3, TAKE THE GEAR OIL OUT, AND PUT THIS IN YOUR T5 (Disclaimer: as long as its WC spec) Okay, sorry, Tangent. Moving on. I post the information below not as a statement of fact, but simply as information. It should be cross referenced and you should draw your own conclusion as to the effectiveness of oil additives. Here i refer to Nulon g70 and it's PTFE additive claims. Disclaimer: I have used Nulon g70 in my own T5 with DexIII, And was once an advocate for it. I have never been able to fully make up my mind about this as i "felt" i experienced smoother shifting with the g70. But was never able to actually substantiate this claim. My biggest "Don't do it" for this topic has always been "If this stuff is as good as it says, then the engineers that spend their careers designing and mixing oils, would be putting it in there themselves. Who am i to decide that these engineers don't know what they are doing, and take it upon myself to tamper with their product?" The TL:DR for the below is: PTFE has no place as an additative, the company that created the compound said so. No independent study has ever proven benefits to it's use" Where it says "Slick 50" it's pretty much an american version of a PTFE additive and with that i give you this: Slick 50 was subject to a class action lawsuit and at least another independent one.DuPont refused to sell them PTFE so they used cheap clone PTFE that was rubbish. Not that PTFE particles have any place in an engineOut of the frying pan …One friction modifier whose efficacy is the center of much attention is polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE or TFE, for short, the generic name for DuPont Chemical's Teflon), of which there is a family of similar yet distinct formulations. PTFEs boast the lowest coefficient of friction of any known material. Back in 1980, DuPont told everybody that their studies showed PTFE offered "no significant benefits as an engine additive." This statement set off a storm of controversy that still has DuPont spokespeople walking on eggs. However, you will notice that none of the PTFE additive suppliers are allowed to use the word "Teflon" in their advertisements or product information.For most people "Teflon" calls up the mental image of a no-stick frying pan. PTFE engine oil treatments work quite a bit differently than the PTFE in a cooking utensil, however. When coating a frying pan the metal is spotlessly cleaned in prepara tion for the application of PTFE. This situation is never going to happen spontaneously in a motor, no matter what you use as a pour-in cleaning agent.As a motor oil additive, PTFE powder is held in suspension in a liquid carrier. Because most (if not all) PTFE resins are more or less tailored for their end use, and because few (if any) of the available powders have been tailored for use as an oil additive, PTFE oil additive marketers must select a PTFE that was compounded for some other purpose (such as frying pans, wire insulation, etc.).Powders come in different particle sizes, with the smaller sizes typically costing a bit more than the larger sizes. For those who can not afford (or find a source for) the size they want, custom grinding houses can take a less expensive 400 to 500 micron powder, freeze it with liquid nitrogen, and grind it to whatever size is needed. Most of the PTFE oil additives use a particle anywhere from 20 microns down to the sub-micron size.The very characteristic of PTFE that makes it so slippery also makes it tough to get it where the action is in the motor. For this reason, the carrier liquid is often an affinity agent that bonds the PTFE to the friction areas. These take the form of chemicals such as tricresyl phosphate (TCP) and triaryo phosphate (TAP). The use of the right affinity agent has the positive side effect of boosting lubrication performance whether or not there is any PTFE involved. Some of the affinity agents are so tenacious that it is jokingly said you could lubricate your engine with water if it had enough affinity agent in it. Because of this, some high-performance oils (such as Synthoil) are blended to include affinity agents from the start.Listening to some of the claims made for PTFE you might get the impression that it is the solution to almost any problem you might have, real or imagined. So why aren't the Big Oil companies putting it in their products?Most of the oil companies are reluctant to discuss what is or is not in their oil. Off the record, however, many oil company spokespeople express concern that as a solid, PTFE does not stay in suspension forever. If the oil sits for too long the PTFE will settle out; an unacceptable situation for the oil companies we talked to. And as difficult as it is to get the PTFE in suspension in ideal situations, once combustion by-products and oxidation begin to change the chemical composition of the oil, keeping the PTFE in suspension poses a whole new set of problems.Most oil company engineers also cited additive package balance as a major consideration. Whether talking about pour point depressants or oxidation inhibitors, each felt that whatever the gain in friction reduction the price was too high in other areas of lubricant performance.If a PTFE additive sounds good to you, the best bet is to contact the manufacturer for test data that can be correlated against other known good lubricants. The Sequence IIID, Sequence VD, and L-38 tests previously mentioned, for example, are industry-wide standards that readily allow comparison against traditional lubricants. The manufacturer that can back up its claims with test results is a lot more convincing than the one with beautiful sales brochures filled with unsubstantiated claims.Slick 50 and other engine oil additives supposedly reduce engine wear and increase fuel efficiency.You may have heard the commercial or seen the ad:Multiple tests by independent laboratories have shown that when properly applied to an automotive engine, Slick 50 Engine Formula reduces wear on engine parts. Test results have shown that Slick 50 treated engines sustained 50 percent less wear than test engines run with premium motor oil alone.There are about 50 other products on the market which make similar claims, many of them being just duplicate products under different names from the same company. The price for a pint or quart of these engine oil additives runs from a few dollars to more than $20. Do these products do any good? Not much. Do they do any harm. Sometimes.What's in these miracle lubricants, anyway? If they're so wonderful, why don't car manufacturers recommend their usage? Why don't oil companies get into the additive business? Where are these studies mentioned by Petrolon (Slick 50)? Probably in the same file cabinet as the tobacco company studies proving the health benefits of smoking.The basic ingredient is the same in most of these additives: 50 weight engine oil with standard additives. The magic ingredient in Slick 50, Liquid Ring, Matrix, QM1 and T-Plus from K-Mart is Polytetrafluoroethylene. Don't try to pronounce it: call it PTFE. But don't call it Teflon, which is what it is, because that is a registered trademark. Dupont, who invented Teflon, claims that "Teflon is not useful as an ingredient in oil additives or oils used for internal combustion engines." But what do they know? They haven't seen the secret studies done by Petrolon (Slick 50).PTFE is a solid which is added to engine oil and coats the moving parts of the engine.However, such solids seem even more inclined to coat non-moving parts, like oil passages and filters. After all, if it can build up under the pressures and friction exerted on a cylinder wall, then it stands to reason it should build up even better in places with low pressures and virtually no friction.This conclusion seems to be borne out by tests on oil additives containing PTFE conducted by the NASA Lewis Research Center, which said in their report, "In the types of bearing surface contact we have looked at, we have seen no benefit. In some cases we have seen detrimental effect. The solids in the oil tend to accumulate at inlets and act as a dam, which simply blocks the oil from entering. Instead of helping, it is actually depriving parts of lubricant" (Rau).In defense of Slick 50, tests done on a Chevy 6 cylinder engine by the University of Utah Engineering Experiment Station found that after treatment with the PTFE additive the test engine's friction was reduced by 13.1 percent, the output horsepower increased from 5.3 percent to 8.1 percent, and fuel economy improved as well. Unfortunately, the same tests concluded that "There was a pressure drop across the oil filter resulting from possible clogging of small passageways." Oil analysis showed that iron contamination doubled after the treatment, indicating that engine wear increased (Rau).the FTC and Slick 50In 1997, three subsidiaries of Quaker State Corp. (the makers of Slick 50) settled Federal Trade Commission charges that ads for Quaker State's Slick 50 Engine Treatment were false and unsubstantiated. According to the FTC complaint, claims such as the following made in Slick 50 ads falsely represented that without Slick 50, auto engines generally have little or no protection from wear at start-up and commonly experience premature failure caused by wear:"Every time you cold start your car without Slick 50 protection, metal grinds against metal in your engine.""With each turn of the ignition you do unseen damage, because at cold start-up most of the oil is down in the pan. But Slick 50's unique chemistry bonds to engine parts. It reduces wear up to 50% for 50,000 miles.""What makes Slick 50 Automotive Engine Formula different is an advanced chemical support package designed to bond a specially activated PTFE to the metal in your engine."In fact, the FTC said, "most automobile engines are adequately protected from wear at start-up when they use motor oil as recommended in the owner's manual. Moreover, it is uncommon for engines to experience premature failure caused by wear, whether they have been treated with Slick 50 or not.

