XPT

Oh yeah I totally forgot the Frankenstein build. I stand corrected, there's at least one blown Ford 6 on here. A blown crossy will be right in it's element being used in a tow vehicle, if a little thirsty lol.

I can't speak for everyone on here, but I don't think there's anyone on here with a roots blown 6. Turbos are far more popular for the Ford 6, it probably has a lot to do with packaging on an inline motor. Also the way that turbos (correctly sized of course)make boost suits the Ford 6 perfectly. They already produce good lowdown torque with their long stroke, where they fall away is up top in NA form. The turbo takes over where the engine would otherwise run out of puff. The way I see it the roots blower makes boost from idle and the 4L and 250 already make good lowdown torque without boost. Sure you would have a mountain of low to midrange torque, great for smoking tyres and not much else. It's far more challenging to run an intercooler on a positive displacement blower also as it requires you to either run a water to air heat exchanger sandwiched between the blower and manifold or an in/out diverter to divert the charge air to an air to air intercooler. That would only be relevant if running efiLike I said before if you just want one for the cool factor, no amount of reasoning will change that despite any drawbacks. Will a blown setup be fun to drive? Of course. Is it the best option for cost, power, overall drivability and packaging? No

Just to save confusion (or add to it) the gt3540 and gt3582r are the same turbo

That would be perfect with the 1.06 A/R turbine housing. There's cheaper options which are decent quality, you won't go wrong with a Garrett though.Edit: 6boost manifolds are great if you're going for no expense spared, 9's on the quarter setup. Otherwise a well designed/manufactured log manifold will be fine.

If you want a blower because you think they're cool then nothing anyone suggests is of any value, just save up and buy the kit. If you want to make power with drivability and economy, then go the turbo route. The price of going turbo all depends on the turbo you choose, how much fab work you can do yourself and how much research you're willing to do to save yourself some money.

That log manifold isn't the best it's just an open pipe with front & back cylinders feeding into each other and then the exhaust gases being forced around a sharp corner with the flange welded on the side of the pipe. There's also no such thing as an M24 turbo, that tells you nothing, it's a casting number or some sort of number used on Garrett compressor covers. You would be asking for a photo of the ID tag to identify the turbo specs and prove it's a Garrett too.

Lol. Yep, it solves everything. It just makes sense to me with a Ford 6 in particular (or any small capacity engine really).

Turbo the efi motor and you have the best of both worlds

Yep as the other guys have said AUs run coil packs. Come to think of it, why don't you just run the original dizzy, ecu and wiring loom just fit it all to the AU engine? You can still run a J3 chip on those earlier ecus

https://www.facebook.com/proboostperformanceparts/posts/966486790151468 this popped up on my newsfeed. This place has decent quality turbos for a reasonable price, they've got some good specials on at the moment. IMO the BA-BF gt3582r is the go if you aren't too keen on more fab work and want to keep it simpler as far as the manifold/dump pipe goes.

It depends on which turbo you end up using. The ba-bf xr6t gt3582r and fg xr6t gt3576r are both internally gated so if you get either of those that makes the choice for you, for an internal gate they are quite good. If you end up going for another turbo, most of your aftermarket choices with a turbo that is well matched to a 4L would be externally wastegated turbos. Silly question, you did intend on retrofitting a dizzy to your AU donk to run with your EL ecu right?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/132074197466 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/192084674673 Master Power R6564 Master Power turbos made in Brasil, good quality, very popular in the States as a decent affordable turbo that makes the numbers. I bought one for my car. It's T4 flanged, would be good on a 4L. In SA too. Only thing is they need an external gate

Yep that's the shift mod I was talking about. I reckon model your manifold off the factory XR6T which sits it vertically. If you're going to get the gt3582r turbo from the xr6t then you won't have to reclock the housings or muck around with the actuator rod which can be a pain. Also means less bends. One thing I will say is try to make the manifold so that the front/back 3 cylinders are split into 2 banks and then merged at the turbo flange. There are log manifolds that basically have all 6 cylinders going into one pipe with the front and back exhaust pulses flowing against each other, and then shoving a flange somewhere on the side of the log, yeah it would make boost but it's far from the best design.

For a street car a log manifold is fine, equal length manifolds have their place, but in this case not needed . Remember the factory xr6t cast manifold is a log and can support over 400rwkw. If you can weld half decent you'll be fine. You can get the steam pipe bits from Blackwoods or a steel supplier, you should be able to buy a laser cut header flange from an exhaust shop.

