wagoon
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Content Count
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Everything posted by wagoon
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ok will have a look for a shop bought oil flush. Thanks for your input
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So have you heard of using straight diesel for engine flush? I was told to use straight diesel by a mechanic years ago so don't know if its still relevant now or not. The idea behind it was that the diesel contains detergents and hydro carbons which helps dislodge the crap, I have used it on quite a few cars and never had dramas but then I have never owned those cars long enough for the dramas to present themselves. Down here people like to drive standard 6 cylinders that have had a little tickle. The cars have the "gt look" suspension and put venetians in the windows. The slower the car and the more standard looking the better, usually with a manual gearbox. This car came as below. Thats the only reason I asked about the anti-pump ups cause the car just seems to fit that scene and the way the car shakes at idle, even looking at the engine at idle it looks like its running rough.
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I am not sure if its one or all lifter, kind of sounds like one thought. I haven't taken anything off the engine, just fixed the stuff required to get regoed. The oil was black so I have changed it for penrite hpr30 and a fresh filter. I have used straight diesel as an oil flush in the past but I care about this engine so I don't know if its a good idea? I like your idea of Cunningham's gap Ando, there are plenty of nice roads around that area to give it a bit of a workout as well. Greg you would be surprised how big they cruising scene is in south east queensland. I know of people building cars just so they could cruise down to the gold coast, pose for a bit and cruise home. These people modify cars without much thought for what is worth while, they just "want to look cool". This wagon had loose exhaust bolts so I'm guessing that it had an exhaust that had been removed and the standard stuff put back on. The way the car drives tells me it is not a standard 200ci, it wouldn't surprise me if its actually a 250 with 3.3 litre stickers all over it.
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That is cool. looks like engine mounts wouldn't last to long
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Surely its not off topic if we are only chatting wait for the news of the awesome break through. Kind of like standing around the pits at a race meet
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Double post bloody phone
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Nah you got it all wrong Rob. Queensland is just like new south wales only better hehe
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You moving up here. Bout bloody time you got some sense
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Agree Ken is still getting on top of his setup so he will crack the tens soon enough. No need for whole sale changes, just easy as she goes. 4 hundredths is a life time in drag racing but that's only when you are at the end of your tether wondering where to go next. LETS GO 10'S
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Putting it on the inside of the door skin also helps to cut noise. Is a pain to get in but can be done in a few pieces
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If you can place a controllable air flow source down the bottom that blows air into the burning material this will allow you to control the heat better, you should also be able to reach the temp faster. Dont try and handle metal at that temp you are going to need something to lift the bellhousing. Also plan where you are going to be doing the welding and preheat the surface as the surface will suck temp out pretty quick. Another thing to be aware of is using oxy on metal that hot may actually change the structure of the metal. Because you are introducing oxygen and fuel under pressure out of the torch you need to make sure you have a neutral flame.
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Just to let you know lime is the best thing to maintain heat when cooling a job, it is not quenching when placing in lime. We have a lime box at work, after working steel which starts at around 1100 degrees C when we finish working the steel its around 750-800ish. If we place it in the lime box the next morning the job will still be over 300 degrees, where as if its just placed on the dirt ( I work in a blacksmith shop with dirt floors) it will be dead cold/room temp the next morning. If you are after a controlled temp drop use lime, a furnace is better though. Our furnaces are turned off at 1200 degrees at home time. The next morning they are still above 500 degrees no matter the outside air temp.
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When grinding to find out what cast it is cast iron has dull red sparks and there arent as many sparks. Cast steel with have the yellow colour sparks as normal steel. You can also look at the shape of the sparks but this is a bit harder to explain here. I agree with pre and post heat. Anything cast needs heat before and heat after working and as Jiminy said say temp for both heats.
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Is it cast iron or cast steel? will make a big difference. Have you thought about using a stick welder with cast electrodes? Well you learn something everyday, just had a read on furnace brazing and it would seem like a good idea for the job. You would need to get your heat right, but because its only brazing you would only need cherry red so 750ish degrees. This should not warp the job BUT if there are stresses in the metal they may come out at even at such a low heat causing distortion. The only other problem I could see is if the bell housing has a few areas of different thickness of material which may cause some distortion due uneven heating. I think the most important factor is finding out if it is actually cast iron or cast steel.
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Is there such a thing as to big a cable for Power and earth cable on a car. I am going to put the battery in the boot and I can get some welding earth leads in pretty good condition. It is 70mm sqaured in size ( around the thickness of a finger), its also gives duty cycle but I didnt think that would matter if using on a car. I also should have enough for all the other earth points in the car. So would using this size cable cause any problems other than adding 20 kilos of weight to the car.
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Is that just to you you feel better?
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Thanks for that.
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Thanks Greg. Yeah duty cycle on the cable says 650Amps@30% 450Amps@60% so would assume around 300Amps@100%. What do you mean by "twin it", is that just run 2 length from the pos terminal on the battery to a single point in the engine bay? Sorry for such a basic question, just want to get terminology correct.
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Unfortunately I think your right. Being over 12 years old and with the number of heat cycles the wheels would have seen it would have weaken the metal especially when it comes to gravel
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+1 on Cam at Engine Engineering. He did my roller cam crossflow including porting head and setup the head. Great guy.
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Very nice pickup. Hopefully it fills the hole left after the other one retired early
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Driver certainly looks comfortable :-) Nice work
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I am not one of these people that have been there and done that. BUT I have done a lot of reading and asked questions until people want to hit me. Every person that has responded so far I have asked questions of and they have been very kind with there time and advise. It has been made perfectly clear that dialing in a cam is as important as correct tension of bolts inside an engine. Even placing the cam dot to dot is like assembling an engine with a rattle gun, it may be close but more than likely its way off. I can't tell you technically why like the others can but I can say that it not good.
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Under load only in my limited knowledge(see above for example) I would be thinking pinging. Does it do it always on any heavy load application ie even on the flat?
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Just what I said only 11ty million times better making far more sense
