revhead

4cylinder ,cheap ,not a shitty ohc 2.0 litre ,for my money swing a 5 into it and be done with it, the 2,litre oil burning motor might save you money on fuel and rego ,but youl be forever spending on oil and head gaskets

mate I have two tanks here both with years left on them yours for free .im near coffs harbour nsw

back in the olden days we used a 351 crank ,302 rods short skirt racing pistons ,stage 3 competition cam an 2v heads ,we used to call it a 383 stroker ,in the olden days ,loads of funn.lol

the pistons have the gudgen moved a little closer to the oil ring ,and the skirts are a lot shorter then nomal clevo pistons

2litre corty engine hey i reakon castlemaine rod shop will prob have bellhousing for this application !

should be the same from xb on as ive put xf fly wheels on e series motors and vis versa

more beer stat!!! lol\

the el tank has a small captive tank that the pump sits in inside the tank ,to stop fuel starvation ,the only way a efi car will starve through corners or race tracks is if u run less then 10 litres in the tank

250 cu  behind water pump on drivers side of motor, 200cu on little flat area above drivers side engine mount

the way I understand it is ,you need to work out cam then final drive

1 cam profile ,when it comes onto cam.

2 diff ratio,

so if you drive around with a 3000 rpm stally ,cam comes on hard at 2800 then this is good ,

but if your in top on the highway and you cruise at 100k ,and the motor is showing say 2500 in top then you will fry the stally as it is contantly allowing slip,

so if you run say a 40/80 cam with 3.5 gears then 100k n hour should be around 3200rpm, no problems,

the el is el the au is au ,the pumps as I remember it are around 80psi ,there is no hipo v8 pump, as the fuel lines remain primed constantly with fuel and with a return flow to the tank ,the AU v8 is a better motor imo, the el ran the worn out EB roller unit, people rave and bullshit on about hipo, pumps from factory ,it is all bs! ford like all manufacturers are tight arses and wouldnt design a pump just for the 185kw model.i mean u take a pump from an el 6cyl and itl run the v8 fine!!! I also remember when I worked in ford spares micro cat listed the same pump for 6& 8, also fitting the au unit to your tank ,will make no sence as the fuel sender ISNT  compatible, so send the pump and sender back for a full refund and tell the seller he,s an idiot.. 

in my line of work ive done hundreds if not thousands of e series head gaskets etc ,ive found the 90 degree turn after initial, torque setting is the only way, also buy new head bolts ,don't be a tight arse as ive seen old ones shatter or snap clean off

ive done this easy as 4brrl manifold ,carb, low pressure fuel pump ,leave the dissy just wire the red with green tracer to ignition power

they x series were a pain as if you lost your keys it was bem module and ignition and computer

just replace the 4x ball joints ,as they will be full of road grit if the little boots have perished itl take an hour and itl drive like new and cost u 90 bucks for the parts

i thought about that as well ,but like u i went in another direction,lol

sounds like a zb fairlane motor 289 is my bet

no hope ,big cav wins the teady bear!

I just drilled through the bell housing tapped the top 2x holes to suit the bolts I used, hit them with thread lock did them up ft from the inside with my rattle gun ,then nylocked the box to the bolts with more thread lock, as there is ample clearance inside the bell housing to clear the bolt heads,

when I used epoxy on bare surfaces ,ppg told use to clean the area with metho and scotch brite ,at to remove any oil, as prepsol is an oil based cleaner ,with the epoxy for spaying we did thin it a little more and also ran it through paint strainers as it contains the odd lumpy bit of shit ,and the most coats used or recommend was 2,only

also don't forge to put a light dusting of etch primer first to give the epoxy something to grip to,

not being a kunt here but if you own a sprint leave the fucker alone as these are a very sort after car and fucking it up will make it worthless ,imo

every model ford since the ea ran a diff plug for the ecu,s and efi set ups the only two to be alike are the ef el 5litre engine harness,s

antiher thing is the numbers on the ecu determine what bcm ecu ran and if they matched up to work

you will run into plug prblems with the ecu,leave it alone

wonder if there toes are webbed hehehe.

whats in the little tin box is 2 contact points and a strip of copper ,what happens is as the voltage makes the wiring hot it also affects the copper strip, making it heat up and pull the contacts ,or breakers apart causing this sudden off or flashing affect ,a new will prob make it for 6 months before it to goes poooo!

man I lay $10 bucks on the little tin gigger, I worked for ford for many years I must have replaced 100 of then ,also if you have fitted 100wat bulbs get rid of the little 30amp relays and fit 50wat plus