Panko
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15
Posts posted by Panko
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Just now, slydog said:I run a cooler around mine???
where do you run the pipes?
The only way id get an intercooler pipe around there with the battery in situ is if it was silicone and squished down a tad.
otherwise if i go a narrower radiator, i could potentially run the original HKS intercooler from the original turbo kit, which actually mounts to the driver's side of the radiator and mounts vertically.
its probably not that efficient, but if i want the HKS kit to look period, the narrower radiator should allow this.
Chris, if i went that path, id probably be inclined to run thermos anyway, so shroud wont be an issue.
Ill keep the copper radiator and store it to repair at a later date, but going aftermarket gives me options to make some more room for piping etc.
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1 minute ago, deankdx said:not going to look as original with an alloy radiator with fans on it either though
no. but the black ones are more discrete at least. I could also run with the clutch fan still
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14 minutes ago, deankdx said:i had a 3core copper radiator in the narrow width in one of My cars, it was excellent. better than the wide 2 core ..
can your one be repaired? if it's not rotten it might only have rubbed through one fin, simple solder job by a pro will have it good as new(or as good as is was)
yeah but as i said above, if i can narrow it down, i might have a good chance to run pipes through for intercooler. currently there isnt much space, if at all, to pass through pipes.
also if i go narrower, i might be able to run the original HKS intercooler next to the radiator like its meant to. make it look a little more original under the bonnet when the turbo kit goes in
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1 minute ago, slydog said:Copper is worth alot more than ally. Mine is a stock AC falcon sedan rad I paid $50 for.
haha second hand bargain?
im also considering running a narrower XD radiator, so i can pass intercooler pipes around the driver's side end tank. i cant do that with the XF radiator, its 100mm wider than an XD radiator
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51 minutes ago, slydog said:Stock copper radiator works just fine. Mine uses a AC copper radiator and I haven't had to turn the fans on unless im trying to cool it after shut down. Even when pro charged with a single 14" fan it never got hot?
funny thing is, the copper ones are twice the price of an ebay alloy lol.
mine has never gotten hot. but yesterday decided to pop
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Hi guys,
I just blew up the radiator in the XF
Given the new engine going in isn't exactly stock, and will eventually be turbocharged, I am looking at an alloy radiator. Ive heard mixed opinions of the eBay ones. But has anyone here got hands on experience with them?
in particular this unit below.
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5 hours ago, STARK said:cool miss Xfalcon assume normally opened/ closed would be electric side of things ? have a late throttle body with IAC mounted to it just haven't got there yet lol.
What car are You putting this late model TB in?
i looked at doing this, but on a crossflow in an X series, the bonnet will not shut.
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1 hour ago, STARK said:I went middle of plenum opposite throttle body figured air temp there would be most accurate and ea series 1 engine wiring used (engine loom separate from main ) puts plug in the right spot.
yeah thats what I tried to do, but Fed up and did it on the top side...course didn't measure before hand, the bonnet wouldn't close with it there.
when the engine comes out for the new engine to go in, ill re do it like you have.
deankxf reacted to this -
more progress on the car. Back panel is in, but not welded. just getting things all setup before being welded in.
more little imperfections being sorted out.
factory creases from panel and body joins being smoothed.
tonight after hours, we made a start on the underside of the car. got most of it done and prepped. (this was after only a short amount of time)
Awaiting a conclusion as to how far Mark wants me to take the underside. Or rather, how far I think I should go with the underside of the car. given we got so much of it cleaned and back to bare metal tonight, id imagine another solid day and it will be ready to go underneath.
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As i sort of tried to say above.
like for like, and this is coming from watching an engine builder (also fellow RSOCV club member) who specialises in building fast escorts, a 1600 on a low budget can produce more power, and rev better than a pinto with the same low budget spent on it.
This is a guy who builds them with his own custom cam grinds, and engine dynos each engine and tunes them before giving them back to the customer.
a stock 1600 (for arguments sake Ghia spec with 32/36 factory) vs a 2L Ghia Pinto (same carby) makes not much less power than the pinto.
stick a mild cam, some basic porting, balance, side draft carbs into a 1600, and its making some solid power.
its been proven by said engine builder, Pintos take more time, money and work to make the same sort of gains than it does a 1600.
the 1600 is also a lot lighter than a Pinto.
and it is a stronger engine.
