XPT

I'd be pulling it down and checking it over. Perhaps broken ring land on cyl 3 ? What caused the turbo to fail? Oil seal failure? Oil starvation? Damage to compressor or turbine wheels? Be sure that you're running an restrictor on the turbo oil feed if recommend by the manufacturer and that your drain/return is within 15deg of vertical and adequate size and also unobstructed. After doing all that I'd throw it on the dyno and see what is happening with the afrs. What engine management is it running? Looks to me like it's all factory efi stuff. Is the meth injection switched with a Hobbs switch? If I was mine I'd run and air to air or water to air intercooler. I think that would give consistent intake temps without the hassle of filling the methanol tank. Also those factory efi intakes don't give even distribution, with the meth injection acting as a fuel source it will affect the afrs. If overall afrs are good on the dyno you still may have lean/overly advanced conditions in one or more cylinders because the cooling/enrichment isn't equally shared. This is just my opinion of course and others may have different ideas. Edit: With dry ice intercoolers, they still require a heat exchanger. Usually a container or jacket around the core with a lid to fill with ice. Yours just looks like a straight charge pipe from turbo to throttle body.

What about eb or el gt wheels? At least you will know they are decent quality. What sort of tyres are you running Falken Azenis, Hankook Ventus etc?

Depends on which model head you have. The earlier unmarked carby specific heads had no injector cutouts on the inlet ports whereas the later xf (c1 c1a etc) carb heads had the same injector cutouts as the xe-xf injected heads (e1/e2). If you have a factory efi manifold notching the inlet ports to suit the injector ports won't be difficult. You can't beat efi for any engine and for forced induction in particular. There are so many good quality affordable options , it will perform much better and more consistently than a blow through carby setup.

They can make it to order, they've made quite a few already.

Those eBay manifolds will work. Like wagoon said maybe not the best particularly the log manifold which is just a shared pipe with a hole cut in the middle. Sharp angles and pulse interference would result in response that was less than optimal and less top end power than better designs. In saying that the XR6T factory turbo manifolds are cast log designs but have smoother merges in the log and at the turbo flange. The factory ford design splitting the engine in half with the cylinders 1-2-3 feeding the front half of the merge and 4-5-6 the back half. With the firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4 there is reduced pulse interference with this log design than the 6:1 log essentially having the gasses collide before being squeezed out of the flange into the turbine housing at a right angle. Factory XR6T log manifolds support 400+ rwkw with great response running a Garrett GT3582r. So any design which is similar to that is not too bad a thing. The best log design would be the split design with a split pulse turbine housing keeping 1-2-3 and 4-5-6 completely separate, which the mike vine unit looks to be. For the absolute ultimate in power and response 6boost manifolds would be best they run an equal length 6-1 with a merge collector and long radiuses but at $1200+ they aren't cheap. The Mike Vine looks much better than the eBay log, probably not as good as the eBay long runner unit, in the real world there's probably not much between the two.The good thing is the 250 crossflow is a decent sized long stroke engine to begin with and it's lowdown torque will mask a lot of innefficiencies in a turbo setup, unlike much smaller peakier engines which need all the help they can get off boost.

They look a lot like an EA-ED OHC Mpi manifold.

BA-BF XR6T is a Garrett GT3582R with a 1.06AR turbine housing, they are ball bearing . You can get an exchange turbo for $1550 from GCG. It would have a new ball bearing cartridge and be as good as new. Or just get the CHRA for $1150. GAS/rotormaster do a bolt on upgrade too not sure of cost. Bolting the CHRA onto the comp cover and turbine housing is easy, just be careful not to damage the wheels. There are other turbos that could be made to fit, but would require mods to oil/water lines not to mention finding a turbo with a large enough ( xr6t is 1.06 AR ) turbine housing with a T3 flange to fit the factory manifold. All other aftermarket options with optimally sized turbine housing options are only available in T4 flange. You can get t3-t4 adapters, which aren't the best solution. You would make a new manifold. So a factory replacement or for something larger than factory - a 66mm comp wheel upgrade or "high flow " would be a good option and most cost effective in the end. Unless you're shooting for the stratosphere the factory turbo is a good thing. You may want to upgrade the wastegate port/flap while you're at it and possibly upgrade to a higher spring pressure actuator.

44mm is a decent size gate, I wouldn't have thought it to be a problem. I'd be checking the boost reference line for leaks, otherwise the wastegate diaphragm could be spilt/leaking. You can bench test it with compressed air, checking that it's opening properly. To test for internal leaks you charge the boost reference line connected to the wastegate with regulated (to spring pressure) compressed air with a ball valve and pressure gauge. Once wastegate cracks open shut the valve and watch the guage. It should hold pressure. Barring that, do you have the boost reference line on the correct port? It looks like you might have the reference hose on the spring side of the diaphragm on top looking at your page 2 pic anyway. It should be on the opposite side of the diaphragm working against the spring towards the middle of the actuator. If that is all good then perhaps the wastegate feed angle on the manifold is on the sharp side.

