2redrovers

If you do it properly as per instructions, I know the fusor adhesive is as strong as welded joints and sometimes stronger than typically spot welded panels. There will be no negative impact for using panel bonding techniques. I'd probably glue the panel to the outside skin with about a 15-20 mm overlap. Once fully glued you could carefully shave the stepped edge down to enable it to feather into the rest of the panel with some filler and minimal ridge.

Sika flex isn't a permanent fix for anything. It will eventually dry right through and shrink in the process. It's designed to bond lightweight items that need to move slightly, eg mouldings. My personal choice would be Lord / Fusor adhesive. I've used fusor 112b panel bond to glue roof skins on cars with hail damage. Pretty sure I've also used the fusor 2098 crash durable adhesive. Similar stuff but cartridges use a normal style gun for application like silicone. Both apply to bare metal best, so clean paint off the direct contact area then apply a bead of glue and clamp or screw panels together. Screws could be ground off and filled over. Rivets would also work. Prep and paint as normal.

Does anyone need this section? It's the front corner of a left hand door. I assume it will work for xa,b,c sedan or coupe but I don't know if they're different. Templated from xb coupe door.

That'll work

Have you got a photo of that panel?

Yeah I'll be trying to make repeatable templates for the parts I make for the xb, first will probably be the rear corner bit I made the other day. Does it make a difference in your mind that mine are hand made and not stamped out like rare spares crap? I know you can get an inner door corner like that for some fords from them for around 65. If I made one it would be more than that.

Anything for a datto!! I know you can buy some parts or used to be able to. Let me know what you need when you find out.

Ditto, I like a Hz tonner but sedans etc do nothin for me. Yeah it's a modified chevelle with custom bumper treatment.

*chuckles * got no idea what you're on about bear Here's a thought in progress on what could be done with a hj sedan...

In theory any signwriting mob would be able to cut a stencil for you.

*gasp*

Got this one finished up. Extended the rear quarters to give it a better balance. Thought it could have one of those continental spare wheel mounts on the rear bumper.

Satin would look good but I'd go paint instead of wrap. I was pretty happy with the colour combo as it came out. Was simply the colours of the photos I used as a base and I think the two tone works well. If I went satin black body I'd maybe do an old school lace job on the roof. You have to have a high quality paint job under wraps to be free of defects, so why cover it up. Just paint it right and it'll last longer anyway.

I'd take one of those, probably in burgundy or green with auto instead of the cog box. Mentally drooling over the sound it makes already.

Did you mean my p6 coupe? Here, I let the air out of the bags If you meant the p5, I'll have a play with it later and see where I end up.

I've been tinkering again... Rover p6 (Tc variation in the pic I used) Turned into a 2 door sled using a roof swap from a rover p5 coupe P5 coupe

Simple fact is that noone will be able to restore a plastic car even if they wanted to. Fast-forward 30 yrs and there will be no stockpile of plastic parts like guys hoard steel panels. No one will invest money to remake plastic bars etc for current cars by then due to the expense and reliance on petroleum components for manufacturing. You'll have the odd enthusiast making hand made panels from a composite material but the cost would be huge. I'm sure you fellas with early plastic barred cars will already be noticing a difficulty in finding replacements and it will just become harder as time goes on. Forgive the rantings of an old fashioned metal man.

One trick I hadn't tried yet was shrinking the red image down by about half to match the blue ute. Might mean you retain detail in the wheels as they don't get stretched out.

Blue ute was close to the right angle if there's a higher quality image around somewhere. I'm starting to get the hang of making a pic fit another pics angles, within reason. The recolouring is what I have the most trouble with. Can't work out how some of these guys do paint jobs and colour changes so well.

Burgundy is a colour that can usually carry gold but does depend on the value of each ie how light or dark. I think the combo manages to be classy and mean/tough at same time. The darker ones will look good too but wouldn't grab your eye as much. Could be a good or bad thing depending how you view it. More or less attention.

I had another shot at the wheels using the ones off that ute. The grey wheels are my not so flash attempt at changing the gold ones to something like the right colour. Personally, I kinda like the gold ones but agree they would look different in real life. Depends what impact you are aiming for, your car after all.

Ok here we go, I think it's a little iffy as far as my chop goes but hopefully it gives you an idea. I made the gold wheels deep dish and the dark ones as per the sample. Tried getting better quality pic of the wheels from their website but it's down.

I'll give it a shot. See if I can do something tonight maybe.