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Drew442

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Posts posted by Drew442

  1. Posted

    It will depend on the drive gear you have. Which you probably don't need to change.

    Count the teeth on the one you have, work out the difference in percent the new ratio is compared to the old, get a driven gear with that many fewer/more teeth.

    It won't be in any of the falcon color charts because falcon's didn't ever have that ratio. You can't look at other charts because you don't know what drive gear is in the other cars...

    Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

  3. Posted

    10 hours ago, Bigflop said:

    You rebuilding the bottom end?

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
     

    Yeah. I have a 94da and a 96da block here. We pulled the 94da down last weekend and the head mating surface doesn't look that good.

    qGmSUW7.jpg

     We'll pull down the 96da on the weekend and see what it looks like.

    I'm just using ACL duraglide bearings but i've got chrome rings. Everything else stock EF. 

     

    Bigflop reacted to this

  4. Posted

    I'd probably only do it if you have the ability to do it yourself or have a mate who can do it. If you have to send it out then the expense probably isn't worth it.

    Multi pass is definitely more efficient.

    Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

  7. Posted

    Yeah, it's so hard to get decent quality parts these days - so much cheap rubbish out there.
    Whether they be tierod ends, ball joints, suspension bushes, gaskets, or head bolts...
    I'd definitely be interested to see the yield specs on the Mace bolts, and how they compare with stock, and ARP studs.

    I read an article where someone did a yield test comparison on a bunch of different LS1 headbolts/Studs etc.
    It was a very interesting read.


    Someone wrote it in response to Matt from sloppy mechanics reusing torque to yield head bolts on his LS motors.

    I think the reused were better than new items both oem and aftermarket.


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  14. Posted

    Cool. Looks like you're all over it.

    I've never seen someone intentionally retrofit the jetronic efi. I'm interested in seeing your outcome.

    Where are you located? I'd like to see it when you're done.

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  16. Posted

    What ECU do you have?

     

    You'll need to run the dizzy to match the ECU.

     

    If it's a Ford ECU from an XF our later you'll need to run the XF type TFI distributor (grey module)

     

    If it's the bosch ECU from an XE you'll need the dizzy with the bosch module. The one the other guys have been referring to as solid state.

     

    You can probably run points with the bosch ECU but it'll have to be 12 volts.

     

    If you have an aftermarket ECU then you need have a look at the manual for that. Most support TFI. But for the bosch dizzy, the black module may need to be removed from under the metal case to get spark control.

     

    Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

     

     

     

     

    77xcfalcon reacted to this

  20. Posted

    cheers guys.
    And TI performance have a great rep.
    This is just a minor issue hopefully on my part.
    Ive spoke to TI and they have been very good regarding the problem. I'll give it another good clean up and see how i go.
    Thanks for the help.
    kim


    I agree. I don't think you'll have any trouble sorting this out if it's a problem on their side.

    Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

  21. Posted

    I'd read the " extra tips" in the installation notes. They explicitly state that improperly cleaned ECU contacts are a cause of fuel pump priming issues. Make sure the contacts are clean because it's the first thing they will tell you to do when you make contact with them.
    I've used their product without issue. I made sure the ECU contacts were fastidiously prepared before I inserted the chip......give it a go and see how things run then... 


    Yes, do this. Scotch brite or sand paper.

    Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

  22. Posted

    There's no need to modify the isc valve. You can program the desired rpm in the chip.

    You only need to do something with the neutral safety switch in the loom when you swap to manual with an auto ecu. Vss is the same.

    I'll fix that typo in my last post too.

    Did you get one of the chips shipped out last Sunday? I noticed on Instagram Jason say he had quite a few to do, maybe he made a mistake?

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  24. Posted

    Step one is always put the scanner on and check for codes.

    The idle/start fuel circuit is essentially a slow leak from the mixer too. Check your vapor lines for leaks using your nose. Energise the lock off for a few seconds with a jumper wire to make it flow.

    Make sure the plugs are good.

    Sent from my MI 5 using Tapatalk

  25. Posted

    I use the innovate LC-1. This is the one that the internet hates but I've had no issues with it.

    I've installed it pre-cat always. If you do install it pre-cat in the factory location and use the narrow band emulated output it doesn't work well with EEC.


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