unfamilia

Well I wired it all up works as it should then spoke to a mate that's a sparky, he said just hook up switch from near ignition switch from acc power when In on position and into the trigger wire to solenoid. That's all the ignition switch does at that position and it's fused already.

Wired it up will try in morning

I've used this on old car before

if I hook up pin 30 to battery

pin 87 to solenoid

pin 86 from ignition Switch power when key at on position then that would do It yeah

The top one looks constant, bottom one more what I'm after. would the fused 12 volt in on the bottom one be from the battery terminal on starter or ok to take off the back of ignition switch?

Where it says dual fans just hook up to starter solenoid? looks simple

Or

would the output be just to the starter solenoid?

Got a diagram for the wiring?

I'd like it to be only active when key is in to on position on the standard ignition switch so can't be bumped when no key in the Barrel.

So my thoughts are splice into wire on ignition switch for power at on position and the wire that bumps the solenoid. not sure how to wire it in with relay if urs needed. If i wired it to just tgese two wires woukd it draw too many amps to bump start? I need a pic as I'm a visual person

Won't bump starter if I hook up through ignition switch, key Still needs to be In on position for power

Jap car

Cheers. A mate said just the off the 2 pins off the back of the ignition switch to the momentary switch. that way no wires through the fire wall and post fuses.

Oh the ignition key would still need to be In the on position for this to work.

It's like a start engine button.

My ignition is playing up on the start end of the Barrel. I bridged the pos terminal and ignition tab on the starter to test it and started first go.

I need to order a new ignition barrel from overseas (not for a Ford) so how can I wire up this set up til it arrives (6-8 weeks).

I know I could use just a momentary switch and 20 amp wires onto cabin but I would have thought a relay or fuse should be used as one wire will get permanent + from the starter terminal?

Basic diagram anyone?

Any one heard of these??? 

http://www.wide-band.com/content/apsx-d1-wbo-controller-and-g1-led-display-full-kit

Looks like the old jaycar set ups. No lights which I think I like more than stuff flashing around me

Upping from one to 2 psi should be ok ;-)

Im thinking I can almost run no check valve, its only for 1psi pressure. Just means can up pressure slightly for more flow now too

Got a stock mechanical pump. It reads 4 psi at idle. Too much. Regulator set at 1psi currently.

Figure set at 2psi with return line same size as feed line, any fuel carb not using goes down return line. One way valve stops flowing back to t peice feeding off regulator into carbs.

I watched fuel bleed into carbs via gauge bleeding from 1psi to 0. Carb floats went from 55ml to 85ml. So needle and seat not holding back pressure of 1psi.

Gravity feed with a tank would need a petcock valve to prevent similar issues once stopped from my understsnding

Ok found my datsun has the option of return line in efi and twin carb models.

Ive got another line for a return now.

I also found in the spares from previous owner I have a return metal fuel pump to carb line. Wont work with bike carbs as line now runs against fire wall not front of car like stock.

so reading up about bypass setups, using a t peice fuel will run to carbs and return line (like the check valve set up on here but constant) its adviseable to put a one way check valve so fuel doesnt flow back into carbs.

does this sound like a viable option. Seems popular In jap cars to stop vapor lock

So floats set to 1mm travel let idle 20mins no leaks at 1psi fuel pressure. Took for drive. Leans out at just over 5k...got detonation :-( . but getting to 5k much better even with retarded timing.

15min drive idles at 1700rpm still and no leaks. Yay. But now worried floats too low lol.

Cheers. Just asking after my friend said was on his rx7 stock

Thinking about my bike carb set up I picked up a regulator from a mate. He was telling me his old rotor had a fuel return from the carby fuel bowl to the tank.

have been reading up a bit and some old school racers used to just flood carbs with fuel and hook up the overflows back to the tanks with a return line.

wondering if this is a solution for bike carbs dribbling out the overflows at random???

I found that you can get 90deg metal bend sleaves from bike shops to get cables to go round bends properly

Yep. Its not that your part of australia or anything..... that would be new Zealand

Cheers guys, I'll do that tonight after work - weather permitting.

 

I'm 95% certain its carby based, because when I open my pants manually at the zip, I can feel a stiff/stuck part.

 

The shaft itself physically looks good too, no binding/kinks/cracking like most have.

fixed for tasmainia

Is it the cable sticking in the sleave. Happens on other cars why not a ford.

Cheers. Will have to find some unallocated funds ;-)

Melbourne

Thats not empty. Still 1 bar left or did you steall crips wagoon tank of 1,000,000 lt