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Ricky Neinei King

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Ricky Neinei King last won the day on August 5 2018

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About Ricky Neinei King

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    Member
  • Birthday 04/09/1990

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  • Location
    Christchurch, New Zealand
  • Interests
    Fabricating Fords!

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  1. Ricky Neinei King

    XF ute Barra conversion, tiptronic gearbox included!

    Ye 'old Barra is back home, boys! Yes, that is a pool of tranny fluid on the floor She's dusty as fuck, but essentially the same as the last time I fucked with her. Untouched for coming up two years now.... For that whole time, she's been maybe two days worth of work away from starting up and running. All she needs is a couple of EFI worthy fuel lines (Which I can source from a factory XG ute at the wreckers), a little bit of wiring, and some (ok, a lot) of reassembly. Beyond that, it's a little bit of rust repair. a lot of panel and paint, a little upholstery, a solid 4 inch ride height drop, and finally a couple of hoops to jump through to get it certified-aka-engineered, ready for street duty. My current mind frame is to finish it off in as efficient a manner as possible, minimizing expenses and therefore maximizing profit when I move her on to the next owner. I guesstimate the whole ordeal owing me around 6-7K NZD when I sell, and depending on how nice she comes out, I'll start with an asking price of anywhere between 12-15k NZD... heck, if she is as mint as I hope she ends up, I may even get cheeky for the first couple of weeks and ask as much as 18k and see if someone bites
  2. You know what, dropping both your tie rod end AND your lower arm would certainly be better than only dropping the tie rod end... its undesirably changes your top and lower a-arm relationship, effecting your 'camber curve' and roll center, but probably only a little... fixing your bump steer would definitely be a worthy trade
  3. Lol yeah, sorry for the novel! What I'm saying is, your easiest option (other than raising her up) is to slap in the rack end spacers from GKTech, and see how she feels down the road. I would definitely start by trying the spacers with no extra shims, on their minimum setting - the guy you quoted was compensating for a lowered rack, you're just trying to compensate for angled arms. Hopefully you'll eliminate your bump steer with a fraction of the spacing he had to use I have GKTech roll center adjusters in my Laurel drift car (the CNC alloy spacer between the knuckle/hub/spindle, and lower control arm/tie rod). Two birds with one stone by both leveling my arms and increasing lock for max drifto. They sell top notch stuff at damn good prices, highly recommend
  4. Ugh, good old steering geometry, always a bastard! My latest dealings with bump steer was an F100 that had Gen 2 Camaro suspension up front. The previous owner had it build with a nicely lowered stance in mind, but the current owner wanted it at stock height. The builder had somehow managed to shove in the tallest, heaviest duty springs I've ever dealt with, which were so unsuited to the setup that they jacked the whole truck up as high as the suspension would allow, leaving the arms pressed so hard up into the factory droop stops that the truck rode with literally no droop, and virtually no cushion what so ever. The main problem for us was getting the truck to pass a bump steer test. The builder had cut and shut the top a-arm mounting brackets, pulling them backwards and inboard in an attempt to regain the lost castor and camber that jacking the truck up had completely fucked. We initially thought the cut and shut brackets were the cause of the horrendous bump steer, but after a couple days of resetting the brackets back to their factory location, it turned out that was only part of the problem, with most of the bump steer actually being caused by the ride height - too high rather than too low, but caused by obscene suspension arm angles all the same. Keep in mind, Gen 2 Camaro front ends are known to have always had terrible bump steer right from factory. For those not familiar with bump steer checks, you simply remove the wheels and springs, bolt a simple frame to each hub that extends forward and parallel a little over a meter, and measure the tow in/tow out changes in 20-30mm increments from full bump to full droop. What I found with the Gen 2 setup was the middle third of the travel was within bump spec, but at certain points both up and down, the toe veered off aggressively all of a sudden. Put simply, the particular setup I was dealing with would only ever be bump steer happy much closer to factory ride height that the owner wanted. The problem with fixing bump steer is that you not only have to move suspension pickup points, but those points must maintain their positions in relation to each other, on either the chassis end of the arms, or the outer ends attached to your hubs. On cars with a "MacPherson strut" front end, such as Silvias and 90's BMW's, this is waaay simpler because they only have a rack and lower arms to move, as opposed to double-a-arm setups from the 70's also having an extra arm to fuck with. By far the simplest way to do any of this is using drop spindles to effectively move all of the hub pickup points down - but, obviously, only a handful of the most popular cars out there have affordable off-the-shelf drop spindles available. The other way to achieve the same thing is smaller diameter wheels and tires - of course, in most cases, an undesirable option. The next option, then, is to raise all of the inner pickup points; problem there is, in 99% of cases, moving the inner a-arm pickups is a waaay over-complicated, overly involved job, only really suiting dedicated track car builds or super-involved high end builds with no budget. Many cars simply don't have the room to raise their rack at all anyway. So... spacing your outer tie rod ends down, without leveling the other two arms to suit, will *likely* fuck your geometry more than ever. Lowering your rack the same amount will obviously cancel out any effect the rod end spacers achieved, and you're back to square one. Lucky for you, you're only dealing with a factory setup with its arms at extreme angles, not a chopped up or custom setup. Now, the easiest way forward for you that I can see, is to remove the springs, and bump test it, whilst making adjustments to either your rack height, rod end spacing, or both. The pain with this will come if you're trying to move your rack up. After every change in its height, you would have to somehow re-secure the rack in the perfect spot, with no chance of it moving, as you articulate the suspension and measure the bump steer... I guess that makes trying the rod end spacers first a way easier choice?
  5. Ricky Neinei King

