revhead

whats in the little tin box is 2 contact points and a strip of copper ,what happens is as the voltage makes the wiring hot it also affects the copper strip, making it heat up and pull the contacts ,or breakers apart causing this sudden off or flashing affect ,a new will prob make it for 6 months before it to goes poooo!

man I lay $10 bucks on the little tin gigger, I worked for ford for many years I must have replaced 100 of then ,also if you have fitted 100wat bulbs get rid of the little 30amp relays and fit 50wat plus

don't be a roff cunt ,rattle can ,shit do it once right rub the ally back with scotch bright an metho ,don't drink in ,after u do this clean it each it ,then paint it in 2 pak black an 2 coats of clear

simple cut rust out, don't bog over it as this makes it come back much worse grind and clean the area around the rust and treat an y remaining spider rust or rust spots with a good rust convertor do you welding only spot welding ,as to much heat wil fuck the whole panel trust me I do this for a living grind or linch to a smooth finish ,then follow James advice ,cheers n enjoy

go to it lad ,I bet ya the bolts on the front bar to guard snap off! lol as they rust like shit,

remove headlights and blinkers as there is 3 bolts each side joining front guard to bumper each side there are two bolts at the bottom of each guard ,and the rest across the top easy enough to be seen also remove both front windscreen moulds youl find one bolt on each side of the screen ,there all 10 mil

don't forget broken top rings will do the same thing ,

its a y block 232 cube ,piss weak mains etc don't breath etc ,no good get a Windsor or clevo,

i actually fitted an xf rear bar to my old xb coupe ,never had probb s

it can be done if done right its easy to get engineered , all you do is remove the seat runners ,make a carboard templete of the seat base holes ,to mark the rear floor out with ,remember on the right rear side you have the exhuast heat sheild to work around, ,,,on xf front seats they have black nylon spacers you put one under the front two bolt on each front seats to give leg support what youl need it 4x 50x50 10 mil thick plates case hardened or black bolts ,to bolt seat down with ,per seat ,take your tie dont rush and itl look awesome

man if your happy go for it ,I say good job ,rip them tyres lol

also the pink with blue tracer is your tacho,feed,lol.enjoy the spaghetti,

if your using the hei dissy ,the red is to pos , the black is neg coil,on the engine bay harness the red w green tracer is pos coil as well ,but if u use a point dissy u must fit a ballast resister, as itl melt the points ,tis goes on the positive side of the coil to lower the 12v feed to the coil and the dissy feeds from the other end of the resistor

MAKE SURE IF YOU NOTCH THE OLD LOWER SUPPORT YOU plate it up and paint it ,so no bastard but you know

You'll have to put it up an climb under brother

just above the starter motor below the left head ,right at the back, there is two small flat areas this is where it is

in your case id by an eldolbrok performer, great for all applications ,much beeter then stock ,it shouldnt give you bonnet clearance problems ,a little pricey but worth the $

thats why i posted and said the e series strackors fit bc not everyone has a massive budget,

another thing to is the stock factory extractors fitt as well,no need to buy others

mate im fitting an efi 02 widsor into my xe its a bolt in fit give the e series engine mounts the flick the older x series mounts bolt straight on and fit x series v8 engine mount plates ,piece of piss ,also if you going auto you can do as i did an take the factory floor munts off the bodu and move them back 7 inches as the auto pan hits in them in the original placve ,plus you wont need to make a bullshit xmember ,just do it nice and neat and rego wont be the wiser....

i got a complete unit from n xg with key $40 u pay post

dremel ,diegrinder etc big grinder no good

best repair is to cut and remove affected area ,but this will take heaps of time,.welding the rust holes shut is hopeless as the rust will be back quicker then a dose of herpes, get a dremel or die grinder in there and dig it all out ,then cut shape an make small plates the stitch them in there ,then once done etch primer then a couple of hefty coats of tar based sealer thet sets rock hard to keep the water out, on the inner side of both panels give it a massive spray with xtrol then s rubberised black tar or mastic the seal is from further damage by water ,then last but least slap a shit load of fish oil everywhere

ute springs sag ,hey NZ go to your local pedder bro.haVE you got pedders ,you might have better then pedders.

i got two here but you live on the moon ,lol postage would be a killer.lol