2redrovers

Sorry I didn't pop in earlier, I am not getting any Tapatalk notifications at all again. Stitch welding is better practice than fully seam welded parts because it allows for minor movement/flex with reduced instance of fatigue cracking around the welded components. Generally yes 1"weld, 1"gap, is an acceptable way to go. Depending on the parts, longer seams I've been working 2"weld, 2"gap. But works out the same. Do yourself a favour and cut a piece of metal at the size you want to space your welds and use that as a ruler to mark out your stitching before you start. You'll be able to adjust for aesthetic appeal then instead of migging away and finding your half an inch out when you get to the end and it looks odd or leaves a gap you don't want. Cracks need to be cleaned of all paint and contamination before welding. No need to vee the join unless the crack is in 3mm+ thick steel. If you have a tig it's a good idea to use it on cracks because is a softer weld than mig and will be less likely to crack again in the same spot. Suggest welding both sides of the panel if possible for full penetration with tig. I always go a bit further along the line past the end of the crack even if it looks solid, this fuses the steel in the weak area that may have microscopic fractures past the visible crack. If you only have mig it's OK, just do the same thing by starting before the crack on solid steel and work your way along the line in a weave from edge to edge. I use a hot weld with just enough wire feed to stop it from burning through but enough puddle to make sure that the fracture is completely fused back into one piece. Tack weld at intervals along the line beforehand and gently grind them almost flush before fully welding. Personally I start from one end and weld through to the other as fast as the steel will let me travel, then let the whole lot cool naturally (no water or air used to cool by force). Once done grind back if needed although if you can live with it I'd maybe just run the wire brush over to clean the surface and leave the weld in tact.. not always an option though. For a racecar, stitch welding every possible seam as described above, and double up the number of spot welds around the shell will give you a HUGE advantage in strength and durability of the body shell. It will last longer than seam welding too. With the body stiffened like this you will have an easier time dialing in suspension settings later as you won't have to take flex into account as much.

Just watch that the glue doesn't get into the vac tube itself. If you're splicing two lines, maybe double up on the heat shrink to keep the ends in line.

A bit of contact cement and heat shrink tube should be able to seal most problems with cracks or pinched lines. I don't think heat shrink tubing like super glue that's why I suggest contact adhesive.

Gotta love a dodgy... Or an inter... And in my case a Fargo (psst....they're the same trucks)

There ain't no better reason than ".... just 'cause" *sits on your shoulder with a pitchfork * ".... Psst... Do it, you know you want to....."

The 5" with quad gauge is similar to the ones in my truck but that's a big chunk of coin. Not quite the right look on the faces I think but if I had to use something, they'd still be ok.

No input to add but that looks pretty good. I might look at this for an option in my truck, especially if you can get one in a retro look.

Is it the same as BA? If so, squeeze the sides of the wiring plug to release it from the terminals as you pull it back, take the rubber seal off the back of the housing, globe is held in by a spring clamp just look/feel for the light grey wire thing and gently push it in a little then sort of upwards to unhook it from the housing, globe should practically fall out. Reverse to install. I just changed my au one with one I harvested from the ba donor. Don't know if bf is different.

One of those what if moments.. Generic car ramp.. It looks like it will sit under the sump lip but can't be 100% sure because my engine has a trans attached. It looks good though and makes a cradle easy, just chock up the back end for transport and weld legs on it later.

That's what you meant to say isn't it?

Got a couple star pickets laying around and a welder?

If it had trans you could have borrowed my trolley gizmo, currently has the xf motor on it. Have you got something to work with or want help to knock one up?

Is it just the engine/block or trans as well?

The other way is a frame made from a few bits of angle iron or probably timber could do it too. I had the XB engine on a frame like that.

If you don't have a tyre I've got one at the shop you can use, nice wide one I got from envyxf with his old motor.

Got an old tyre to sit it on? Off the rim, tie it down to each corner of the trailer and check it after going around the first block for movement. I brought an xf motor back from Wonthaggi like that with no problems.

Unless it's changed recently, Victoria was the only state using straight propane no matter where you bought from.

Where the regulations state "refer to vsb 14" this is where to look.. https://www.infrastructure.gov.au/vehicles/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb_ncop.aspx The VASS links.. https://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/registration/vehicle-modifications-and-defects/vehicle-modifications/vass-approval-certificate You can download the VSI8 pdf from that page which covers Vic regulations that may differ from national. Basically, follow that to build a car with additional information from vsb14/ncop. There's only slight differences allowed for club plates as pointed to above, I think it was vsi33, which vary depending on year of the vehicle being built.

The only things I can find which talk about modifying the fuel system are as follows.. From the club permit guidelines for vehicles The relevant section from vsi8 The section on fuel system in vsb14 was written in 2011 and hasn't been revised yet that I can find. It makes no mention of efi at all. There is a mention of "optional oem" equipment not needing certification.... Which tacitly says that anything not made in the era of a vehicle, installed by that manufacturer at any point in the correct period, or creates a power increase deemed "significant" must be signed off to pass and has always been the case.

This.... Although I'm light years away from needing any sort of drive line.

I've always been green but depends on the colour, I'm very picky and even though green is probably my favourite colour I don't like a lot of them. I do like that steely look, it's modded but not in your face. Surprisingly the white rim works with the dark green.

No updates other than its surprisingly not even full of random crap yet, you may have seen it in the background of the workshop thread guarding the door lol.. But I just came across this photo of a mk1 sedan that I liked the look of. That's the kind of green I like and it looks good with the wide steels and caps.

Rust at the top of a pillar often means water has been able to get in and fall to the bottom. This often means the bottom is gone or going, and can be the cause of the the sill in the first pic. The c pillar photo is a bit close up to see context but as Dean said these are a little easier than other cars. You mentioned a previous bog job so expect that to be bigger than it looks. Definitely not the worst car I've ever repaired, not by a long shot if that's all you can find.

I asked "Dr Tim" a question on fb related to engine size but got no answer. I've seen a lot of unanswered questions there too. He also happens to be the engineer that street machine mag uses now.

Dunno.. Nothing wrong with that per se but if I did it, that would be a temporary look.. Not sure if I could live with it and I probably wouldn't do red rims