CHESTNUTXE

The manifold turned out to be the rare 2 barrel one that is cone shaped ,pretty sure this one came on the 1974-75 351 cleveland,ford was looking for some better fuel consumption.

I have only ever seen 1 xc fairmont coupe 5.8 auto 1978 model with a black engine,i dont no if it was reco or factory but it looked very factory.

I have had so many of these clevo's over 25 year's i no xc had a blue block up until the xc update model of 77 then they went black but maybe some historian can chime in with the correct colour date.

i also noticed that the block was about zero deck ,and the heads have probly been surfaced as well,with 040 bore its about 9.8.1 comp as these 302's were 9.2.1.standard,the pistons in my pillowblock sit about 040 under the deck ,if i whack these 302 heads on there it jumps to about 10.6.1.comp,in the 1980's and 1990's it was all the rage to put 2v closed chamber heads on a 351c and whack a set of 4v valves in there as well,but these days most are going for alloy heads and the 2v valve size,with the better 3v chi and others you will find bigger and better valves,but 2.05 intakes have proven to be very good for the street plus you dont have to lip the block .

m8 its just a stocker,i wont be doing anything with this engine except rebuilding it as a stocker,apart from the bent pushrod and lifter the rest should come up well with a solid cleaning of all parts,i will get the heads checked out as well.The block did not have the lip for the 4v intakes.

dont no what lift but i would say its a stocker,i have 3 here to choose from i will get it inspected during the week,other lifters look really nice like good ware pattern.

i found another small metal plate next to the dip stick tube under all that muck it is a small stamped number from a melbourne re-co joint,i took 1 of the pistons out to check what had been done and its actualy 040 over and 020 on the rod bearings,the cam was in pretty good cond,but 1 lifter was broken cause of that bent pushrod.

closed chamber heads approx 58cc

Thar she blows captain shes an 040 and aftermarket pistons

When you think you have seen it all i came across a balancer spacer i have never seen b4,single row pulley set up.

yeah i figured something like that ,thanks thom,after 2 hours of stripping down i think i have the culprits 1 check the pushrod and 2 a clip from a lfter,bbaaahhhhhha.

i have done another build on it in the clevo section.

i couldnt help myself i bought another clevo today to build ,not sure to keep as a 302 or maybe a 393 stroker kit,will inspect the block first.

Just did some looking on the carb and she is a rare little item the 4643-3 is a replacement for 1965-1967 289,302,351,429 fords model 2300 at 375 cfm well thats what it said in an american mustang website,its quite an ugly carb but will see if it is worth re-co.

That's all for today,she is on the stand and ready for more strip down tomorrow,just out of interest i checked the engine number and she is a JG37 so it was a 2barrel fairlane engine,but im not sure if the sump is sedan or f100 so will find out,also the list number on the holley is 4643-3 i will look up later but i would say its a 350 cfm with auto choke .I can also see this engine has been band aided b4 by the amount of blue sealant everywhere ,even at the back of the block and just about all over the place ,im keen to see if it has the lip in the block for the 4v valves as most early clevelands had this from the american tooling on early 70's square blocks ,changeover was circa 74 -75 ? ,we will see if she has been bored and take a look at the small closed chamber heads.

ok now they are off ,clean the threads on the block x6 run a tap threw them with wd40 or similar lube and clean em right out.

2 more things to consider is undoing the balancer bolt and flywheel bolts b4 going on the stand cause its dam hard to undo them if you dont stop the motor from spinning,so wrap a bit of wire or rope or some type of tool to stop it spinning then undo both of them.

Before we put the clevo on the stand,we need to take the flywheel and clutch off ,just makes it easyer to bolt up.

extra valve ! and check that other thing on the head ?

its ok no ed diff was ever 2.92 EA was last of 2,92 cheers mate.

Does anybody have a good set of 2.92 gears to suit my EB diff ,i have a good set of 3.27 if you want to trade or cash.I ALSO NEED A 2.92 DIFF TAG.

The big sucker on the right is no longer available,but the one in the middle is,list retail price is $350 but get your local auto electrical place to get it wholesale and it will be much cheaper.

i just found a place that does them ,2 different styles,std clutch and flywheel clutch,on page 24 of the PDF.

i have looked at shimming the compressor bracket that's the easy part, but if you do that the other tensioner's will be to close to the waterpump pulley,once they are also brought forward to line up,please does someone have a v8 pulley.

nope the crossflow pulley misses out by about 6mm