    My cars and whatever's in the shop now etc.

    I guess the best I can do is find a balance between stronger than factory, yet still weak enough for the jaws of life to pry apart?! Hmm I wonder if there's enough room within the a-pillars for some roll cage tube... they're being unstitched and pulled apart as it is...
  6. Ricky Neinei King

    My cars and whatever's in the shop now etc.

    Mmm can't say I was there to witness it, but there was plenty of crumpled steel in amongst the rust for me to believe it It's scary seeing just how insubstantial the front end of these old vans are. Or all vans, I guess. I'll definitely be trying my best to avoid head on collisions when driving it I'm trying to think up a creative way to reinforce the front end whilst I have it apart... may bend up some 50x50x3mm angle iron and tie it into the chassis behind the bumper... hmm
  7. Ricky Neinei King

    My cars and whatever's in the shop now etc.

    Fucking rusty vans! I bought myself an '88 Nissan Vannette to use as a daily around two months ago... I got it cheap as chips as the previous owner had a crash and pushed in the front right corner just enough to stop the drivers door from closing. As I went to straighten her out, I found virtually every seam from the windscreen forward was rotten! Before I dismantled it, my work mate wrapped a chain around the pushed-in a-pillar, anchored at the other end around a power pole, and drove backwards full tit several times until the door closed again. Who needs a chassis straightener, anyway?! Almost finished with replacing all her cancer. She's a quite-rare quad-square-headlight model, I forgot to take a pic of her before I pulled her apart, but believe me, shes a wee cutie of a thing It's basically a 900kg Datsun van, powered by an A15, backed by a four speed column shift manual.
  8. Ricky Neinei King

    '73 XA Falcon w/ Boss 260 conversion

    For fuck sakes... Looks like I'll be painstakingly transferring all of my photos and links from Photobucket to something that doesn't plaster their watermark all over my shit, NNNGGG Dad has spent the last couple of weeks over your guys side of the ditch, visiting family. I believe he's back tomorrow, updates should start up again shortly
  9. Ricky Neinei King

    My cars and whatever's in the shop now etc.