I assume modern ECU's take care of this as the ECU is aware of the cars speed. Or perhaps a temp switch near or on the condenser. I'm not sure.

Try this. When low speed is active relay one energises and feeds power to fan 1, which then runs via relay high's relaxed state pole and into fan 2. The fans run in series. When high speed is active, relay ground sends Fan 1's negative to ground, and relay high switches poles, sending 12v to fan 2. Both fans are run in parallel. The piss yellow diode may not be needed, It is there to ensure that relay low is switched when high speed is on. The input from A/C is protected with a diode to prevent 12v flowing back into the A/C switching unit, in case whatever is switching that has a grounded off state. I choose to use constant 12v rather than switched as this will prevent the fans from failing at the loss of a single relay. If relay low or ground fails you can still get Fan 2. If relay high fails you can still use Fan 1 Alternatively you can run the AC signal into the low speed switch, it's probably not necessary to run the fans at high speed for the a/c. Be aware that the a/c signal needs to turn off when the car is moving, and on when the car is stopped. Otherwise your fans will never turn off when the a/c is on regardless of forward speed.

Cheers, Yeah these ones. http://www.tiperformance.com.au/products/bosch-42lb-440cc-968-green-injectors/ The price you have on these is bloody awesome. I'm half expecting them to be the Chinese copies when they get here. I'll be snaffeling up a set on payday.

You heard of anyone having issues running ethanol through the Bosch 42lb's?

Molybdenum grease (assembly lube) or some thick motor oil would be fine.