unfamilia

This motor may not be what I need. I need a stockish motor for reliability. If it does ok on 98 (won't know til payday in 2 weeks) then might have to get another or look at 302 for sure. A head swap could solve it to drop compression too I guess.

Is that under the rocker cover or on out side? If on outside the there is nothing. Probably machined off

Not sure was a 2nd hand engine and he gave me a bunch of receipts that dat to 1997 for head work and pistons were approx 2005 hypertechs I used inspection down spark plug hole to confirm piston tops. Sump off confirmed brand. how to lock timing

Crossflow

Yeah marks are right. Will try 98 and see. What booster is good value

I like the cut and shut one. Why cut the center out between the 2 bolt holes for the flat plate?

Im in vic and ive helped my mate who did a conversion into my old 1200. He welded x member and tunnel and car was engineered. Id love a 302 clevo but people seem to charge premiums for old v8's. so a bolt in conversion is doable my self mig or arc welding as long not structual im ok with (not pretty always but strong). Im dreaming but realistically a 2nd hand stock or mild cam 302 with a colomn shift auto for under 1k which I just need to bolt into my wagon would be sweet. Rad alt carb etc included would be a bonus.a whole xd or e with running engine but rusted out would be mine and every other persons wish. I can weld an exhaust if have too as well. Its not a daily just a club permit car so fuel economy isnt a great concern. Just a bit reliable to occasion tow with or take camping. Never having had a v8 is my only reason for it. Ive had almost every Other engine in cars except v8 or rotor. Never wanted a rotor.

No power steer. Ac would be nice to keep but not essential. Carb v8 easy as no need for elecs. So you used the v8 mounts ti fit

Also if possible what tranny to back it up? Keeping the colomn shift auto I have, would be sweet to keep that too

So what manifold to run on carb so no efi needed? If you used the 6 plates would that mount it that 40mm forward?

Thats the issue finding a stuffed car at cheap price. I junked the idea but figured if I stumble across a later model 5lt that can be run on carb in the xd on my country travels id snap it up. Seems more eb etc 5lt cars out there now than xd zh etc.

what the tree trunk penis??? You can be the pioneer on that one.

I do that too but it usually says click here if your over 18 to enter.

On which line the return line??

So facet pump no return needed really.

Just realised if I change my adm webber to an xf one with fuel return from carb then possibly wont need pressure valve as any excess will flow back to tank...

Update progress

Can you mould that shape with fibreglass over the top. Would be hollow under neath. Or even that expanding foam crap.

Cool ando. $50 buys good mid strength but when I buy it it has to last 8-10 weeks fir a slab currently

Wonder if it needs a relief valve? I know others dont use relief valves with faccet pumps. Would a restricter work in the return line so fuel just constantly trickles back instead of constant fuol flow back to tank and to carb? Yes the $50 seems daunting to my cheap nature

I got a rebuilt and run mildly worked one for that price. $200 max. So few kms can sometimes be worse than too many.

Would check valve really be needed or will t peice running costant back to tank be enough

Any one using those $35 faccet pumps iff ebay? So if I plumbed it in under rear passenger guard near tank just add a t peice straight after it back into tank returnline? Maybe 10cm away from tank so wouldbt build up heat. Would that be the go in this situation

What flush to use in cleaning out an iron head crossy. I know some not recommended for alloy heads

Cup trick worked a treat! Thanks (oh I used a toilet brush cup cause it was just there in the gutter- at least was clean)