CHESTNUTXE

i no the factory 351 tailshafts were a fair bit fatter than the 6 and 302c ones,i hope my alloy one can be converted to the fmx yoke ?

ok that one looks like the shorter yoke,thanks m8.

yeah i checked before i bought the headers,it says will fit fmx and c6,there is a couple of different length yokes ,some short ,some longer,im running a alloy EB V8 tailshaft at presant with the flange type rear,im wondering will this sucker be ok for a mild 351c or just get one made from scratch,some of those 31 spline yokes start at $150 bucks with a beefy one around $350,i bloke up the road has a couple and im just trying to get the correct one.

I fitted a new filter and cleaned the pan,all looks clean.

THE extractors turned up,1-3/4 primarys,not bad for the money,with gaskets too.

I dont no how many were made in the first batch,but i have never seen one ,maybe someone has a picture,i have read somewhere that front running group c cars were using them in the late 70's.

can someone tell me the correct length yoke to go on the tailshaft,i no its a 31 spline but there seems to be a few different ones,like does someone have an old 351 tailshaft out of an LTD or fairlane lying around ? thanks.

Here is a genuine nascar xe number block and it has no pillow's ,maybe its an early one from the first 1975 cast ones ?

Here is a july 74 D2AE-CA BLOCK

This one might be a bit hard to read but cast cleveland foundry cf.

The diff doctor says probly what gerg said a misalighnment of gears but he wont no until he takes it apart,so im gunna get them to set it up ,then its fixed for good.

yes its the same diff i have rebuilt 3 times now and im over it ! i did what i was told i did the pinion nut up untill there was no movement then give it a little bit more to nip it up,i got it to 120ft/lbs on the tourque wrench,cant i just back it off a bit ? plus i painted the mustad color paint on the gears and checked the meshing before i sealed it all up it looked good,1/3 off the way from the bottom and in the centre so i put it all together and she is as smooth as when going forward,just wwhhhhhhhhooooooooooo when off the accelerator.

The guy at the diff shop gave me a 030 shim to put in next to the old crush tube and i tightend it all up

too much or less dave ?

i have a kickdown lever as well to fit,i imagine it goes to the bottom lever

ok its much better,smooth and quiet,many lessons were learnt doing it 3 times,just a tiny noise when you take the foot off the gas but on accleration and normal driving so quiet,so i guess the coast nedds to bed in a bit from the 030 shim ? but overall im stoked.

looks much better now !

yeah im just about to fit em to the car after i put the axles back in after the diff rebuild,cheer's.

ALL OF THEM WERE DRILLED FOR 4 BOLTS BUT ONLY USED 2BOLT MAINS FROM FACTORY.

Ok i got the new races in,new pinion bearings,did the preload with the shim,got about 120ft-lbs on the flange bolt,seems all to turn nice and no play,painted the gear mesh paint to check and it seemed to be spot on with the shims that came out,tomorrow will put the axles back in and fill with oil and have new discs and pads,also put the re-co gold snowflakes on and test drive.

YEAH that red oxide paint was on all of them i have read somewhere.

15x6

now just a quick clean and fit to the car tomorrow

i picked up the rims ,they look awsome.

Old mate at the diff shop says there was nothing wrong with the pinion bearings (DOH),anyway im getting new ones and races,also he seems amused how i am going to put 240ft/lbs on the flange bolt while the car is on stands(DOH),to crush the new 030 shim ,he says just re use the crushsleve and put the shim in,he seems to think all this noise is from incorrectly gear mesh.so im just waiting until i get the call to come and pick up the new bearings and shim.