XFGHIA747

Well thats a non adjustable float level plate I presume float levels must be to high for fuel to piss out of there id look to see weather there adjustable as I have never had a holley that hasn't been adjustable

Hey Fella's now im after the guru that can tell me how to wire my Clevo dissy and coil of the wiring from my efi 6, I have the coil ones word out I think there the same? But the plug from Clevo dissy where do I wire these ? Any help would be good thanks men!. Jake.

Thanks gerg got it all in there nicely I made up a plate with a slot cut out to go over the yoke then tentioned up to where it was before, slightly more due to bearing wear and im happy, as all I done was swap from flat flange to earlier ford..

Hey guys im just after some tips maybe jigs you have made up for holding the borg warner diff yokes wile doing up the nut to I understand that it needs to have the right amount of bearing drag on a torque gauge but its a pain in the ass to hold the yoke steady? Would it be right you use a big set of monkey grips or make a piece of flat plate to go in the cap holes? Any ideas

Hi guys just chasing the length of a xf wagon tailshaft how much longer are they compaired to sedan ones, not after a perfect measurement just close If someone has a list of lengths feel free to chuck up a list for future reference. also are all borg warner diff yokes interchangeable from the earlier steel cap design to flange design I have a vn diff im doing a job on can I put a xf diff yoke onto the vn or later e series diff? Thanks guys any help would be great..

I think the 465 will work, id did for me even to 6200, but as matt said your camshaft is bigger so you need a bigger carb as it wont punch enough to keep it going, A 500 two barrel is a nice unit, good down low and has good air speed up top I have seen 250k + stock bottom end crossflows with ported head and valve train kit plus smaller cam rev 6100 all day on a 500, and one burnout comps from the torque, But you said your running a 4 barrel mani so that rules out my jibber...

Haha yeah well I was amazed gerg when I put it on the dyno to tune it, was my first ever crossflow build and only going off what I new, was about 98kw when I drove it in to and when I come out I was amazed I had a custom ground camtech cam made up was running yt roller rockers on a D head

I ran a 465 on my old engine on a redline manifold, slight porrted head and good flowing exhaust 10;5;1 comp 108 lobe sep 545lift in/exh cant remember the duration of the top of my head ran a 7.5 powervalve on 58 i think jets, worked awesome pulled 147rwkw was manual running 3.23 gearing..

Just asking guys if I can change the gear sets on my 2.77 lsd diff centre in my xf ghia, I know later ones can be changed but I have a mate that tryed it once and said it doesnt work? Can someone please confirm why it cant be changed and if it was what was used ? Cheers

They are a direct bolt in from memory arnt they using the stock xf control arms? Never done one to be honnest..

Ahh yes that would be why he said it wont fit due to the carrier being different, it would be interesting to see them both side by side.

As the title says lads what are some of the best ways to fix crossflows killing Dissy's a mate had one completely rebuilt in his drag bus a season ago same deal killed it again, can you buy new dissys for crossflows or just rebuild them and hows the best to prevent them. cheers lads

Well he is running a xe dissy, but its a common problem in high reving crossflows to flog out the shaft between the gear and the rotar hub and when they flog out the contacts hit each other in the to of the dissy. When he sent it away last time they built up the shaft with some metal spray or something to make it tighter in the shaft..

So lads as title says, how do we stop crossflow's distroying belts at high rpm, my old engine was a happy 6200 and often rolled belts iv tryed larger alt pullys heaps of different belts and have only slightly improved, my new motor is going to be around 7000rpm and can see only more problems arising.. So any tips on whats best for these torque monsters and pics would be great, Gilmore drive in my aplication isnt really a option as im very limited to room in a ke70 corolla... Help would be great thanks guys

Just after a rough guide in what cc we would expect from a 60 tho shaved e2 head oviously it will vary due to previously skimid heads but on a rock stock basis what is achevable in each head class? how much can be taken off and still have piston to valve clearance I have some 8cc pistons on the shelf in shed and would like to give my e2 heads a good port 1.6 exhaust and 80 tho shave can this be done? So Chuck up some shaved head figues lads ( guide refrence only )

Thanks for the advice ando well I wont shave the e2 then until im ready to use it, I can get a D heads I had one of these before and quiet liked it do you know what the cc is on a standard chamber amd what it would be 40 tho shaved ? Thats would be awesome if you could just slapping together a motor with what I have around atm, for the ke70, then I get to the ef crank crossy soon, thinking ill only have 9 to 1 comp or somewhere around there with the pistons in my efi bottom end,

Thanks lads one way or another i can see ill get over this with ease, Ando - once again your always a wealth of knowledge, i couldn't think how much i have learnt from all us crossy nuts on here that are willing to spill beans, tf-250 - thanks for that they really look alot better being full steel and having the pully running of the centre, a small amount of time re alinging water pump and alt to run off outer and it would be great. ill see if i can get a link up to have a good look might be on the shopping list. what manual flywheels do you guys use there is a few sorts i have noticed, a mate of mine has about 5 different one all thicker and thinner then one another one he has the amount of steel on the engine side of the flywheels is as much as the clutch side, how would this good and whats the best crank for the best balanced engine, ??

Well there ya go thats a few things to take into consideration, going buy what yous have all said are all reasons thats can cause the problem I think my issue was maybe a bit of flex in the alt bracket as I only had the normal not he a/c type, Thats interesting about the runner cfm being even ando I think that in theory makes a fair bit of sence and the more even the runner lengths to give a closer exact afr to the cylinder at same speed would make heaps of difference,

Na no misalignment issue alway made sure that was good had a few motors do it now, speedway enginrs etc, So a good balance?? That could the problem wouldn't the engine not run smoothly at 6 grand if it was flapping about on the rubber? Or I have know idea haha, Any suggestions on a reasonably priced balancer, Pro

Hey mate, yeah probs already said make sure the out side head bolt with the earth clamp is only tightened to second tention spec not final, and it doesnt hurt to put a bit of permatex on that bolt due to that bolt going into the water pump jacket.. cheers jake

Well as title says whats the dash diffence between my 6 ghia dash with the v8 in, at say 3000rpm on my six dash what are the revs really say 2700 or vice versa, just so I have a gide untill I get tacho and shit in, Cheers lads

Lol cheers gerg dunno why I didnt think of that aha

Mate I have just finished my twin 2.5 to 3in single system with just the one hooker aerochamber and to be honest im in bloody love with it awesome quality in fabrication sounds awesome and is pretty cheap id recommend, I was running a lukey race on my old exhaust and it was ok but I would buy another hooker, Hope it helps Cheers Jake...

Simple question can a ef xr6 diff go onto my xf ghia? Brake lines and such aint an issue just phisical bolt in part what arms need to be used bushes etc mounts need to be moved ? Or cant be done ? Cheers lads

Thanks mate thats all I wanted to know