Valvebouncer

Hey all, I'm after a bit of advice with crossflow alloy head. I have 3 heads with casting numbers c1,c2 and e2. From what I can gather there are some differences between the heads but what are they? Is either of these heads better than the others? If so, why?

Hey guys, So I've got a BW35 in my ute at the moment that seems to shift well the only problem is the kick down cable is frayed and broken. I have a BW40 sitting in the garage with a kick down in it. My question is, can I pinch the cable out of the 40 and put it in the 35? Is there any other major difference between the boxes? I figure it's easier ( lazier) to ask here first rather than flood my garage with auto fluid leaving it looking like a murder scene.

Very clever! Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

I remember that car, it was cheap too. It's a shame really, the crossflow is an awesome engine Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Very nice! I did see your ute on Ebay a while ago. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Hey bro! I've been busy moving house and renovating. For now its quiet, itll ramp up again though. How are you chesty? Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

That's nuts! Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

You are better off getting an old head bolt and cutting slots into it than using a tap. You run the risk if taking metal off the thread rather than cleaning the funk out Funk = gunk [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

There should be a bigger gap at the crown than at the skirt. The crown cops the combustion blast and heat, there is more metal there. Therefore it expands the most. Don’t worry about it, just slap it together and get it in that Xf ute of yours.

Ok, I’ll bite, why don’t you just turbo it? [emoji51]

Weird. Has someone cut a hole in them?

Take photos, lots of photos. Get a cardboard box, flatten it out and every bolt you take out push it into the cardboard, draw a circle around it and any others you take from the same place then write where they come from. No memory required!!

It can be done in the car but it’s a pain. If you have air conditioning you will have to degas it as the camshaft comes out the front you’ll have to remove the condenser and radiator. Replace the lifters with the camshaft, this will be a lot easier to do with the head off. Honestly, I would find the job easier and probably faster removing the whole engine and doing it on a stand. You might as well replace all the bottom end gaskets and also give it a quick hone if the bores are ok. That along with new rings and bearings means you’ll end up with a nice fresh engine

Have you measured it to make sure it’s round though? It may be out of round down the bore. No lip is just one of the signs

If you want this 351 to make decent power I’d be checking the bored first. There is no point buying rings if it needs a rebore then new pistons and rings

Auto Surplus are awesome, they only sell quality stuff. I buy all my gaskets through them.

Agreed!

You’ll need a new unit and it needs to be programmed into the car. Speak to either a car stereo mob or Ford

Use phosphoric acid. This stuff https://www.bunnings.com.au/bondall-1l-ranex-rustbuster-rust-remover_p1560863

Molasses 1 part to 9 parts water will do the same thing but takes about a week

I remember that!

I remember it had a top loader with triple webers on the crossflow. He was telling us he would shift at 6,500rpm. This is in the very late 1990s.

He used to have a dark bluey purple tc/td cortina many years ago, nice guy, always up for a chat.

So your car won’t start after you refitted the icc after dropping it? If so it is part of the CANBUS system ( think Christmas tree lights- in series) if all the modules in the car aren’t working properly or programmed properly the car won’t start, it’s a security feature.