Panko

Not sure what you mean 100% Dean. The photo below is my XF caliber bolted to the XD bracket, i now just want to try bolting the bracket back onto the diff, with caliber and disc etc to check alignment. I just dont want to have to remove mine then have to re-bleed the brakes.

Hi guys, does anyone in Vic have a spare XF rear disc brake caliber i could borrow (yes just borrow) to test bolt up to the new diff.

Cheers

Hi guys, avout to change the diff in the wagon, while its out i want to reset the leafs. What is a ball park figure of cost involved, and what do i need to do in prep before i take them in to be done?

Cheers

So i spoke to a diff place, oldschool wog guy. He said no XF calipers wont go on XD. However Dean, that photo above, which is the diff that im meant to be getting off Mark, the calipers look the same as my XF ones. So ill get Mark to send me good pics of the calipers.

Hmm ok. Ill need to do a run down to take a look at it. The diff in question is at Marks place.

Are the discs at least interchangable between xd and xf? Cos mine havent done much work.

Well i did my brakes up. I think the calibers are larger and XFs run ventilated discs, XDs are solid.

BUMP!.

anyone else care to comment on this? 

Hi guys.

It is possible ill be putting an XD 2.92 diff into my XF wagon, but i want to keep my XF brake calibers and ventilatied rotors.

Is this a straight swap?

Ok so good and bad news.

Today i put the wagon up on stands, put the car in gear, handbrake off and rocked the wheels back and forth, while someone held the trailshaft still. The slop in the diff was way more than we expected. It appears to be mostly in the crown and pinion wheel meshing.

I decided to doing a service on it. Dropped the oil, new gasket, oil, and a Penrite LSD specific additive. The result, it has cut the shuddering down by i reckon about 75%. So to me this proves the diff is the issue. Still has a slight shudder because the diff needs rebuilding. But it is smooth now. The axle does not knock when doing tight turns in my court, and i can reverse up my driveway now.

You can you'll need a crowbar, jack the car up and remove the inspection plate from the bellhousing then set up a dial indicator in the snout of the crank, use the crowbar/ big screwdriver to move the crank back wards against the flywheel, zero the dial indicator then move the crank forward using the inner part of the harmonic balancer and read how much movement you'll have, a workshop manual should be able to tell you the tolerances for crank endplay

Ok cheers. Maybe ill give that a shot on the weekend.

One last question, because i havent done this before, what do the dial indicators look like? Where am i likely to get one?

So its plausible, comsidering my engine has never been rebuilt, and has now got 323,000 on the clock.

Is there a way of checking without pulling the engine out and apart?

If it is the crank end float, i think i might cry, and the car might end up going on holidays until i can be bothered fixing it

Something that Sparky Dave, and my dad both just suggested to me, in seperate conversations, is that part it could the end float in the crank in the engine. Keeping in mind the car was auto up until about 5 years ago.

Has anyone heard of this being an issue? Excessive end float in the crank causing this type of problem?

Can a drum brake diff can be converted to disc brake easily? There are a few 2.92. Diffs LSDs, but drum brake on ebay. There is even one with sway bar mounts which i would go for so i can fit a rear sway bar to my wagon, but again its a drum brake diff.

There is always the matter of, if i buy another diff, im obviously goiing to get it done up, but whos to say its not completely stuffed internally?

How much should i be paying for a diff from a wreckers? There is one on ebay from a wreckers in melbourne for $150. On top of that i need to get it done up.

Ideally i want a 2.92. But again i was having trouble finding a disc brake, lsd leaf spring 2.92. If i can find one, ill get it checked out, serviced then put that in the car.

Hmmm ill have to measure it when i can. I looked at the tail shaft last weekend, it looked identical to mine.

Chris, too big of a file. Id have to cut bits out of it, then shrink it, otherwise id be uploading forever lol

thanks guys. Changing the tailshaft is the next piece of the puzzle for the wagon...process of elimination. 

