revhead

if you pull it forward look at the back to see if its leaking fluid,other wise no its the booster

3x bolts under dash 9/16 clip on brake pedal, 2x 9/16 bolts from master to booster that is all for the love of ford dont undo your brake lines ,not needed just pull it out of the way

well id say the diaphragm in the booster is shot ,have you got another booster kicking around ,pretty easy job ,just undo master cylinder pull it forward un bolt booster ,should take 30 mins tops

generally id say change the nrv if it doesnt stop the prob change the booster when depressing brake pedal listen to the booster for hissing noises etc

just make sure you use a long bolt through the locating hole,bc if the g clamp lets go hospital isnt n option,

1 tonn springs

no your ute isnt a 1 tonner ,they generally run 6 /7 springs on the rear ,just flip the 2nd shortest youl be right

blocks are dangerous flipping a leaf wont hurt ,its quiet easy,take the 2nd smallest spring out and flipp it over so that it is oppposed to the other springs ,fit a long retaining bolt through the centre eyelet hole the get a big Gclamp and pull the springs together ,then replace the eyelet bolt with the original locating bolt ,this process will drop your ute van 4.5 inches if you use the 3rd spring itl dropp it to bump stops

nice job,bloke love the XA

they run the same hot cold cable and have a similar wiring plug to xf

el heater box is a direct bolt in all pipes come out the same outlets all bolts line up to firewall, easy as , no modds to get it in when i stipped donor el i took the sound deadner sheet off the fire wall and put it in my x and bingo it all matched so i mock fitted the heater box straight in ,salso the manual pedal box bolts straight in as well from the el

shit use an el box if thats the case straight bolt in.

we revheads gotta stick together

yup $99 ,i didnt get lite headed ,the chick at the post office said you still want to post ,i said hell yeah ,i mean it weighed 16.5kilos ,lol

clean inner guard you got there ,ok get in right hand front floor lay on back have torch in hand and look straight up take your time dont rush.

postage was 99.bucks

what i meant to say was zl heat box is a lot older then the el ,and chances of getting a zl box to still have a usable condenser for the air is very unlikely,you could fit a el condenser into the zl heater box but not having the step in the fire wall will make it hard ,ive got a heater air box from an xe that was working ,yours for free if you want it ,

you do relise the xe firewall if diff to xf this was done to alter the heater box to make it more efficient for heating and cooling ,chuck the zl box away and use an el heater box thats what ive done but i modded my firewall

if its behind the kick panel o the driver side ,it IS rusted WERE THE RIGHT HAND inner guard meets the plenuim, you need to pull the guard off to weld it up

thats the ticket right there^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

there is an area,just above the clutch pedal area were every x falcon rusts out ,in the plenuim there is only one way for the water to escape and it drains out the drivers side ,check to see its not blocked there causing it to overflow at the other side

easy as ,take off the front wheels if your hoist doesnt go that high and let the car down on stands ,theres a whole world of pain spliting it ,get it up on stands ramps ,then the bellhousing is useally to tall to pull out under the xmember so you need to jack the car up ,then you drag the box out then need to remove the stands ramps 2 starter motor bolts 4x cross member bolts, inspection cover bolts x4, ,,4 or 6 bellhousing bolts ,to much ,do it on the floor later lol while having a beer or bourbon,or 3

just remember to remove the gear stick and fit a dumby shaft to the rear of t5 ,also unhook hand brake cable as itl snag the rear of the box,yes i know a lot of you dont do this but i do bc as i stated,plus it help when you go for the 75 degree lift angle

get yourself a leak down tester ,and pump the system up to see if it hold pressure,if it does its all good ,but if it slowly leaks down you will be able to find the leak if its external

if the rise and fall of the temp gauge,are minimal it could be the thermostat opening/closing etc you could have a blown head gasket,it could be gone between cylinders or blowing compression,into the water galleries,this will cause silly temp problems not milky oil