An old school trick was to stick 1300 pistons in a 1600. I have a set of 1300 pistons here. It raises the comp ratio significantly.
I wasn’t going to explain why shifting the Pinto back on the mounts Doesn’t work, but Rod already explained it for me.
It also would be mighty close to the heater bubble, if it were to clear at all, when shifted back on the mounts. They are a long engine.
as for engineers, yeah wouldn’t need it.
But there would be expense in upgrading brakes. Im pretty sure a Pinto wont fit with the original Mk1 booster like it is. Or if it does, the headers would be mighty close to the booster arm that bolts to the firewall.
Fingers, 2redrovers and deankxf reacted to this -
10 minutes ago, Outback Jack said:2L pinto conversion would of been heaps cheaper even with 4speed they are great fun. Can even get twin cam heads for them.
As the old saying goes. "No substitute for Cubic Inches".
Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk
yeah but ive said this before. Im not cutting the shell to make it fit. and to be honest, the OHC Pinto are an ok engine. but they are surprisingly hard to balance when you start modifying them. believe it or not, a 1600 is easier to balance, will rev harder than a pinto, and can make more power than a pinto with the same money put into either engine. and i dont need to cut the body shell.
This is why im not keen on doing a zetec into this car either. it means no cutting. remember that I am modifying my 5 speed gearbox to suit the shell, rather than the other way around. simple, im not cutting this car to make things fit.
deankxf, Outback Jack and Fingers reacted to this -
10 minutes ago, Mr Polson said:
I remember my brother had a Ford Ka for a while, they basically run an injected Kent motor from I found about it. Wasn't a particularly fast car but was great on fuel
$2k in parts is cheap
I paid almost that just for the ZF6 to LandCruiser transfer adapterCorrect. The KA runs a Kent engine. Sadly produced less power and torque in the KA than in stock form in a Mk1 Escort
in the UK they used the Kents also in the original Mk1 Fiestas. I wish we had them here.
yeah well some of us dont work full time. And had 8 months of no income last year
i know $2k is cheap.
im looking at the prospect of $5k for transmission, transfer box and clutch rebuild in the Discogerg reacted to this -
fecking cars...or should i say, fecking english cars
quick connector for return fuel line broke and popped off...thankfully low pressure, but diesel everywhere
deankxf reacted to this -
1 minute ago, 2redrovers said:Probably will.....
hmm maybe I see a future build coming on
My original (gold) Mk1 which i never finished, was always meant to be a daily driver, and i stupidly didnt jump on an MX5 driveline into escort conversion when I had the chance, to turn the gold nugget into a reliable modern daily.
2redrovers and deankxf reacted to this -
we will see. give it a few years, if you still have it sitting around
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if there is ever a time i get another escort, that starts as a rolling shell, then id look at doing an engine swap like that.
2redrovers reacted to this -
2 minutes ago, 2redrovers said:2-2.5k for an engine conversion is reasonably cheap compared to other swaps and the build of a 1600 would take that much easily yes? If you really want to run down that road you just have to supply the engine and gearbox for any mods pre paint and then it goes home on a truck to finish the set up... Just a thought you've probably already had. Question is which block do you actually want?
I love the idea of a Zetec, but i think i do want to keep the 1600 pushrod engine in this car. i am intending to fuel inject it one day, using an injected carby, but for now a carby fed 1600, tuned right is the way i will go.
2redrovers reacted to this -
1 minute ago, 2redrovers said:
What's the cost of supporting systems? Is there a cheaper "stock" way to get it running that you could upgrade later and spread the cost out a bit?I havent really looked into it in depth.
But I would need a sump from the UK, which are expensive, coolant pipe to suit RWD applications, either individual throttle bodies, twin carbies or a forward facing plenum with single throttle body, ECU.
Mark has just done it to his Mk1 panelvan.