Buy a header flange, a T3 flange(depending on turbo choice), some sched 40 1-1/2" steam pipe bends, 4 tees and about half a metre of straight pipe, make yourself a log manifold with a Mig.You should be able to do the manifold for about $150. I'm happy to run you through it, it's a piece of piss. A good second hand Garrett gt3582r from an xr6T, sized perfectly with it's 1.06 ar turbine housing and it's internal wastegate for simplicity. Second option would be a Holset HX40 which are available with an internal wastegate, if you have to plumb in an external wastegate it's not hard to do. There are many options for turbos, you can probably go a cheap Chinese copy and be fine your wallet is the limit. Some Bosch green 42lb (440cc) injectors will do the job easily, or you could get a set from the wreckers out of an L67 supercharged V6 Dunnydore (36lb) and have them serviced. The stock fuel pressure reg should be fine, Walbro 255lph in tank pump will be fine. You should get a pile of 3" mild steel exhaust tube mandrel bends for both the exhaust and intercooler piping and a 500mm length of 3" silicone hose for joining your intercooler pipe. With the engine out and pulled down you should drill & tap your sump for the turbo oil return above the oil level obviously. I'd go for -10 AN minimum for oil drain. You can tee off the turbo oil feed from the oil pressure switch. If going with a water cooled turbo which the gt3582 is you can run it from before the heater tap and back into the heater return. A cheap electronic boost controller would also be worthwhile. If going the btr auto I'd do the "shift kit" mod to firm up the shifts and run a decent oil cooler. Engine management is up to your wallet, a J3 chip and 10PSI would be a lot of fun, it just limits you if you get a bit greedy later on. That's the most of it I think

Hey Ando, it's all looking good. Just one little thing to watch out for when you're tig welding. See the dimple on the finishing points of the welds? It looks like they might be sealed, sometimes you can get the tiniest little pin hole in these and they can leak. If using a high frequency trigger start tig they usually have a ramp down function to gradually lower the amps as you finish the weld back to the surface to cool it slower and avoid pin holes. Or if you only have a low frequency, scratch start machine you finish the weld by dragging the arc off to the side quickly which doesn't look as nice but it does stop pin holes. Being the thorough kind of guy you are, I'm sure you you'll give it all a leak test before installing. Not trying to be a nit picking smart arse either mate.

Looking awesome Ando, better beef up that old Corty you might twist it in half.

Just leave it, that is pretty much perfect for boost. As long as you're running an intercooler, using decent fuel and it's tuned correctly

The FG still uses a GT35 frame turbo, they just have a slightly smaller compressor wheel. BA-F use GT3582R, FG use GT3576R. The smaller compressor wheel probably partly explains why the FG Turbo models have better low down torque.

Gt3582r is A gt3582r has a gt35 turbine wheel which has no reference to actual size as far as I know, just a model name but the 82 refers to the exducer ( largest diameter) of the compressor wheel which is 82mm ( inducer around 61mm), the Garrett gt3576 on the FG xr6t has the same turbine wheel with a smaller exducer of 76mm. The Garrett GT4202 uses a GT42 turbine wheel with a compressor wheel exducer of 102mm, so you can kind of understand the frame sizes that Garrett uses. As far as turbo sizing goes, why not copy Ford ? : A GT3582R with a 1.06 ar turbine housing, capable d delivering 400rwkw with minimal lag on a 4L. Generally turbo manufacturers supply turbos with well matched turbine and compressor wheel with a recommended engine size range to work with. Volumetric and other efficiencies come into play when selecting a turbo. But generally, go for a turbo with a compressor map within the desired pressure ratio.

Can't you just get one from the states for a 5.0 Mustang? There are aftermarket 80mm ones available. You would have to remap it with a J3 chip etc of course

US octane ratings are different because they use AKI for fuel rating and we use RON. Their 93 octane is the equivalent of our 98

Edcon are just small steel suppliers in NSW. Blackwoods also sell them at much the same price and have 45 deg bends readily available too. There's a Blackwoods in Bell park which is close to Geelong

Dropped into Edcon this arvo 1.5"NB sched 40, 90 degree buttweld mild steel bends $2.40 ea. including GST, 2.5" were around $4.50

You're talking mild steel steam pipe bends right? When I got my 1 1/4" sched 40 bends a few months back they were about that much from Edcon steel who aren't the cheapest around, 1.5" would be dearer but not by much. I'm going there tomorrow to grab a couple of things, I'll see exactly how much they are, I can guarantee it won't be $10 or $12 each.