Panko

Water or coolant? Im also going to be cpt obvious, have you looked at your oil to make sure you havent blown a head gasket.

Hi guys, After having the XF broken into twice in the space of a few months a couple years ago, i bought i high end alarm system, with remote locking, but have never installed it. So my first and main question is, does anyone know if the central locking in an xf is positive, or negative power to fire it? The instructions say i need to know, and wire the remote locking in the correct configuration to make it fire correctly. Second of all, are they easy to install?

Hi guys, Just after a good a place to source decent fuel pumps. In this case for my XF wagon, the in-tank pump is the one im chasing, for an EFi wagon.

i remember when i replaced the pump back in 2008, it actually took me ages to get one. i had to do a fair bit of running around to find one. Hopefully that isn't the case now.

its fecking annoying that the return line is lower in the tank than the pick up to the pump.

Yeah mine just buzzed for a few weeks until it went quiet and died.

I killed an old fuel pump from running it dry. But not this one. This pump has probably done about...120,000km. I put it in in 2008.

Haha thanks again VDO. I havent started yet. Ill probably sit down and go through the wiring diagram on the alarm tomorrow. I have a small side project going on at the moment, and while i have the wagon locked away a garage, its relatively secure. Ill attack in soon though. Its something i have been needing to do for ages, just been too scared. However after wiring all my gauges up, i am a little more confident that i could do this.

I suspect my pump is going. I have a fuel surge issue when it gets under half a tank of fuel, and with the new fuel pressure gauge, i can see the pressure dropping off when i got around left hand bends (fuel running away from pump) but it dont think it should surge the way it does.

Yeah chris, your probably right. VDO cant go wrong. After all im running their gauges in the wagon, one of which is 40 years old lol. Thanks Jack. I might go see those guys in person. I want to ask them about some other stuff as well.

Thanks mate, That is brilliant bit of info. I will keep this bookmarked so i can give it a crack. When you say the connections will be carried out in the driverd door, do you mean that the driver's door is the only door i have to do wiring in?

Hi guys, After having the XF broken into twice in the space of a few months a couple years ago, i bought i high end alarm system, with remote locking, but have never installed it. So my first and main question is, does anyone know if the central locking in an xf is positive, or negative power to fire it? The instructions say i need to know, and wire the remote locking in the correct configuration to make it fire correctly. Second of all, are they easy to install?

Hi guys, After having the XF broken into twice in the space of a few months a couple years ago, i bought i high end alarm system, with remote locking, but have never installed it. So my first and main question is, does anyone know if the central locking in an xf is positive, or negative power to fire it? The instructions say i need to know, and wire the remote locking in the correct configuration to make it fire correctly. Second of all, are they easy to install?

yeah i agree George, but the reason i went with a fuel pressure gauge is mainly for monitoring it. i occasionally get fuel surge issues, where it would appear fuel pressure is dropping off. it could be as simple a fuel pump about to die, but at least ill be able to keep an eye on it.

Haha no i wont be haha. Thats only for mechanical fuel pressure guages, where the gauge requires a fuel line up to the back of the gauge. We have the same rule in victoria. But the gauge i am ordering has an elctronic sender like an oil pressure gauge, so there is zero fuel inside the cabin

I really like that clint, how did you go with the pocket behind the hole? Is there enough room to put the gauges to go in without them getting cuaght up on the pocket behind?

i was looking at just mounting them in the factory pocket down there, which is angled up anyway, but they are straight towards the back of the car, rather than towards the driver, which I'm ok with.

Clint, I can tell you that Wasp Units are very good, and i highly recommend them. My xf, the whole front end (ball joints, tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm etc etc) is all Wasp, and my bushes are all Nolathane. The car has done i think about 60-80,000kms with all that in there, as a daily driver until the start of this year, and not a problem. everything is straight, tight and still works. the only thing i had to replace was the idler arm for roady because the urethane bush at one end split. i put the identical unit back in, and its been fine since. I have taken the car to Adelaide from melbourne with that suspension in it a few times now, and its all still straight. so, i rate the Wasp stuff pretty highly.

anybody?

Hi guys, so I have just recently converted my XF Ghia wagon from dual fuel back to straight petrol, refitting a 72L fuel tank. The car is EFi (obviously being a Ghia). I am having an issue with the tank pressurising i think. After driving it for a period of time, I can pull up, and open the fuel filler cap and the tank will blow excessive amounts of air back out of the filler, or sometimes even spurt fuel back up the filler and onto the road. obviously its worse when the tank has more fuel in it than when the tank is low on fuel. As far as i am aware i have all the breathers the right way around, and all connected. Anyone got any ideas what might be causing this?

Hi guys, Im putting this out there to see what interest i can get. Im currently getting ready to rebuild the front door hinges in my xf. It has come to light that Rare Spares, have a huge back order on the pin kits, and therefore they are impossible to get at the moment. However, the bushes alone are available from ebay. I was going to use stainless hex bolts and nylock nuts in replacement for the pins, but unfortunately the pins are an odd size, and no metric or imperial bolts will fit nicely. So this has lead me to post this thread. At this stage the only alternative is, to have the bolts machined up to custom fit the bushes. Is anyone interested in a set? Ill provide the kits in two forms. 1. I provide custom machined nuts and bolts, with washers, no bushes (you source bushes from ebay yourself) or 2. I provide custom machined nuts and bolts, with washers, and bushes that i source from ebay on top of the cost of the bolts. I am getting at least 3 sets of nuts and bolts only machined up (front doors, rear doors and a spare to sell). So if someone else wants some made up, let me know by the end of the week. Cheers Panko

If the new pins are like the old ones where they have the splines on them, that might be a bit tight. At least with bolts with a straight shank, should slide straight in. Anyway, food for thought.

Thanks cav. If you can check in at Rares that would be great. If they happen to be in, ill make a decision then as to whether i go ahead with this nut and bolt conversion or go with the pins. Ill get a price either tomorrow or wednesday and get back to anyone interested then. The other main reason i thought of using nut and bolts was so it was much easier to remove doors. You can leave the hinges on the door and the car then, and just pull the hinge apart to get the doors off.

yeah if i had a lathe ha! which i don't.

Either way, it looks like my car has no holes in the chassis for brackets for drop links. Ill have the car up on ramps tomorrow so ill get a good look then,