    Lol, I'm all too familiar with the "can't brain well enough" vibe. If I'm at home, I just mindlessly clean, but if I'm at work and obliged to achieve things, I often resort to chugging a coffee or two I'll have to remind myself to go back a few pages and find the post/s where you were talking about weld through primers. I need to get familiar with the best choices for weld-through, rust converter etc... Been using cheap and probably shit rust kill off the shelf from Repco or Supercheap, and have only ever used copper spray for between seams so far, I recall skimming past a pic where you showed a primer you found that only burns a bare couple of mm around your plug welds, may well be better than copper spray hmm
  10. The old fella has owned his Beddy for a very long time, some of my earliest childhood memories are of me and my siblings cruising around it in. He loves telling how my little sister was conceived in the back of it, lol! XC grilles have always been quite a common swap for these things. Old boy has had the same image in his head for it for over two decades now. XA tails lights, square light XC grille, molded on flares and a big front dam, lake pipes, rear doors and all of the rear windows deleted, and a silky smooth black paint job. It sits on 14x8 and 14x10 hotwires, with the tired old 253 backed by a trimatic, and a Ford 9" with a ratio very specifically chosen to keep the van revving low, to suit long, open road trips around the country. Whilst sitting at work it has had all its rust cut out and the rear door and windows welded up. Last thing for it there is to have the flares and dam glued on, and then it'll be coming home for me and old boy to finish the tail lights, grille, and lake pipes, leaving the unfortunately massive job of panel and paint last.
  11. That's my step-dads 253 powered CF Bedford! The XA lights you see are either getting 2/3rds of their depth sunk into the body, or changed entirely, haven't decided yet. In that pic there they are just bolted on rummy style, doesn't look right though. It's getting a square headlight XC grill put in too! Once dad's Boss XA is done, me and the step-dad will be getting into his van big time. This here came in for a rear seat belt install. The customer wanted 3x retracter belts on his parcel tray for his kids. We usually keep it simple when attaching retracters to the parcel tray, using NZ-spec spreader plates sandwiched either side of the tray/floor to create a strong mounting point. Because this guy wanted a 3rd retracter in the middle, we decided to whip up this funny frame instead of relying on the parcel tray alone. The entire front 1/3rd of his boot is a boxed in sub/amp enclosure, so we were able to keep the frame relatively quick and simple as it was going to remain hidden anyway. Seen here is an unmodified spreader plate stripped of its zinc coat and welded straight to a 25x25x4mm box section, with a gusset on the side to finish. These plates are usually just bolted in place, with two stainless steel rivets added in opposing corners along the direction of the belts pull, to both keep them held in place when unbolted, AND to keep the plates from moving about and enabling the edges of the plates to bite into and fatigue/shear the sandwiched 1mm sheet metal, over time or in an accident. As with a lot of these old cars, the parcel tray is actually banana shaped, raised in the middle. I simply bent and raised the middle plate like so, resulting in all 3 mounting points resting firm up against the underside of the parcel tray. I copied NZ's rollcage base plate requirements for where the frame meets the boot floor. Minimum specs are something like 60 square cm's using 3mm plate, with 50/50 on-off stitch welding. Welding around 100% of the perimeter weakens the 1mm sheet metal more than stitch welding, as the heat effected zone leaves the sheet metal brittle, where stitch welding minimizes it. To finish, I whipped up 3x steel spacers, a little shorter than the thickness of the parcel tray cover. As per NZ law, and logic, you can't just sandwich a retracter or belt through a 10mm thick piece of parcel tray trim and call it a day. Often the most daunting part of these jobs is drilling holes through a mint, original tray cover without missing the mark and having a hole showing once you're done!
  12. Right! Time for a much needed update. Left my big boy camera at work, so only have what is on my phone for the time being. This is my new workplace, should have taken more pics, the place is 3x bigger than this interior pic shows. As previously said, we do a bit of everything. A lot of the gems we have come through are only in for half an hour to get WOF's (Warrant of Fitnesses, which is NZ's version of a road-worthiness inspection needed every 6 months for pre-2000 cars and annually for 2000 onwards cars). These two blue Chevs are two of the bosses 10+ cars, he's collected some cool shit in his time. One of my fav's so far, a kinda patina'd Bonneville. We've seen a LOT of Impalas recently. This here black '32 coupe is absolutely FLAWLESS. One of those few cars where the harder you look for flaws, the more perfection you find.
  13. Ricky Neinei King

    My cars and whatever's in the shop now etc.

    My favourite part about matte black paint is how fast it dries. Love being able to take a heat gun to a freshly painted bracket and watch it dry within a minute - doesn't fully cure that fast obviously, but fast enough to be able to bolt a bracket (or whatever) in place without squishing soft gloss paint
  14. Ricky Neinei King

    My cars and whatever's in the shop now etc.

    Hah! So my fabrication woes are shared by others too! I've shared a laughed several times with the guy who taught me all I know, about the blessing/curse he inflicted upon me. Since leaving his shop, and probably for years to come yet, I will be struggling to strike a balance between chasing the perfection he taught me, and the reality of the industry that is, the demand for constant efficiency and speed. Oh to win Lotto and dwindle away my years doing nothing but working on my own dream builds at my own pace! Since starting my new job, details of which I'll be updating my own thread with soon, that reality has struck me more than ever since becoming a fabricator. Luckily for me, on the occasions my new boss has put me on the more technical, high end jobs for customers specifically wanting the best of work, he has given me the nod to dial things back closer to my natural pace, which was nice, but those exceptions are few and far between. Your work already looks damn fine to me mate. I've finally entered the tedious and frustrating world of rust repair at my new job, something I would love to be able to avoid, but where there is rust, there are customers!
  15. Ricky Neinei King

    '73 XA Falcon w/ Boss 260 conversion

    Thanks a lot guys! Patience was definitely the key to making the tower notches pretty. The gussets ended up like so. They are WAY overkill and perhaps entirely unnecessary, but I held no qualms spending a few extra hours shoring up the front towers to oblivion. I've left plenty of room around the spring to account for any growth or flexing, of course. The spring puts upward pressure on the top of the tower, obviously, and the bottom of the spring effectively puts downwards pressure on the two holes where the studs of the top arm feed through the bottom of the tower. With the two points constantly being pulled apart, especially during hard driving, the gussets have tied together my two new plates and the rest of the tower, meaning no amount of abuse over the years will ever fatigue my welds. Now my tools are all home where the motor still sits, onto the headers and sump. Watch this space!
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