XPT

6 injectors and a throttle body?

Xelisty I wasn't suggesting for a second you swap for a Barra, not after you've gone this far. I was just giving a comparison from what a tuner told me about AFR's and what he considered safe for a modern turbo engine, compared to a more old school engine Ando- I wasn't so much talking from a perspective of flow because the answer is obvious, more chamber design and detonation threshold. This is a stock head If I remember right, you would know a lot better than me about which heads have the best chamber shape from factory. Would this be an E1 head?

When I had the Supra tuned the tuner aimed for 11.5 AFRs he told me that with an XR6T he would aim for about 12:1 AFRs due to the more modern and obviously better head design among other things. I don't know where the xflow efi heads rate in comparison . The 7MGTE is 8.4:1 comp and both the Barra and EFI 250 are 8.7:1 comp, where this places the XFlow as far as a safe AFR I'm not sure, but you would imagine 11:1 AFRs would be safe

Are you talking auto or manual for 280rwkw? The dyno sheet he got with the car was from Silverwater Automotive Services.

Running very rich there mate for most of the top end

They're high impedance Ando, also available in 80lb/875cc. About the barra head/manifold yeah you would be right about better efficiency, but how much more efficient? Surely not the best part of 100rwkw more from almost the same size injectors? Not to mention coil on plug ignition. You would have to imagine there would still be a bit more in Xelisty's current injectors. Edit: I guess we can all speculate until the cows come home, One thing we can all agree on is that it needs to go back on the dyno.

A mate a had a BA XR6T manual making 315rwkw with Bosch green 42lb or 440cc injectors, just thought I'd throw that in. I will probably go for Siemens Deka 60lb injectors for mine. Especially at the price you can get them.

I don't quite follow. Normally when using a surge tank you have a lift pump which fills the surge tank, then you have your main pump which feeds from the bottom of the surge tank along the fuel feed line to your fuel rail, then out of the rail, into your fuel pressure regulator, out of the reg back down the return line, which feeds back into the surge tank. Then the surge tank has an overflow which returns to the main fuel tank, so the surge tank isn't under much pressure at all. Wouldn't you just use your existing 044 as your lift pump to the surge tank and the new pump (044?) pictured as your main pump from the surge tank? Your existing setup is using a FPR it won't run without it. Just the factory one by the looks of the pics in your original thread.

It would make sense to tune power out of it with the T5 behind it. Maybe they did this by retarding the ignition in the top end, though surely you would run less boost to limit the power and have a more usable rev range? Otherwise you have to run a very tall diff ratio to make use of the narrow "power band". Minimum boost level will be determined by the wastegate spring rating and the physical size of the wàstegate which at 42mm shouldn't be a problem. If you are running a 16psi wastegate spring it will need to be changed to a lighter spring to be able lower the boost. If you already have a lighter spring then you will be able to lower the boost pressure through the Haltech software. Your exhaust size is fine. Like mentioned earlier a CDI of some sort would be worthwhile, like an MSD 6A etc (6AL not needed as the Haltech would do the rev limiting). If you want to make more power then you would also have to seriously think about a gearbox upgrade. Obviously the usual auto options, with a manual you could go a few ways. A toploader is probably out of the question as it's only a 4 speed. A Tremec TKO, T56 or Toyota r154 (Supra Turbo) with a Dellow or possibly CRS bellhousing. A trip to the dyno will point you in the right direction. So you already have an 044 is that running with the stock in tank pump as an inline lift pump?

XCsedan, would have to disagree with you on the turbo. The 3788r is only slightly larger all round than a 3582r and you only have to look at the mountain of torque at low rpm to see that spool up isn't a problem.

Yep, the Turbo, wastegate and other hardware look well and truly up to the task of making big power. What about a cdi ? Is it just an upgraded coil? Down the track you could look at upgrading the intake manifold but that wouldn't be the most limiting factor by any means.

It certainly makes a mountain of torque. Very impressive, if you could just get that torque curve to hang on for a bit longer. Just looking at it your turbine housing looks sizeable. Maybe ask Mike Vine for the turbo specs? Maybe get the cam specs from the previous owner too. Anyway it's a very neat setup, will leave further comments to your thread.

