XTREME KARTS XF

Ok i pulled the relay out for the spotties on the bullbar and they lite up for a brief second then went out again, think its got too much current draw for the fuse to handle....

I took the paint off the rollbar and the sqaure tubing and it blew the fuse again, dodgy earth or too much current for the fuse?

Im thinking and earth mark, do the lights have good contact for an earth point?

Im guessing the roll bar has a few layers of paint and might not be making a good earth?

 

They have power but no earth?

Well i fucked around with it and its a shitty earth, i used a jumper lead and it was lite up dull then went out (blew the 10 amp inline fuse while trying to get an earth)

I'll break out the grinder and take some paint off the rollbar and the sqaure tubing

Steves prolly on the money. Best thing to do is grab a multimeter and check earth continuity on the earth lead an check if you have 12 volts on the lead. 

 

Did you wire them up from scratch?

 

Have they been wired correctly?

Yes, they are wired up the same way as the ones on the bullbar

Don.t mean to put a damper on your progress Mark. But check the height of them spotties from the ground up cause I am pretty sure if they are above 1200mm from the ground they are illegal in Victoria. Cops love putting defect notices on BNS utes

Cheers mate! I have a couple of mates that have spotties on the rollbar and they never had an issue with the rozzers.

Fella's im in need of some help here,

I mounted up spot lights on the rollbar i bought for my BnS basher and theres no power getting to the lights, theres power to the relay and it clicks, i've tried 2 other relays as well.

I tested the lights before and they work.

Any ideas why theres no power to the spot lights?

Well the problem was traced to a broken wire in the loom that leads down to the gearbox, starts on the key now But i'll still add a 4 pin relay like Dean said to do.

Fill valve by the sounds of it. Tank issue means that the tank has to come out.

14mm nut that holds the hazard light switch and a 17mm nut that holds the choke cable to the dash and an 8mm nut that holds the control knob onto the cable. Pop the cap off the control knob and unscrew the 8mm nut, then use a 17mm deep socket to undo the nut, the cable slides out the back of the dash. To take the control knob off the hazard light switch theres a little white tab you push donw on with a flat blade screw driver and it slides off the switch then get a 14mm deep socket for the nut that holds the switch to the facia panel.

Or you can do what i did when i pulled the AM radio out to replace the aerial for the RWC checkout. You can hunt for the 4 pin plug without taking the facia panel out.

Theres a screw behind that blank off plate to the dash, pop it out and take the phillips screw out, pull the choke out and you'll have whats pictured below, my XD is a ute so it has the ash tray in the dash instead of the short stumpy console thing.

The original AM Radio that was in my XD, ditched it as it didnt work.

Heres the clock, its going into my XD ute

The 4 pin plug should be there in the dash loom, if so its just 'plug 'n' play' as they say!

I bought the aerpro headunit kit off ebay a while back, mounting bracket and din plate for an aftermarket headunit, Sony, JVC, Kenwood, Alpine, Pioneer etc

the aftermarket ones i have seen, (and had) were straight and fit well, much lighter. but BEND very easy.

don't stand or sit in the middle of them.

 

So thats why the tailgate bent when i was at Finley BnS, someones XF ball ute had one of those re-pop tailgates and it bent lol.

Pretty straight forward to do, you'll need a pump, belt, pump mount backet and bolts, spacers for the pump, pulley to bolt onto the harmonic balancer along with the bolts (XC-XE are 3 bolt while XF is 4 bolt) P/S box, lines and a hammer for the column to be given some love as the column shaft lengths are different between manual and P/S. The column will need to be tapped up about 1 inch, be sure to do it in small increments. Also the pitman arms are different between manual and P/S.

If your really good you can do it in a day.

Im pretty sure that i have a pump mount bracket and mount bolts in the shed somewhere, i'll have to check first.

has it got a relay like the XF? if not, add one.

Yes its got one, using the 6 cylinder starter motor

50 or 60mm if i can recall, someone correct me if im wrong.

Well i replaced the neutrel safety switch and it wont start in Neutrel or Park, wtf is going on? The reverse lights work when its in reverse and the column selector is right hard to move when i do up the bolts for the safety switch.

It kicks over when you jump it from the starter.....

Look down the throat, give the throttle a flick, should see fuel coming out of the squirters.

Nothing at all mate, i'll have to buy a couple of pump seals.

Could be your accelerator pump plunger. Gives it a quick squirt from idle. If she's a stocker, try retarding back to 6 degrees.

