revhead

mine is f3 ffs cant find it anywhere ,yours is palimino light tan in colour

14 inch tyres ,,,,235= 7,,,,245 =8" ,,265=10",,, 275=11",,,295=12",,,305= 13"

no itl come down to a narrow diff, as tens wont fit under stock rear guards

take the 2nd bottom leaf spring and flip it over ,simple cheap and easy ,no blocks

only thing that bothers me about your port work is the meat around you valve steams is getting thin, ive seen many a busted guide from removing to much material around that area ,the port match ,and a good debur and a polish works wonders, the ideal port will spin swirl the air and fuel as its sucked into the cylinder,making a perfect mix of the two,

my mate bought n xh ute ,to get these plates YGT-071 thing is 1st two years storage $130 a year ,i took him into pay for his 3rd year of storage, they olny charged him $55 and said if he decides to use them in the next 12 months he gets his 55 bucks back,lol

im with you gerg on the oil pump ,as a clevo starves the bottom end on start up, id get the lifter holes machined and sleeved to slow the oil leaving the bottom end nice port matching

n.s.w doesnt get much better, my bike plate cost me $109 to order then $40 to have the right to display, then $180 on top of my rego every year after the 1st, its a joke, i still have the plate as a wall decoration now, they have sent me letters to surrender the plate i told them the insurence company took bike with plate attached lol myPlates a link to browes n.s.w plates ,

its n easy conversion, just ditch the efi manifold n fit a 4 brrl manifold n hot wire the dizzy and itl be in an running before you know it, no wiring loom nothing using the xw stock wiring if you need more info please ask. ive got a wiring short cut here for the dizzy, etc you can use old x series v8 engine mounts as the still bolt to the new windsor ,

xa coupes where i agree a little fugly ,but the stock 6 pack falcon sedan was horrible bwahahahahha fixed it for you!

AU all series ,yuk, imo yuk yuk an yuk, hope they shot the designer!. best every ford ever made ,except afore mentioned! favorite the coupe any series

generally when i rub through i mix up a wet mix of primer filler and just give it a light coat just before i paint the colour also when rubbing with any block remember to stay away from folds or body lines and edges, only use the block on flat areas

also when you pull the head off ,you dont have to take the intake manifold completely off just undo the bolts holding it to the head and leave it sitting roght were it is as it has brackets supporting it ,same with the exhaust manifold undo all the bolts and simply lift the head straight up and out between both manifolds, also make sure you put sealant on the bolts that hold the power steering pump bracket to the front of the head as this will cause you oil leaks after ass, dont forget to undo the chain guide bolt on the very front of the head ,and yes have the motor on top dead centre .also leave the cam on the head as well,use cable tires to hold the timing chain onto the cam gear and undo the bolt holding this on an simply sit it to the side ,cheers , if you need and more info or hints please ask,

a head gasket on an xg, xh e series donk easy as ,ive done hundreds , just make sure you get it surface ground and tanked to clean it all up an check it for cracks ,most of these alloy heads rott around the rear water galleriers ,but as youve stated its got milk ,il bett its blown into the timing chain gallery at the front an between 1 and 2 cylinders ,most good engine builders will charge you $60 bucks to tank it and $60 for a surface grind, the head gasket set will cost between $90 to $110, stay away from super cheap and repco brand sets as there shitty ,i go for monotorque or similar and remember to got the 30nm and the 90% turn, and yes replace the head studs,

as the title say,. problem i have is my interior, from the xd i scored is pretty stuff! ,so i was wondering who on here has done the front and rear seat convo ,and if so have you any pictures of the swap ,as i can get black front and rear bf ltd seats for $200 from my local wreckers ,an would rather spend the money there ,instead of $1600 at my local upholsterer

you need to change the whole rear valance panel. an itl take more then a little trim with tin snipes to make it happen,

if you are moving your battery ,another thing you must do is run an good sized wire from the back of your altenator to directly to your starter motor this aids in stopping voltage drop, and gives motor maxium amps on start up, i have seen cars without this and the wiring gets a little warm.also dont forget the starter relay, itl need to keep a good supply of power to that or you could run into problems

the change over is a simple one ,if you have all the parts ,it is a basic upgrade ,if u have already fitted the wiring harness then its a case of plug n play, just make sure u use everything from the series two and swap it across,

sounds like an xy ute tank, just ditch it n get one from an xg van ute n fit that, itl still pull petrol through the intake pump with it working

no ,i was hoping the picture might help

you can fit a second hand one ,but it must be the same colour and every number on the new bcm must match the old one ,, good luck

why not put the compressor up on the left side where it belongs another problem you cant cut a little off as the motor lifts from the left to the right ,and youl find the compressor smashing into the sway bar mount all the time ,

wrong bolts bloke ,there one each side of the catch ,loosen those the lower the latch down ,those ro in the picture hold the bonnet catch in a cradle ,dont play with those

arhh lol Revhead