2redrovers

Ahhh.. The old "better than normal concrete not looking different in photos" trick....gets me every time 99 [emoji57]

Hey its a British car after all...I'm well acquainted with the quirks of Brit electrical[emoji6]

Like the stereo.. Something isn't wired right. But your idea with the switch is certainly a serviceable solution. Doubt it's a real problem as most of the time you want a boot light, you already have the lights on as you change that flat tyre in the darkened alleyway. [emoji6]

There's always thread lock, just don't use the permanent one.

If it's a castle nut, shouldn't there be provision for a split pin to lock it in place? Nyloc nut's probably the way to go though.

Well when you hate it, you can give it to me[emoji16]

Sorry, didn't see this earlier. Recently had the underneath of the floorpan for the torana done by enviroblast. Was a decent bloke, came out and did the job on-site. Results were fine as far as surface and workmanship. Perhaps could have cleaned up better but he may have been nervous about water getting where it shouldn't. Cost was somewhere round 700-800 and took several hours to complete. He said rough numbers for a whole car would be starting around 2500. Price depends on if there's body deadener etc, takes longer to blast off. His process uses high pressure water and glass beads as media. Btw, calling it dustless is a stretch.. Ok, less dust but not dustless.

Gerg, you'd probably get the same answer if you asked us to do it, quality may be better here though

Check the sills for signs of rust, inner and outer, around the base of the a pillar (may only show as cracked paint around the seams and joints). Check where a pillar meets base of front screen. Any ripples in the roof around the B pillar? If you haven't taken the doors off, do they open/close nice with even gaps all around or is it uneven?

You rang?

That there is just some damn fine sexy

^^^what he said lol For what your doin you'd be fine with normal protection gear. If you don't have a mask, the good charcoal filtered 3m face masks will cope with the short-term use on this job. Whether they contain isocyanate would depend on the brand. It's usually only in the clear and is a build up type of problem (long-term exposure)

If you have an auto paint store nearby, you could get some touch up paint mixed to formula and use that to colour. Then use that 2k in a can to clear over it and polish till your happy

Cheers Dean, saved me the trouble

All good mate, glad it worked.

And because panelshops aren't licenced vehicle testers, technically you can't drive to /from them either

Misuse of permit (decided by cop who pulls you over) 960 I think it was.

From the photo, you were fixing it anyway, just a matter of when. It shouldn't have been a roadworthy item, no rust and the damage isn't severe enough to cause a failure by driving down the road or to even significantly alter the transmission of force in a crash. They send a rep from each garage to do a half day lunch meeting to "explain" the new rules on what they are looking for. They don't understand because it's over their heads and when they go back to work on people's cars, they overreact and hit everything with the ban stick.

I'd honestly look for another roadworthy guy, this one is a fkwitt

Can you show us a couple of pics of the sill damage? I might be able to help. Ticks me off with rwc that mechanics are asked to make judgements on things outside their qualifications. Its like asking me to tell if your big end bearings are shot by listening to the rattle in the aerial. Most don't have a clue what the regs actually are let alone what's a safety issue.

Read that^^^ and thought... But the ranger isn't Australian either

Sweet! One day I'll score a freebie

Inspiration