Like i said, engine is cheap. but then there is probably upwards of $2k in parts to make it happen
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9 hours ago, 2redrovers said:
Does the gearbox still work with zetec?yep. the bolt pattern is the same from Kent (my 1300) through to zetec. the block is basically the same block, but alloy, and OHC
2redrovers reacted to this -
4 hours ago, gerg said:Zetec swap here we come
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Tempting. I could pick up a Zetec for about $200 from a wreckers. Its all the supporting shit thats expensive.
then again, a built 1600 is well into the thousands
gerg reacted to this -
2 minutes ago, deankdx said:you can tell it's not a gemini.. because there is a boot floor that doesn't look like your spare wheel well..
the repairs are coming along fast, guessing you will have to get a move on finding a 1600 with how fast it's moving along. what was the estimate of when it will be finished?They are expecting they will be ready to paint the outside at the end of the month.
I still have to get a block and the gearbox over there, which is fine, to mod the crossmember mounts right.
As long as Mark is ok keeping the car, i can delay some of the work until i have the bits needed.
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I went and saw the car today. It was pretty surreal to see it stripped down now with glass out, the rear panel been cut out, and see some bare metal.
to put a bit more pressure on me, i said to Mark im not sure how i will go fitting the engine and gearbox without scratching the new paint in the engine bay, to which he said, HE would much prefer me to fit the driveline there at his workshop, with the use of his hoist, by dropped the subframe out, putting the engine and box on that, and lowering the car down onto the subframe, how they were built from factory. BUT, that means I have to find a 1600 before the car leaves the shop
I have also been given free run of the workshop. I am picking up a key and alarm code from Mark on friday night, and a couple of us are going in on saturday to clean up the underside of the car, to get ride of all the oil, dirt and surface rust, so they can spray the underside in subframe black. filthy work, but it needs to be done.¼ panel repaired. The reason it was so full of bog was because when it was repaired previously, the shop that did it had use a slide hammer, then never bothered to fix up the spots the slide hammer attached to, so just used bog to smooth it all over.
antenna hole is filled. I had told them not to put an antenna into the new guard. when mark told me they had ended up repairing the original guard, i figured they'd leave the antenna hole...nope.
rear panel gone and floor all straightened out again.
the one spot of rust in the entire car. the spare wheel well. i thought that would be the case. someone had done a pretty bad backyard repair job in there to try stop it. now its been stripped its brought it right out.
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2 minutes ago, Fingers said:It's one of those situations where you are better off going the extra mile
absolutely. and I am keen to continue to approve more work on it.
at the end of the day, as long as the shell is in perfect condition, if that is where all my budget goes, just into the shell, im fine with that. the extra stuff like engine upgrade, steering rack, brakes etc, can be out of pocket in the future.
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Woo.
Tomorrow I will have some progress photos. I am going to see the car in the morning before work.
What I know is the back panel has been cut out, so that will be interesting to see, and the front left ¼ panel they ended up repairing instead of replacing. apparently spent a solid days work on it to get it properly straight, all the bog removed and currently in bare metal.There has been phone calls back and forth over the past couple weeks just figuring out more and more details. I think my bill from the panel shop is going to be higher than i originally intended, but i cant help myself, asking them to do extra stuff
They are going to roll the guards, so my 13x6 steel rims will hopefully fit. they have a lower offset than my alloys, so they are going to stick out about 10mm further. by rolling the guards i should have no issues with clearance.
They have also inspected the chassis, on the driver's side where my front leaf spring eye is on the chassis. Its always been in the wrong spot, appears to have been welded in the wrong spot from factory. 10mm further back, hence i have always run offset pinned lowering blocks. well, they are going to fix that also, and get the eye mount in the correct spot
Mark has given me free rain of the workshop, so i can come and go whenever i like if there is anything id like to do underneath the car, especially now while its in the air. He suggested i spend some time over there getting the underside cleaned up and body deadened/stone guarded.
On the gearbox front, Rod ( @2redrovers) helped me finished cutting the extension housing. I have spent some time getting it ready to be welded, but since then, I have been flat stick at work. I am temporarily filling a management role at work until march, so in an office from around 10am until about 5pm every day. makes progress very very slow
In the mean time, I have also had the alternator on my LR Discovery 2 spit the dummy, so have spent the last couple nights after work getting that ripped out, and hopefully will have the new unit in, and car running again tomorrow night. So i have been without my daily driver too.
Anyway, ill grab some photos of the car tomorrow to share with you guys. Im kind of excited to see the progress, but super nervous about it too
eBay radiators
in Cooling System
Posted
yeah XD V8 are also narrow shrouds.