Trust the vac gauge, rather than the balancer marks. Throttle return spring is wrapped around the shaft, inside the carby, so kinda hard to adjust.

Got any vacuum leaks? Can get a manual choke fitted, if ya like.

I think your right about the plunger, was told that the carby was a good one and it caome off a running engine. try opening the throttle and it doesnt sound right, it sounds like a forklift LOL. I cant hear any fuel being squirted down the carby.

Mark I thought your ute had AC when you got it but you removed it?

It did, with or without A/C, late models like mine had the plastic fan.

Hey fella's

I need help with getting my 302c to run and idle properly with the Thermoquad carby. Now its a cunt to start when hot and theres no choke so by pouring fuel down the mouth it fires up when its hot.

It wont idle properly in drive and it stalls then its a cunt to fire up again and it idle's high when its in park and neutrel, i dont have a tacho hooked up ether.

I have a vacuum gauge and when its in park/neutrel the needle points towards late ignition timing, its set at 8 degrees.

I really dont wont to go through with the bullshit with the 600 Holley, it runs fine with the Holley but it needs kitting and i want fuel economey, my 302c isnt a mild performance or a race motor.

Can anyone help me out? Like where should i start from etc?

You'll need the Torx T20 screwdriver tip, im unsure on the thread for the screws themselves though.

It has been done before, my mate John (vannin) has an XF van with a 383 Cleveland with a C4 and its column auto. Deankdx had a Lexus powered XF ute that was column auto, somehow made it work with some mods.

What engine do you have? 6 cylinder of a V8? Column auto wont work with extractors with a V8

In your XF is fitted with a Cleveland you'll need the XA-XE V8 C4 linkage and bellcrank as the FMX ones are different.

If its a 6 cylinder you'll need the XA-XD 200 6 cylinder bellcrank (linkage that connects the column to the bellcrank might be the same, im not 100% sure) XD's that were a 200/3.3 xflow had the C4 while the 250/4.1 had the BW35 (Borgwarner 35)

This bracket is for BW35, works fine for me. This bracket the same to pre 86 XF's? You'll need the linkage to go from the column to the bellcrank.

Theres a bush that sits in the end of the column but i used a ribber gromet instead and it works, C4's and FMX have an elongated hole in the linkage for adjustment. You'll need the correct bolt too, 3 speed manual ones are the same as whats pictured.

Buy this bush kit off Ebay, its for the bellcrank as they age, crack, break apart and cause sloppy linkage issues.

Ebay link here -------> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-XR-XT-XW-XY-XA-XB-ZA-ZB-ZC-ZD-ZF-ZG-COLUMNSHIFT-AUTO-LINKAGE-BUSHES-/321464904540?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ad8cd2b5c

They get sloppy here so i used a couple of washers to try and take some out, it worked ok but i need to drill the hole out and make a bush to suit.

Pictures were sauced from my XD V8 ute project thread ------> http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/1926-marks-xd-v8-ute-project/

The only difference would be on XD where factory A/C had the clutch fan and non A/C had a fixed fan.

Non A/C water pump (NO CLUTCH FAN) had no fan thread and a different pulley bolt pattern compared to the A/C water pump (CLUTCH FAN).

All XE and XF had Clutch fans factory, all XEs and Non A/C XFs had a steel one and A/C XFs had a Plastic one, they all used the same clutch and water pump.

Some water pumps come with different impellers but this just depends on the brand of pump.

XD 6 cylinder's with A/C had the 7 blade "flexblade fan" while non A/C models used the 4 blade fan. The only XD models to be fitted with the clutch fan were V8 models. My XF ute is a 1992 model and it had the plastic fan instead of the steel, Ford must've run out of the steel ones and made the plastic ones as standed fitment.

If you ever have the dissy out, suss out the advance bob weights.

 

Cals XD wagon wasn't starting reliably when hot, so I helped to rebuild the dissy - replaced the pickup induction coil and greased everything else.

The advance weights were seized up rock solid as the original grease had solidified.

 

Seemed to start and run so much easier after the minor refurb.

How easy is it rebuild the distributor? Might pickup another one and give it a go myself

Well after about 100 km's of driving last night it seems to be good now

No i didnt think of that Dean, i'll concider it for next time. Theres a bloke on Ebay who makes the column linkage bushes.

How do you adjust it with a multimeter?

Well i've adjusted the safety switch acording to my gregerys repair manual using a no. 43 drill shank (0.89" or 2.26mm)

Thanks fellas!!

Im a noob when it comes to carbys on cars so im on a learning curve lol, more used to the ones on my 2 Go Karts.