I bought my Walbro gss342 online, shop around. I got mine for $110 from memory

Not sure if you own your house or not. If you do getting a 15A circuit put in would really open your options as far a welders go. It really is annoying tripping the breaker all the time or having to turn the amps down and weld at snail pace. You could then buy a welder that will see out any project you have for the next 20+ years. I have the same Unimig 180 that wagoon has, I bought a Speedgas E size Argoshield equivalent bottle from Gasweld because it works out cheaper for me in the long run not paying yearly rental. I bought the Unimig because it has the replaceable Euro torch & liner which was the only one that did for the price as well as being a reputable brand. There are slightly better, more versatile inverter units such as the BOC 180A and CIG 175i which offer slightly better control and have a scratch start TIG function as well. At double the price of the Unimig they aren't double the welder to me and I already had a little TIG.

Looks badly pitted, looks like sleeves or another block

I will only add that above mods are not the end of it. You still then need a decent radiator,transmission (top loader or tremec + bellhousing,clutch, flywheel and a shifter), a fuel system, then a set of decent extractors + exhaust. That will easily add another 5k. Will be a shitload of fun when you do it though.

Your tyres will be quivering with fear

Forced induction?

I can vouch for Century batteries being shit in my car it only has to crank 8.4:1 with 240k on the clock and goes flat if you run the stereo for more than 1/2 an hour. Lots of sulphites too. You would be fucked at the drive ins, you wouldn't make it through the movie.

Like stated above, the SC14 is too small as it's from a Toyota 1ggze 2 litre DOHC inline 6. They aren't a performance engine, only rated at 125kw. To make meaningful boost on a 250ci engine you would need to spin it way too hard to be efficient. I've said this before : if you could run 2 of them then it might be interesting. Why bother though when you could get a decent Chinese turbo on the most shitty, ghetto J pipe manifold and make twice the power.

You'll end up making it sound like a 253 HQ tonner

The cardboard and sticky tape app

Cover your plates you knob. Sounds good though, you need to do those valve stem seals

I use a flapper disc for weld prepping on gal, it's not as harsh. Grind until sparks are coming off, job done. It welds fine

Just go 2-1/2 I've got 2 meters of it that I'm not going to use.

What I was saying is like this but in reverse...... You might need to get another wastegate actuator so that they have 1 each. A single actuator is strange.

It may squeeze in if you bring the rear turbo down and forward tucked underneath the manifold with the turbine entry approximately in line with cyl # 4, and re clock the comp cover to suit. I think some better pics would help

Why would you need 1000cc injectors for 200rwkw? Even Bosch green 42lb injectors like these: http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/1078880274 will do it with plenty of headroom. Maybe it's just me but I think it's being over thought. Where is the 7k+? If only running 10psi, just keep the 9.3:1 comp, get the tune right, happy days. Don't get me wrong it won't cost nothing but I think it's quite achievable to do this on a sensible budget with some thought. Running a grafted sohc intake manifold : not really worth it other than to have the throttle body facing forwards. They are still a small volume for a 250 Ci turbo engine anyway, having it modified by someone who can TIG ally will cost more money than it's worth. Money that could be spent on bigger gains elsewhere. Bolt up a 250 EFI bunch of bananas run a couple of elbows in the pipework and be done with it I say. If fabricating/modding the manifold yourself is a problem I would sit the front turbo and manifold in there. Cut off your rear manifold flanges and reposition the turbine flange by tacking on pieces of flat bar or angle between the header flange and turbine flange to dummy fit the rear turbo. Make your dump pipes fit and take the dummy positioned flanges to your fabricator with some dimensions of clearances etc and tell them you want these 3 pipes merged into that flange in the given space. That way they can make a jig and go from there. This will save money if you've done all the measuring for them. A basic $200 bar & plate intercooler will do the trick, single entry is fine. Just utilise the compressor outlet flanges & crossover pipework that you have. Merge the two compressor outlet pipes into a single 2.5" tube. It will require some cutting & shutting to change the pipe orientation. Depending on the room in the nose of the Cortina you may have to run a squarer style intercooler to fit it in. For intercooler pipework just use 2.5" mild steel mandrel exhaust bends welded together in combination with silicone bends. Get your intercooler mounted then go from there. It's not a 5 minute job but still, it's not a space shuttle either. It's a cool project, I'd love to see it happen.

Love the idea, will be very interesting. Like Wagoon says you could go high mount on the rear turbo, you just have ensure that your oil drain will clear the manifold and have a clear path back to the sump. Another idea is to keep the current manifolds, cut the rear turbo manifold off at the header flange and modify it so that the merge faces downwards (using steam pipe butt weld elbows) to hug the block. Hopefully you could then squeeze a 2.5" dump pipe between the motor and booster. Or could you just cut and re-weld the rear turbine flange with the dump flange pointing more towards the block and the comp inlet towards the drivers headlight? As for EFI, could you not get a hold of an XE-XF intake, throttle body, and fuel rail (not the ultimate but will work) and grab the TFI Dizzy while you're there. A set of Siemens deka 600cc injectors for $300 odd. Use your Holley blue as a lift pump, surge tank, Bosch 044 or Walbro, 1/2 fuel lines. I know shelling out for an ECU isn't cheap but you would get some sort of programmable ignition with a retard function for a turbo anyway, you may as well save a bit more and get EFI. If you're truly on a budget but handy with wiring you could run an E series ECU with a J3 chip and limit boost to 10 PSI, keep the same CR. Just a couple of ideas, hope they were helpful.