Drew442

It will depend on the drive gear you have. Which you probably don't need to change. Count the teeth on the one you have, work out the difference in percent the new ratio is compared to the old, get a driven gear with that many fewer/more teeth. It won't be in any of the falcon color charts because falcon's didn't ever have that ratio. You can't look at other charts because you don't know what drive gear is in the other cars... Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

I'd recommend keeping idle control if it has AC or is an auto. If it's manual and no AC you can get away without it. Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

Yeah. I have a 94da and a 96da block here. We pulled the 94da down last weekend and the head mating surface doesn't look that good. We'll pull down the 96da on the weekend and see what it looks like. I'm just using ACL duraglide bearings but i've got chrome rings. Everything else stock EF.

I'd probably only do it if you have the ability to do it yourself or have a mate who can do it. If you have to send it out then the expense probably isn't worth it. Multi pass is definitely more efficient. Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

Ohc. Ef bottom end, vct top. Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

I've got nason head bolts and timing set here for my turbo build. I'll let you know how they go. Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

Someone wrote it in response to Matt from sloppy mechanics reusing torque to yield head bolts on his LS motors. I think the reused were better than new items both oem and aftermarket. Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

That's why every car built today has VCT. Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

I'm in the middle of building an au vct motor. They adjust 6 degrees from memory. It'll have a BW 66mm turbo. I'll let you guys know how that goes. Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

What do you know about the cam other than its name? Do you have specs on it? Do you have a vernier timing gear on it? Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

What turbo are you running? You don't need a 'turbo cam' with a modern turbo and it's sized right. The turbo cam will help you if exhaust back pressure is excessive, otherwise cam requirements will be pretty much the same as NA.

A bit far from me in Newcastle. For your reference: http://www.cardiagnostics.be/-now/Educational_sites_bestanden/BOSCH%2520L-Jetronic%2520Injection%2520Manual.pdf Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

imgur.com Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

Cool. Looks like you're all over it. I've never seen someone intentionally retrofit the jetronic efi. I'm interested in seeing your outcome. Where are you located? I'd like to see it when you're done. Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

Sounds like XE. If you post a photo of it I can be sure. Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

What ECU do you have? You'll need to run the dizzy to match the ECU. If it's a Ford ECU from an XF our later you'll need to run the XF type TFI distributor (grey module) If it's the bosch ECU from an XE you'll need the dizzy with the bosch module. The one the other guys have been referring to as solid state. You can probably run points with the bosch ECU but it'll have to be 12 volts. If you have an aftermarket ECU then you need have a look at the manual for that. Most support TFI. But for the bosch dizzy, the black module may need to be removed from under the metal case to get spark control. Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

Check you haven't got a bad cap that you could have made worse by changing the leads. Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

Light brown? Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

Can I troll? Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

I agree. I don't think you'll have any trouble sorting this out if it's a problem on their side. Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

Yes, do this. Scotch brite or sand paper. Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

There's no need to modify the isc valve. You can program the desired rpm in the chip. You only need to do something with the neutral safety switch in the loom when you swap to manual with an auto ecu. Vss is the same. I'll fix that typo in my last post too. Did you get one of the chips shipped out last Sunday? I noticed on Instagram Jason say he had quite a few to do, maybe he made a mistake? Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

Pump keeps priming means the flash is bad. Either for the wrong box or just corrupt. Who flashed it? Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

Step one is always put the scanner on and check for codes. The idle/start fuel circuit is essentially a slow leak from the mixer too. Check your vapor lines for leaks using your nose. Energise the lock off for a few seconds with a jumper wire to make it flow. Make sure the plugs are good. Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

I use the innovate LC-1. This is the one that the internet hates but I've had no issues with it. I've installed it pre-cat always. If you do install it pre-cat in the factory location and use the narrow band emulated output it doesn't work well with EEC. Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk