Valvebouncer

When it comes to this I think there are 2 types of people, the ones who want to learn and have a go and others that are smart enough to realise when to leave it to someone else. I say secondhand because a Cleveland block can easily gobble up a couple of grand in machining and even more of the bores need sleeving. If a seller is legit they will have a receipt for the build and the engine builder should be open to talking to you about it and a quick refresh of rings and bearings and maybe revise the cam to suit you. Honestly, a cam, rebuild carb and exhaust will wake it up a tad but it still will have its doors blown off by a stock fg n/a falcon.

Shop around, a lot you could get second hand if your patient. What I described there is more of an older build from when I was playing with Cleveland’s 15 years ago. Try swap meets, you get some good buys at them.

I see only one way around this. Build an angry as hell clevo. 850dp on a single plane high rise, chi heads, crane f260/f246 solid cam, good set of forged pistons, 10.5-11:1 comp, 6 inch rods, fully balanced with pacemakers 4 into 1 with dual 3 inch collectors twin pipes with 1 magnaflow muffler in each dumped at the diff. 3500 stall c4, 3.89:1 diff. Spray fish oil on the body. Done

Speaking of serpentine belts, this may help some people

87/88 was supposed to be the change over year, basically if it's a roller cam engine it should have the 351 firing order

Yeah it’s 1988 build, 1989 Aussie compliance. Not a roller cam but still efi.

Hence the reason for my question, you changed the cam which dictates firing order. So is this the same as a late or early Windsor?

Efi 302 was changed to clevo/351 windsor firing order 13726548

Not all. That f250 I did had the earlier injection system and the carby firing order

i bought a edelbrock performer new for $310 ,also new manifold bolts,should turn up tomorrow or monday.

So what’s the firing order in this beast?

All good guys here! Dean is a top bloke and wealth of knowledge

Bypass module fixes smartlock forever and ever. Don’t worry Dean, you’ll get used to technology

Probably, pull it down first, maybe your lucky and it’s not corroded away.

The hard part is finding pipes that aren’t corroded as they don’t make them any more. Do the headgasket when the motor is out, fit a multi layer steel (mls) AU spec gasket and new head bolts. Don’t forget there is a Welsh plug hidden behind the flywheel in the block too.

Everyone differs in their opinions. I differ from Dean, I prefer the ohc over a crossflow ( Dean also likes Gemini’s so we just pretend to like him and be interested in his car ). Do what you want.
I’m telling now that if that motor needs Welsh plugs it’ll need more, like water pump, head gasket and the metal pipes that run around the motor will be corroded too. It’ll be a big job to change it all over. Like Dean said, airbox mounts, I’m not sure on the radiator mounting. You can remove the entire dash from the firewall and just put it straight into the Xf and switch the heater box too, the wiring is different.

You’ll just have to start from the back and work your way forward cracking every join until you get fluid. Then you can figure out what is going on. BA did have a recall on the flexible hoses failing, maybe you have an inner lining failure. Either that or debris has flung up and flattened a metal line.

It isn't a one toner ute so it doesn't have a proportion valve. 

Hmm, are the rear brakes working when you apply the brakes?

did that but absolutely nothing comes out. Even with heaps of pressure on the brake pedal.
 

Jack up the diff, the proportioning valve maybe stopping it.

I've got a BA2 xr8 ute that i'm trying to bleed the brakes on. I bleed the front ones ok but I can't bleed the rear. No fluid comes out. I loosened the brake line at the master cylinder and fluid came out then loosened at the ABS unit and fluid came out then loosened the rear line at the ABS unit and no fluid comes out at all. What am I doing wrong?

Pull the bleed nipple right out, if fluid comes out the nipple has crud in it ( fairly common). If that fails get someone to apply light pressure to the brake pedal as you loosen the nipple. Just make sure you don’t suck in air or run it dry, you’ll stuff the abs unit.

As far as I'm aware the Windsor bolts weren't torque to yield, but I've bought new ones for all of the roller 5.0's I've done, sometimes they've been corroded pretty bad on the bolts that go into the water jacket

My understanding was the same, when I asked at auto shops for headbolts I kept getting the response “ use the old ones mate” to which I replied “ you just stick to ordering in the parts and taking my money and I’ll stick to screwing them together”. I ended up buying them from outlaw speed shop in S.A. They turned up the next day, $94. Heaps cheaper than anyone here.

I re did them with sealer thismorn


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What sealant did you use?

So what is the verdict on head bolts? Are they torque to yield or normal?@Thom?

Believe it or not, I bought new flywheel bolts from ford. Barras run the same metric bolts.

Bell housing is different

You need to measure the cover and balancer. If they are the same the top one looks like a normal front seal.

Yes, were they new bolts you fitted? They had torque to yeld head bolts from the factory that are a one time use as they stretch.

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Not the one I did. I had to replace them any way as some fuckwit previous mechanic lost one bolt and replaced it with a normal bolt.

Use holden head stud sealant, it’s the best stuff and the only decent thing to ever wear a holden badge.

With the roller 5.0 blocks all the bottom row of head bolts go into the water jacket. The top row should be blind.




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It doesn’t hurt to put stud sealant on the inlet manifold bolts that go into the water jackets too.