unfamilia

Trying start car after new tank. No blockages in lines etc, I cant get the fuel to draw through into the fuel filter. Drained the battery cranking it. I started it with fuel down the throat of carb easy as but mrs wouldnt crank over for me again to stand there feeding petrol into carb trying to get it running to draw fuel trough. Any way to prime it otherwise.

Oh its an xe tank now too so fuel feed in in the bottom of tank not top like xd wagon usually is. Better imho.

Keyserts dude or recoil solid threaded inserts. I swear by these over a helicoil or similar any day now

Maybe the density and additives in the higher octane fuels

I wouldnt be too concerned yet. Give it a reverse flush of the radiator only to clear it out. Also might pay to take it to rad shop for a rodding

Um no. I drove it from anakie to home 80km and have only done about 10km since then. Ran out of fuel(or so I thought) but only took $50 to fill. Got home and got club reg after fixing a few things. Drove kids to school and it ran out again ( or so I thought) 10lt in drove it home. Changed motor and then I tried draining tank (syphon) got 5lt out. Removed tank dropped it spilt 5-10lt cleaned that up. Drained 15more lt of brown fuel. Rest was like mud and goo in tank. In tank filter fell apart trying to clean it. State fuel and rust. That was the filter after I scrubbed out tank. New clean tank now 35lt and clean fuel lines and carb. Clean tank sender. Just need payday to fill jerry can again lol. I cleand can with metho already lol.

So cut the 1/4 inch washer off hey. Need to cut the pump housing at all? Such a pita as it is now. Hope I never have to do again. Done hundreds that way lol. Makes me feel like I could be doing it again

My top drivers side water pump bolt keeps stripping the thread. I have drilled and tapped it twice already and its up to a m10 size now. Is there anything available like a dyna bolt to use on the hole to hold water pump and alt bracket in? I think the metal will keep stripping

Well this was my fuel filter. Imagine that 20mm thick in bottom of tank and sludgy.

Yours started off clean compared to mine.

Yeah I know what you mean there. I apologise to all professionals that I gave it a go instead of paying lol. No the thread fix was a 15minute job. The rest of the time is removing radiator fan fanbelts alternator detaching aircon pulley and all associated bracketry. All cause the factory bracket doesnt allow waterpump removal without doing all that by 15mm clearance. Stupid bracket. Well I got the procedure down from 6hours almost to 2.5hours. To me thats a saving in time. Dont count it took me 7 times so all those hours I wasted of my life I didn't save anything but I learnta butt load of stuff. On my falcon Also like my neighbors hate xd falcons that dont go anywhere.

Yes its flush charcoal. Not sticking out at all.

As long as 6 cyl cross flow with stuffed bolt threads and built up 30year old oil over the whole frame of car.... then yes.

On the plus side I got it down to a 2.5hour procedure now too lol

Never too late. I drilled it to 10mm as the resert steve sent me wouldnt tap right into that hole and I didnt have a 13mm drill bit for next size up. The keyert needed a 10.8mm drill bit so I figured with the cordless same as what you said it would be slightly larger than 10mm. The 12x1.25 tap made a beautiful thread (mental note buy a set of these shit hot taps and use motor oil more often to tap holes then the tapping lube). Screwed in keysert and tapped the prongs in with a mallet (put mallet face on the prongs and then tapped with a hammer). Wait 24hours for silicon to cure and we will see if this mofo leaks again.

Well the longer bolt almost worked. Yes almost. Pin hole weep from seal. Tried to just lightly tighten 1/4 of a turn and yep striped. Wasnt even tight. So out it comes again and keysert goes in. Crap!!! Should have just done it the other day but thought the longer bolt was ok.

I just recleaned my sender tonight. Came up great. Will install tomorrow. Use acetone and the green 3m scrouer gently. Comes up like new.

Well I tried a longer bolt and it seems to be holding in with 3 or 4 threads so far. If this fails will install keysert. Another dodge fix a back yarder told me was as I have drilled and tapped to a larger hole is to get a long bolt and put a nut inside the water chamber and use it like a stud. Then another nut in the larger tapped hole. This will allow pump to be held in and the alt bracket to slip over it. He reckons he did it years ago and worked fine. Might be an option if keysert tap doesnt take well.

Found loc serts in stainless. Tap hole for m12 and screw it in. Cheap as at $10 for it. Pick up weds ason order

Im looking to stiffen my xd rear suspension or leaves. Its got 30years of sag going on. I dont want to lower the car if anything higher would be better for camping and carting around stuff. Is it just a matter of adding an extra leaf or using ute leaves? Cheers

Will be a blockage in the overflow hose or vent line to the charcoal canister possibly. Ive had similar issues before in my old car. Pushed fuel past the needle and seat of my su carbs filling cyl3 and the sump with fuel.

Cheers. Pm sent. Too late for sms

Cool. Will have to work some thing out. Dyna bolt is looking soooo tempting right now

Any one used ez lok threaded inserts. Just need find somewhere in melbourne to get them. Like a intetnally threaded sleave that you screw in and acts as a new threaded hole. Heavy duty version of a nutsert

Mmmmmm I think im stuffed then. I used a 9mm bit and the m10 tap. So that explains why stripped again. Mmm wonder how a dyna bolt would fix it now :-(