I know you guys are going back on topic, anyway Xelisty I would suggest that maybe your turbine housing is on the small side if you're hitting the brick wall and that your wàstegate maybe on the small side also if you're struggling to control boost. After that top end power can be increased through camshaft selection and intake mods, manifold design etc Edit: and of course stating the obvious, a bigger turbo

Wow is that hammer tone? Ask them and if they would accept that on their car. I doubt it,

Might need a shaker for the Griswold mobile

With that setup there I would add extensions to the factory runners to at least clear the fuel rail. I don't know if you remember the pics of my intake but I did that by cutting off the banana runner flanges and welding them to straight pieces of 38mm ally tube, then bolted each one up to the injector port part for alignment as I welded the runners to the plenum. I'm not sure about what exact runner length is best as I think it varies with capicity. From what I understand on a turbo engine the rule of thumb is short runners and a large plenum of around 1.5 x engine capicity is optimal. Take a look at most aftermarket inlet manifolds for turbo cars, they all have large tapered plenums with short runners. For the record the runners on mine ended up about 120mm long in total, partly because of space

If it was me I'd rather adapt something like this : http://m.ebay.com/itm/291093531929 if you were going to that trouble. Still cheap and larger volume than the log manifold Edit: + shorter runners

I've got a jig made up for a single turbo clevo in my garage from when I did my mate's XB. Passenger side mounting. It's for 2V, same bolt pattern right? I'd just go with steam pipe, I tried to mod my mates cast manifold by welding a steam pipe elbow to it. I cut it off before the exhaust flange to get the correct position. I had it 90% welded using high nickel rods, preheating, peining etc and it cracked on the thin section on the cast manifold. I ended up starting again with steam pipe. Depends on where you live, but if you want the jig it's yours. I'm in Sydney. If you'd like pics or any info let me know.

Fuel tank vent issue?

Hey bud does it make boost at all? From what I can understand it has the symptom under load and when free revving?

Rod length does absolutely nothing to change capacity, you could have 3 foot long rods on a 351 crank and it will still be 351ci ( provided the block was tall enough)

http://store.encorempw.com/23lt5bellhousing.aspx The 2.3 motor in the 80's Mustang/T Bird is closely related I wonder if this would fit?

Sounds awesome mate, a DOHC XP would be a pretty challenging conversion on many fronts as I think some firewall, tunnel and engine bay surgery will definitely be on the cards. Bonnet clearance may also be an issue. For the NA setup I don't think the BBM will clear the shock tower or strut brace for that matter (unless you're removing them and making new ones). You might have to make a custom intake manifold or cut & shut an ea-ed log manifold. They have seriously tight engine bays, I've dropped a crossflow into my XP ute on custom mounts/crossmember even that will be tight once I squeeze in everything (turbo, manifold, dump pipe, radiator etc). I doubt an FG factory turbo and manifold will clear the strut tower when you eventually drop in the turbo engine. Intercooling will be a challenge as well without hacking up the front of the car. I will be running a water to air for that reason. As far as the ecu goes as Gerg said a J3 chip should sort the bcm issue out. The only disadvantage is not being able to run the VCT with the AU ecu. For the turbo motor ecu Nizpro are gurus on Falcon (Visteon?) ECUs, they used it to run a turbo Nissan VH45 V8 in a ski boat of all things, they even rate it above Motec. Or you could use an aftermarket ECU capable of running VCT and fly by wire throttle. Once you sort all of that out, engineering will be a hurdle. In the national guidelines for vehicle mods a 4 litre turbo isn't compliant in a car that light, which is why I'm doing a turbo 200 crossflow. Very interested to see how you do it, good luck!

No worries, the only reason I suggested triggering with boost pressure (map sensor) is because that is when the engine is under load and "needs it". Triggering with RPM might be ok for WOT under full load but say you're free revving it ,downshifting into a corner etc it might cough and splutter from being too rich. If you set it up through the ecu outputs to open the fuel solenoid at say 2psi you will always be cooling the charge at the right time. Edit: I guess you could use that in conjunction with a temp sensor so if you get a really cold/hot day it would change the switch point. Regardless of all that it's going to be a very fast car, and heaps of fun.

To keep the intake temps consistent and still keep the inlet tract short you could just run a water to air intercooler. Something like a PWR barrel cooler, there are much cheaper copies available nowadays. Meth injection seems like a lot of trouble when you have to muck around with nozzle placement etc. I don't know how much you have to inject to effectively cool the charge, but wouldn't now adding an air/fuel mixture to an unevenly distributed manifold lead to uneven AFRs across the cylinders? In the real world it may work fine and I may be completely shot down in flames, but intercooling would take a lot of the guesswork out of it all. Just my 2c To trigger the meth injection wouldn't you be better off triggering it with boost pressure rather than RPM?