matt_lamb_160

Thanks. How does the orientation (of the FG) compare with XF and AU?

EDIT: By orientation I mean the solenoid position

Thanks sly

Hmm,,. From some pics the solenoid looks closer to 9 o'clock on the FG one.

Any ideas to get the solenoid closer to 11 o'clock?

That's an issue I am unaware of BA is shorter than E-series so what was the issue? Yes, a trip to the wreckers would probably work, but I hope someone would know.

Has anyone got good pictures of an AU vs an FG starter motor? I am chasing more clearnce between the exhaust and the solenoid (on a crossflow). I hear that the solenoid position is rotated on the FG, if you know, what direction is it rotated in?

if you are willing to travel to sunbury sharp exhausts (03) 9744 5005...

Did mine today. Looks very good on first inspection

"Torque Inertia" haha. Got to love made up dynamics thought up by people in their shed. There is no way an extension can give more torque unless it is attach to a torque multiplier. If you are jerking on the wrench you will have problems.

E2 is not a Tickford thing. It is just an EFI head.

If the bolts are breaking their is something wrong with them or you are doing the up too tight. It can happen with well lubed bolts as there is less friction and a greater proportion of the torque goes to bolt tension. I have heard of it before with people using ARP lube.

Very hard to tell why this is happening to you, other than the torque wrench is screwed.

Heater tap?

It sounds like fuel, but it does the same with a different carb?

Does the car have an EST ECU? If it does, is it unplugged?

It's a not a crow, it's a dynotec. I'd measure it all up.

It is likely something simpler though.

... And when you use a significant amount of retard through the MSD programable. On there own or with locked timing, no issues.

EST dizzy are out of phase, but only by enough to be an issue when starting with very high comp.

No worse than a stock mani. If you are just changing the carb and the exhaust I would use it. Easy to swap to a Redline when one comes up cheap on eBay.

Good work Sly. Couldn't have written it better.

Agree that a smaller carb could be used for a more commuter friendly engine. Will loose out above 5-5,200rpm, but how often do you use revs above that? But then again a smaller cam will make it more friendly as well.

If you have a big cam the carb might as well match in my opinion.

Good thread!

Should say any carb 570-650, not anything over 570 haha.

If using a dizzy, use a TFI. Easiest way to run it is to remove the module on the side and replace it with an EST plug or connect directly to the prongs. Very easy. A new Bosch coil is fine or get one from MSD.

Any good carb over 570cfm. I would use a nice choke-less 600 DP.

Yep. I intend to make one to cover the manifold.

Have one under it for the engine mount.

Some pipes/hoses still need a tidy up but here it is.

Yep. Those pistons are now seeing boost (just not home to apply it). Still needs an exhaust though.

Agree on replacing the springs if you can't test them yourself.

If you read my post, the emphasis is on checking things and not doing wirk that isn't required. Pretty easy to check valve springs and clearances.

Stock springs will work with the 208deg cam, unless they are screwed. Will rarely see over 4,000rpm anyway. This is a very tame build which will be used for towing.

Stock bottom end will also be fine and won't need balancing. Crank possibly doesn't even need machining. Last 250 I did both the bores and crank were well within spec (likely a low k engine, not sure of its history) and had no appreciable marks.

Easy to get carried away with unnecessary add-ons and it is worth checking things first.

Too much emphasis on "built properly" for an engine that sits at 2,500rpm or less most of the time. It should cost the same to build a lazy daily as a screamer, but it will if you don't know what is ok and what is not.

...

Haven't really read any posts except the top one.

First do not use an OMVL POS converter. If you are using the std. EFI manifold a 225 is plenty (will handle 4,000rpm).

That 218 Camtech is bigger than needed if it will never see 5,000rpm. I think the 208 option or a 725 Tighe is better suited to the EFI manifold (good manifold if you want to tow).

If you want the car to backfire, make the plenum bigger.

If you want to pointlessly kill bottom end for no improvement in top end use a dual pattern cam.

Set your dizzy up for 14-16 deg at idle and 28-30deg total. Will easily handle 11:1. I have ran much more.

No need for gears any shorter than 3.23. Does not suit the manifold or cam I suggested.

If you want to use the 218 cam run a 4brl manifold (any) with a 50&70 (not a 1&20) 300a Impco with an adapter (the taller version) for a 600 baseplate or a 425 Impco. Make sure to run 3.23 gears or shorter. I'd run at least 11.5:1 compression on this setup.

Yep, that was part of the idea. Exhaust will be straighter too.

The turbo is pretty damn low.