XTREME KARTS XF

+1 on ASR, from what i've been told about them looks like i'll be getting 2 for my 2 engine builds

Bronze gear is for billet cams, steel gear for cast iron cams and for your case too

Hey fella's I just bought a set of headers for my XD and was woundering how hard are they to fit. Does the engine needed to lifted up to fit them or can it be done without using an engine crane? Mine are just the off the shelf Tri Y's, not 4 into 1's. Any help and ideas/advice will be greatly appreciated

Do apoligise for the late reply!! Paull, your setup looks neat, i like it. So it'll be at least a day job to fit an aftermarket shifter? I still plan on going with the Megashifter and keeping it a 3 seater so i have to ether get the bench seat modified or go back to bucket seats with a dicky seat in the middle.

Hey fella's At some stage down the track i want to fit a B&M Megashifter into my XD ute. How hard are they to fit/install?? For those who have a B&M or a similer shifter setup installed, throw up some pics if you like!

Later on i will Manual steering here so no issue with box clearance, starter will be heat wrapped to help prevent heat soaking and the headers have to be modified to make way for the bell crank (column auto) and the trans dip stick (pan fill C4)

T&E tools make the special tools for the caliper pistons. Part numbers are 2021 (suits Falcon XB-X, Fairlane/LTD Holden HJ-HZ and early Commodore) 2022 (suits Falcon XE-XF and Fairlane/LTD) A well equiped tool shop like Total tools sell T&E products. I bought mine off the shelf from a Qualitool in Geelong

Easier than i thought it was haha. The guy the i bought the headers off told me that i'll have to lift the engine up....... yeah so much so LOL. Thanks for the advice fella's Free beers for all (or for those who dont drink beer, rum, jim beam, jack daniels etc)

I'll try and explain the best as i can here: Transmission kickdown happens when trans is "forced" to drop back a gear. Say your going up a hill and you want to pass someone, it drops down a gear when you floor it or when its under a heavy load etc. I use the kickdown rod on my XD. You can run it without i heard that they work ok without them. The kickdown rod is not needed when the auto is fully manualised. If you cant sauce a kickdown rod Lokar make a kickdown cable which will also work fine. If your running a holley carburettor that has the Ford trans kickdown arm fitted, you'll need to fit the spring perch kit. Holley part no. 20-91. If your going from 2 barrel to 4 barrel you will need to extend the kickdown rod. Holley part no 20-41. Or alternatively you can fit a kickdown cable or fit the longer kickdown rod.

Heres a post i put on Facebook last night. Today marks the end of an era, an Australian motoring icon has left its mark and has turned off the great Australian motoring highway and into the history books. Many thanks to the team of men and women at Ford Australia for bringing us a car that was designed, developed and built in our own backyard. Through the years, the ups and downs it has been a great car and one hell of a roller-coaster ride. Thank you Ford Australia, its been Falcon great. #ford #fordfalcon #fordaustralia #itsbeenfalcongreat

I heard that he's abit of an engine guru? Does a lot of vintage karting stuff and Race Car Engineering/Mark Head Engineering or something as well?

Pretty sure Ants did this conversion a few years back with an early XH. You'll need the V8 engine loom, trans and engine mounts. Sub frame/K frame is the same as 6 cylinder and dash loom will need to be changed for a late XH as V8's use a seprate computer to control the transmission (thats IF your going auto, wont need to if your going manual) Apart from that it should be a case of plug "n' play.

WOW!! Major difference there Dean!! I do remember you taking me for a drive in your old ute when you reco'ed those headlights My XH ones need a polish again.

Lightforce also do 210 and 240's. My mate Brandon has 240's on his Landcruiser. I might end up going with 210's possibly at somestage. http://www.lightforceworld.com.au/lightforce-range.html Edit: Link to ECB's site https://www.ecb.com.au/vehicle.php?Make=5&Model=24&variant=6&SEARCH2.x=60&SEARCH2.y=12

I have Lightforce Striker 170's on my XH, they work great for me. Interchangable filters (spot, combo, spread beam etc) with different colors to suit rain, fog, dust etc. Mine are the halogen type, can buy H.I.D versions or even get the conversion kit for them. Expensive new at around $350-$400 bucks. I was lucky and paid $150 for them second hand off Ebay. Mine are mounted to an ECB Nudgebar.

When i rebuilt the engine in my old XF i fitted the hardened distributor gear to use with the Speco cam i fitted. 150,000 kms and 4 years later no issue what so ever

Neoprene so 1 piece rear main seal The cam gear is probably that worn out causing it to eat distributor gears, could also be "walking" inside the cam tunnel.

EF 12 counter weight cranks bolt straight into the 86DA block. 86DA blocks also have a bigger rear main seal and metric flywheel bolts. To my knowledge, the cranks in 86DA blocks are metric but correct me if im wrong.

68 litres

My brothers old ED Fairmont had the 3.27 diff ratio and EllieJanes XG S pac does too, iv found that there is no real difference between 3.23 and 3.27. My XH V8 has the 3.23 ratio as it was originally auto.

Yep, they sit between the glass and channel

Pedal box swap can be done in 15-20 minutes, maybe 30. Can ether unbolt it steering column and let it rest on the drivers seat or take it out completely. You can swap the brake pedals over with the assembely in place but the shaft will need to be tapped out, i havent done that method before though, cant remember how the pedal is held in place. Yep you will need to change the trans cross member to the straight one as the XF T5 cross members are 'bananna' shapped.

Flasher unit by the sounds of it is cactus

SAAS BK132L will work

One thing to remember Nath is to NOT over cam the engine. Yes you may like the lumpy and grumpy ilde but it will also effect the drivabilitly too. With that block i'd tear it down (keeping everything organised of course) send it off to a reptable machine shop and have them sonic check the bores and magnuflux it for cracks along with the heads and may be the intake if you plan on reusing it, plus the crank and con rods for bends, twist and size. If you have access to a quality dial bore gauge (no.1 tool if your serious about engine building) and quailty micrometers (i recommend mitutoyo) you can mesure them yourself along with the crank journals.