revhead

go to repco ,buy yourself some super low leaf springs from king springs ,yes they do leaf springs as well about $300 a set ,an chuck those blocks in the recycle bin

it really depends on lot of things,id say 290rwhp isnt impossible ,i mean the gtho,p3 that did the 1,4 run back in its day only had 300hp and cracked 14,1, you are going to run into detonation problems bc the old skool closed chamber heads cause it , with super led fuels we could get away with higher comps as we had led to lube the valves,or run av gas ,but the fuel today is shit as 98 hi octane burns slower ,and dumbs down the out put of the motor and it also causes a longer burn ratio for fuel to air 95 with octane booster is much better ,but the octane isnt in it LPG today is a mix of many diff gases and still doesnt give the octane it used to yurs ago , either way unless you have a plane ,to get av gas its gunna ping

i had a 351 built using 4mab crank 02 rods short skirt racing piston a stage 3 competition cam 460 valves in open chamber heads ,not throtted,it ran a 780 holley extractors ,t5 box 345lsd in an EA the most it did on the dyno ,was 290rwhp,and this thing went like shit off a shovel,lol 450 asking a little to much imo! YOU will find the compresson with close chamber heads is more like 13to 1, and itl ping like a bitch ,i have a mate with the same combo as you ,its fucked and pings everywhere this build combo is called a 383 stroker!

no , the EF el run a diff mounting and a diff disc ditch the dash hadbrake unit ,and fit everything ef el its not hard mod,

what wiring did u use as the 6cyl harness cant be used ,

um ive got an ef diff under my xe ,and the bushes in the diff are heaps wider then the xe,f arms ,so what i did was get ef bushes ,and repco lower arms and cut the rear bush of and had the engineering shop weld on wider steel round to take the ef,l bush,

pull the top scuttle panel off the dash to see if the main earth wire for the dash is in tact its on the drivers side and has a green coloured bolt init ,check this 1st

itryed my 38 mil hub spacers today with my 20,s tonns of room

remember to fit the oil and temp sender from the 6 to the 8 so the dash works propperly

yeahg i got 20x9S for my xe ,trying them on in a few weeks tell ya how i go

little metal box beside headlight relays ,its call a bio metallic strip ,fuck it off and fit and in fuseable link

Viagra bro! bwahahaha

simple the lower radiator suppot is wayyyy diff to the xe unit ,I should know I modded the shit out of my xe using xg shit all of you are correct right ,so no pissing comp required ,just get what you need from an xg by drilling out the spot welds ,and plug weld back into place ,just make sure you get good penetration and its straight and it be good to drive ,the fire wall and lower support are the diff nothing else enjoy ,get to drilling and welding

don't be a skirt if paints still good go n buy scotch brite ,and prepsol give it a good rub an paint straight over

thats why were all here to help each other Anytime!

auto electrician , ford dealer , wreckers, its just an unplug job ,easy to do

look for this next to you overflow bottle

the relays in front of your over flow bottle ,2x are for low beam 2x are for hi beam ,but it wont be them ,there is alittle tin with either 2x thick yellow wires going to it ,this is the hi beam biometalic strip, replace this and all will be well!

easy job ,do what everyone said ,just unplug the fuel pump in the tank ,so it doesnt work at all ,and fit a 4pound low pressure pump from repco into the engine bay ,just for your own info the efi dont wont have a fuel pump drive on the cam ,cheers have fun chuck up some pictures for us

il post up piccic of the mufflers im using next week on my xe , for me im running headers ,into 2.1/4, dual straight through no centre mufflers at all over the diff ,ive removed and ditched the petrol tank and am running my mufflers up the back under the rear of the car ,side by side drag car style with 4x outlets both mufflers stainless ,i want it deep not to loud ,to keep the cops off my back

the hose you talk have has metal in it like a tyre ,it should be ok for re-cert ,it really depends on what the inspector feels needs to be done ,but generally if the tank is in date and it has a gas lock in the rear compartment on the tank and one in the engine bay ,and the feul line isnt damaged in anyway you should be ok

you havent got a constant 12volt power supply going to your coil so when the key is let go as you stated it dies,generally this could be the switching unit in the back of the ignition, chim in guys ,

no imo you are wasting your time pick one ,not meaning to be rude but it is proven tune for one is better then trying to tune for both,my efi windsor will be built for straight gas ,as petrol is rubbish these days, with LPG you get 100% burn ,you can squeeze, more gas into a standard port then you can with petrol, and you wont be whinging in 6 months how the gas has fucked your injectors , i always get people bringing their dual fuel cars into my workshop,crying why ITwill not run good on fuel ,etc bc the injectors are rooted ,idle speed motors rooted ,etc but the guys who drive in ,with straight gas falcons, bombadores only come in once a year for a general service , plugs air filter oil, never any mystery probs, straight petrol cars ,generally no probs ! gas cars spark go ! efi petrol and gas headache !

best thing is ditch one ,id get ridd of the petrol imo and run straight gas ,get it tuned for gas ,dont run both get the petrol injectors out and get gas injectors fitted ,itl sc=ream

its the ends of the axles are diff ,pull the axles out of the xdub diff and compare the e series diff maybe a little machine work ,i do know the axle tubes a totally diff ,but im sure with a little time a lot of beer ,hhmm thought you can get it to work