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Valvebouncer

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Posts posted by Valvebouncer

  2. Posted

    I’d do AU bottom end. It’s got a better combustion shape in the piston crown, longer rods which give you better angle in the bore and more torque down low and cross bolting of the alloy sump to the mains caps. What’s not to like??
    Dave is spot on with the head.
    See if you can find a non vct Xr6 au motor. Better cam, valve springs and exhaust valves are 2mm bigger.

    CHESTNUTXE and Thom reacted to this

  3. Posted

    The inlet manifold gaskets will differ for the water ports , some early 289 are small and some 302 and 351 are different. There will be 2 sets of seals for the block to middle of the inlet manifold. Most importantly, make sure the head gaskets are around the right way!

    bear351c reacted to this

  5. Posted

    I saw on you tube about blocking some smog port or something do i need to do this ?

    I doubt it. It was on a he earlier ones. Had a pipe bolted to the back of each head running from one side to the other. Plus ports hanging down inside the exhaust ports.

  7. Posted

    i looked up you tube and its pretty common on these you need a big c clamp and a 14mm socket and clamp down on the socket until it pops then the keepers come straight out i did just 1 and it worked so over the weekend i will pull apart everything and start my rebuild process,ol m8 hasnt even put the block in the tank yet so probly another week b4 i get it back to assemble the bottom end.

    Did you try tapping it down with a brass drift and hammer?? Just support under the valve with some soft timber ( pallets are good for this )
    CHESTNUTXE reacted to this

  8. Posted

    The heads are interchangeable left and right, what are your plans for this engi?

    They are but some have the front drilled and tapped for accessories to be bolted on or the emissions exhaust port at the back ( older heads ).
    CHESTNUTXE reacted to this

  10. Posted

    I can’t remember which is which but the exhaust and inlet have different retainers. From memory that one piece does stuck quite badly. Spray it with wd40 while whacking the top of the valve with a plastic face hammer. I have a huckson hammer, I’ve had it for many years and done many many rebuilds with it.

    CHESTNUTXE reacted to this

  11. Posted

    The rockers are interesting they have a small slot or girdle for the heads and just to confirm maybe vb can vary this the wide slot goes to the oil dripper on the rocker yes ?e58e49cf6fe8ffc912ee842f9a7725f3.jpgc001c1b9508d1331aa3271b787bde5a7.jpg

    Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk


    The grooves form a v shape and should line up over the top of one another. In the engine I did 2 of the pedestals were backwards which made an x shape which didn’t allow enough oil in and chewed them out.
    SPArKy_Dave and CHESTNUTXE reacted to this

  14. Posted

    im no expert but i would say these have had fair ware on them but maybe still usable ? the dog bones look all good.6RDE9NYK_o.jpgb51wgjQB_o.jpg

    That lifter looks like it has some nasty scoring at the top. It’s hard so see but that lower part above the roller could be overheated??
    What do the lifter bores look like?
    CHESTNUTXE reacted to this

  16. Posted

    Dunno mate, never dealt with the spider thingy. That shim is the rocker cover gasket. If they are ok you can clean them up and reuse them. They stick like shit to a blanket on the head though!

    CHESTNUTXE and NZXD reacted to this

  17. Posted

    It’s not way hot but I get why you worry. Have you checked with a tissue that the fans are wired up and blowing the right way? Just feeling isn’t good enough. Other than that is sounds like you have checked all the basics so it’s onto the engine rebuild. How much was it over bored? Did they put head stud sealant on the outer head bolts? If not it may have a blow head gasket. If they put the head gaskets on backwards the overheating will be instant and uncontrollable. I’d check the water pump too as Thom said. You may have to remove it to check this.

  19. Posted

    hey here is a good question if im gunna change this engine back to carby can i use the timing current efi timing chain cover or do i need to buy the earlyer one ,also do i need to change the balancer and flywheel back to 28once or just keep the 50 ounce ones ? 

    @NZXD

  21. Posted

    What year, did the Geelong Foundry start casting Clevo blocks?

    Very good question i think its around late xb or xc era the first bunch of NASCAR style blocks were cast as well but didnt have the pillows and are very rare.2nd NASCAR blocks were done around 81 or 82 


    Wouldn’t it be 1971? Remember we were the only country to have a 302 clevo and they came out in the XA in 1972.
    CHESTNUTXE reacted to this

  23. Posted

    They can have very thin bore walls, I have seen some bored 30 thou over and hitting a water jacket unless it is one of the bulge blocks with 4 bolts mains. They can also run hot easily if the cooling system isn’t bang on. None of this explains why they didn’t use them for long though. I think that is more to do with physical size. The heads are massive compared to Windsor heads which externally cut back in on the exhaust side which means the engine isn’t as wide and fits between shock towers easily .

    bear351c, gerg and CHESTNUTXE reacted to this

  25. Posted

    Ha! be lucky if i'm not sleeping on the bus when we go past.. already owe the sleep gods at least an hour a day for the last 2 weeks

     

    You lack sleep? Try having kids! My wife and I have a debt we could never repay to the sleep gods!

    CHESTNUTXE, gerg and deankxf reacted to this
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