I had the ingenious idea today, or setting up my GoPro on the drive way, and slowly rolling the car back and forth loading it up, to see whats going on under near when the driveline is shuddering. 

what i saw was very interesting. Im not starting to think its the unis. the front uni, vibrates significantly for a couple seconds after initially coming to a dead stop. in the video i can see the yoke is still, but the tailshaft on the other side of the front uni shakes a little until it settles, like the uni is shot. 

Something else i can see in the videos, is the backlash in the diff. When i initially start letting the clutch out, it is clear as day the moment the diff actually takes up, because the tailshaft, instead of rotating smoothly like id expect to see, it "jolts" as the slop in (what i think) the diff finally takes up. I know there is meant to be a certain about of backlash, but for it to be visible in HD footage from under the car, tells me there is too much backlash, or slop in the diff. 

I really can't think of anything else it could be, after the gearbox has just been rebuilt, with new clutch. so i think its down to tail shaft and/or universals, and the diff. I am going to try another tailshaft I'm borrowing off a mate, which is of unknown history, its out of an XG. so process of elimination. wish me luck. 

Further more to my other thread regarding issues with the diff, can anyone tell me the length of a x series wagon tailshaft? 
 

Cheers

Isnt there a mob in the US that sell upper and lower control arms for mustangs and early falcons, that suit the the shelby drop mod? Or am i just talking crap? lol it was a long time ago i remember seeing them.

Bahaha i was waiting for someone to say that. Only a matter of time.

Probably about 2 years ago. Maybe 20,000kms since doing it. Also added some thickner/conditioner to the oil to try help. It was quiet for a couple months then started again

Ok so in a straight line, its not the spider gears, however i live on a court bowl, and if i turn around in the court in neutral, as its doing the tight turn the diff makes a bit of clunking or rattling noise until i either straighten the car up, or i put it gear and put some load on the diff.

It could be engine mounts, again. I replaced them about 18 months ago, chasing the the same issue. It did help, a bit, because they had both snapped, so maybe the shudder has caused them to break again.

Hi guys,

So if any of you have been followung the thread on my wagon, you will know for some time now i have been chasing a bad driveline shudder. Taking off, reversing, and down shifting when i dont rev match. I run a T5 5 speed in my XF wagon. I comverted it to manual from auto, so im still running the original 2.77LSD with the T5. Some people dont agree, but i love that combo.

Ok, so just today i picked the car up from having a rebuilt box, new clutch, reco flywheel all fitted up to the car. The box has new synchros, new V8 (brass) extension housing bush, seals, bearings. Smooth as, and i can now down shift without rev matching, and it doesnt shudder. BUT, i still have the shudder taking off from a standing start in 1st, and even worse in reverse.

SO, the diff is the one and only thing i havent touched in the driveline. Unis have been done. And now new box and clutch.

The noise it makes when shuddering, is like a "clatter", my father who knows a fair bit has suggested the plantery gears could be worn. Could that be a possibility or could the diff just need adjusting and shimming to take some slop out of it?

Any help would be awesome. Im going to take the car back to transmission guy to see what he says (Ford specialist) im at a loss with it, and i am a little upset, after all the money i just spent getting the work done, i honestly never thought it could be diff, but there is now no other option.

I dont want to have a shot at anyone here, it annoys when people are (sometimes) narrow minded, and have a biased opinion about a manufacturer, just because of something they have been told or read. 

I rebuilt the front end in my XF wagon roughly 4 years ago, using Nolathane rebuild kit. At the time, the car was a daily driver, and since has done about 100,000km, and the suspension is still nice. its a little hard, but none of it is split. only 1 bush has split and that is a 1 of the 8 sway bar link bushes. 
as for tie rod ends and ball joints, i went through R&E Auto Parts, who sell Road Safe brand. again, not 1 issue with them. even the rubbers are still in good condition, and have no signs of splits, after all this time. Now i know, a few people i have spoken to say Road Safe is shit, and they fall apart etc etc. but i think from my experience, it proves otherwise. I personally would not go to places like Rare Spares for suspension components, but rather stick to what I know have been good, places like Burson's and R&E.